Brought my Dad's red 782 home
 

Hello, we recently had to move my dad into a home and we are selling his house. Last Saturday I managed to get his 782 started and loaded on a truck to bring to my house. I have a new MTD Cub (XT3 GS) for mowing my property, but I have fond memories of this 782 so I intend to restore it a little bit at a time and at least use it for plowing duty. It has some issues, like lack of maintenance for the last several years when my dad got sick. This forum is a wealth of knowledge, so I intend to ask some of my stupid questions here. My first goal is to change all the fluids and perform a tune up, but after reading this forum and doing some net research, I see there is multiple versions of the 782 & the KT17 engine.

Here's what my dad has told me about the 782:

It's a 1984 IH built 782 with a KT17 Series 2

Here's what I know:

It's not IH built since it says Cub Cadet, Cleveland Ohio on the left footrest tag. I'll get the serial numbers and post them tonight to try and identify the year it was built. The next step is identifying the engine, I'll try to get some numbers off of it and post them up.

We had a hard time starting it towards the end of last year. We had to put it on a battery charger and he seemed to have the magic touch between the throttle and choke. He told me it needed a new battery and coil. I bought a new battery and ordered a coil from Patton Acres. It still started very hard. It turns over forever and once you start to smell fuel it fires up. This happens on cold starts and warm starts. Could this be the fuel pump?

Another problem is the ignition switch is intermittent, sometimes nothing happens, and sometimes it turns over. I know I have two switches to check, the one under the seat, and the one at the left brake. I was thinking about ordering a new ignition switch and key, but looking at parts tree they list a magneto ignition switch and a battery start ignition switch. How do I tell if it's magneto start or battery start?

Thanks, Joe

This is off the left footrest tag.

Model 145782399
Serial 2050601U738943

Here's the serial number off the engine.

14150635

Any info about this tractor and engine would be appreciated.

This is the number Charlie has on his site for a 5 prong ignition switch for a 782;

925-3021

Look familiar?:bigthink: It doesn't say anything about Magneto vs Battery.

Nice to hear that you got a red one, congrats.
Looking forward to seeing pictures of your Dads now yours tractor.

Thanks!!


I moved it to my garage tonight. It took FOREVER to start. I wore out the battery and had to put the charger on it. After cranking for a while I let go of the key and it sputtered. I cranked for a while again and it came to life. Once it's running it runs great!! Good power, no sputtering or backfiring, it's just a BEAR to start. Could someone point me in the right direction of where to start?

Thank you, it's a bit rough looking but a solid starting point. Can I upload pics to this site or do I have to use a 3rd party host. I gave up on that after photobucket started charging.

:TTWWP:You can upload to the site. Hit the little yellow button over the text you're typing (as I am typing now now) that says INSERT IMAGE... it looks like a mountain against a yellow background.

Nothing wrong with a cub that shows honest wear! I prefer them that way! Congrats on keeping it in the family!
John

Let's see if this works.

I have a 44" deck and a plow. Any advice on the hard starting?

I tried that and it would not work

I have found that if the tractor has sat for awhile, a teaspoon of gas poured into the carb sure helps with starting.

Lets not get in a hurry.
When you are trying to start it, is it getting spark?
Take the plugs out and lay them on the heads and whirl it over.
If if is not getting spark it just might be the ign switch /connecting wires, as you say it is intermittent.
The switch and/or the terminals in the ign switch plug, are known to cause problems.
Check that and report back. :beerchug:

Especially if they look like this...

If they do, you might be able to clean them up well enough to get it working again. You can also pull the connectors out of the socket and clean them up too.:ThumbsUp:

Just tried that and I wasn't getting any spark. However, I was laying it against the shroud, not the bare head. Would that matter? I don't have time tonight to take any of the shrouds off. Thanks for the help!

Thank you, I'll give that a shot after work tomorrow.

You're certainly on the right track to check the spark. Don't be surprised if you eventually have to change the ignition switch, I seem to have terrible luck with them. Once you get it sparking, then you can rule out other things like fuel or even low compression. Get some spark and then report back. If the battery is bad get a new one--strongest thing that will fit. If the plugs look ancient or gunked up, I'd get new ones, only cost about $5-6 for the pair.
Glad you are getting it back going. :beerchug:

Welcome to OCC! I love 82 series cubs, and it looks like the one you have is still in great original shape. I'd take it over that one next to it in a heartbeat :D

Just general background info for you:

You have a MTD built 782. IH stopped (and MTD started) building them in June of 81, so anything after that is MTD. It is almost identical to the IH built ones, except it likely has an aluminum rear end casting instead of a cast iron one that IH ones would have. That's not an awful thing at all, just make sure that the bolts that attach the frame to the rear casting are tight.

Please check out the tech section for the service manuals and operators manuals for it. They will have everything you'll ever need to know about your tractor in them.

The KT-17 II is the better of the two engines that these would have come with, so that's very good. It is a battery/points ignition just like the previous K series cubs. The ignition system is basically the same as those single cylinder ones, except the coil fires 2 plugs instead of 1.

If those are all original hours and the engine hasn't been touched, it's likely that engine is pretty worn out. That's pretty close to the max expected time between overhaul you'd expect out of a K series engine. I'd check compression and see what that looks like. The manual says a 10% difference between cylinders is a problem. It also says under 90PSI is a problem.

The KT-17 (and M18s) do tend to have fuel pump failures. Usually, when they fail, the membrane is what fails and you end up with gas going into your crankcase. This is the most likely fuel-related failure on these (other than the obvious carb problems with a engine that has sat for a while). Check the oil level and see what that looks (and maybe smells like). The fuel pump isn't hard to replace if that's what it is.

Also, listen to ol' George on these things. He's a wealth of knowledge on the Kohler horizontal twins.

Most of all, that tractor looks super well taken care of, considering it's 34 years old. A good bath, some wax, and a new seat and it'd look basically new!

Thank you, the one next to it is a better mower, and it is shaft drive, but it'll stay a mower and cart puller. I'd like to get the 782 in good running condition and use it as a plow tractor, and maybe get a Johnny Bucket for it. There is a label on the dash that says the engine was rebuilt at 1117 hrs in 1995. I'll plug away at it, once running it seems strong. I already ordered a seat.

Thanks, just ordered a switch, I'll pick up some plugs tomorrow.

Nice! Well should have plenty of life left in it still then. Those 782 rear ends are almost indestructible with a factory power plant in them.

Get that engine chooching properly, and plow away!

So I'm doing a lot of reading and figuring out where to get parts if I need them. Where can I get a condenser for the KT17 Series 2? It seems like nobody has them in stock? I found the part # on partstree.

Do you have a good local dealer? If so it wouldn't be a bad thing to get a relationship started there. The old tractor is going to need some parts, and CC still offers a lot of stuff for them.

Joe, welcome to OCC. This is the best place on the net for Cub Cadet info.

That is awesome that you got your dad's 782. I have my dad's 982 and it holds a special place in my heart....and the garage.:biggrin2:

Your tractor was actually the 1318th built in 1985 so it was probably made in January. The engine was built in 1984. Here is a link to the engine manual if you need it. http://www.kohlerengines.com.cn/onli.../tp_2043_a.pdf

The others have gave you some great advice. I would also pull the tunnel cover off and check the driveline for any wear and pull the rear cover off the rear and give it a good cleaning. That paint looks pretty good too and it should buff out to look showroom new.

I'm also liking that XT3 next to it. I have my eye on one if I can work the deal out. Keep feeding us the pics on your progress.:beerchug:

Nice 782. Does it have the IH grille emblem and hood ornament? Those are generally missing on those series. Is the grill in good shape? Good luck getting it running, it will clean up nicely.

Will this work incase the plastic plug for the ignition switch is bad?

http://isavetractors.com/universal-wiring-harness/

Thanks, the grill is really good shape. I don't recall if it has the emblems, I'll look at it tonight.

As I said before, slow down and check things systematically.
The individual female terminal connectors are available as well as just the plug.
it was just posted a week or so ago here, hopefully someone will post the link for you.
Yes that plug and wire whip will work but you might have move the terminals around in the plug to get the colors to match the wiring diagram, just so you know what is going on some time in the future.
Usually the ignition plug has only one or two terminals that arc and that causes the wire ends to loose the spring tension that insures a tight contact.
also the arcing causes the plating on the ignition switch male spade to corrode and rust, making the contact loose it's connection, it is a snowball effect.
so changing the switch and the bad/ corroded terminals in the plug solves the problem for a long time.
Now on the condenser, it would be prudent/thrifty to wait till it is bad before replacing it, many are still working as good as the day they were made, and you state it runs good, once running.:beerchug:

Thank you very much, I appreciate the help George.

Welcome to OCC.

I also have an early 80's CCC built 782 (but it has the cast iron IH rear end; a leftover from the sellout). It has had intermittent switch issues as well. Just saying that to let you know you're not alone.

I'm sad that you're at that stage of life where your dad had to go into a care facility, but glad to hear that you kept the 782. Lots of helpful people here. Don't be like me, if you have a problem or question, try to post a picture or two when asking about it. It makes the answers a lot easier for those trying to help.

Thanks for the info.

Still waiting on the ignition switch. I put a new seat on awhile.

Thanks for everyone's help!! It was the ignition switch. I replaced the switch and the female connector. I installed the plow and chains tonight and cleared the driveway. I couldn't find the lift rod so I had to improvise.

Lift Rod.....No big deal. Here is a sugestion(s).... Lift Rod

Thanks, that's a lot better than chain and bolts.

I sent Jeff in PA a PM but I'm sure someone else know the answer. The factory lift rod for the 782 looks like it has a bend in it. Will a straight adjustable one like Jeff in PA sells clear the frame & side panels on a 782? There's not as much room as the older Cub's.

Now take a pix or two of the cleared drive way and the little red worker that did it.
Take it to Dad @ the care facility, and thank him for it, and the good care he gave to it and how special it is to you.
Old men appreciate that.
and don't forget to give him an extra hug.:beerchug:

PM replied to.

Anyone know if my adjustable lift rod will work on the 782. 28" to 32" adjustment length

Jeff