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My crack is getting bigger
What's a good DC +/- stick electrode (welding rod where I came from) to repair the Cub Cadet 44A deck on my 1250. There's a crack around the bracket for the deck wheel. I'm a "learn as you go" stick welder. The only instruction was high school shop class back in the 70s, but got by at work for the mild steel welding we had to do occasionally. :HeadScratch:
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6011 is a general purpose rod. Use it.
6013 isn't a bad choice either. 7018 is a harder steel rod. Yes, it is multiple position, but it's harder to follow while welding if you are inexperienced. Welding thin metal with a stick welder isn't easy. If you don't do it much, you might make it worse. |
Jon's correct. If you have torches, braising may he the best result.
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Get a piece of 1/8 inch thick copper,,,
clean the non-weld side very good, then clamp the copper to the back side. Here is an example,,, http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/...psc70978d6.jpg With the copper against the back, you can now weld at 30 amps higher current, and get a nice, wide, 100% penetration weld. In the picture, I am adding hard surface to the edge of a tiller tine with stick welding at about 120 amps. Without the copper, the tiller tine would end up being a puddle solidifying on the floor,,, http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0f780313.jpg Normally, it is almost impossible to get the weld metal stick to the copper,, after welding, the copper will just fall away when whatever is holding the copper is removed,,, |
CADplans is correct, copper makes an excellent backer for welding. It will make the repair much easier to do.
It works with stick, mig and tig welding too. |
if you have torches, please don't braze, gas weld it.
Thin metal works well gas welding. It is what we used before we had mig welders.:beerchug: |
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No, he's talking about welding with a torch. Like brazing, only without using brazing rod. You can weld it with the torch only, or add steel if necessary. I've used thin welding rod with the flux chipped off before. (1/16" or 3/32" rod) Can't use too thick a rod, or it will take more heat to melt than the deck metal.
I was also going to suggest that George, but it is hard to do if you don't know how. :bigthink: |
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This film is probably from he 40's or 50's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOucFIZ21sI |
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I agree, it's not really for a novice. It's harder than brazing, yes. No doubt at all, a MIG, or even a TIG, would make this much easier. |
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Re bar tie wire and plain coat hanger(non galvanized) works well for filler wire. And i'm not talking about welding with a cutting torch. A welding torch is used with tips from about 000 to #5 is ideal. Stick welding rod don't work worth a dam as filler rod with a torch. Brazing and silver solder has it's place,I use it, but once a piece of metal is brazed, soft or silver soldered,you will never be able weld it later, as it is in the pores of the metal. Gas welding is ideal on cooling shrouds with vibration cracks or broken mounting tabs on Kohlers ( of course any engine) as an example.:beerchug: You can puddle filler wire in some pretty thin rusted metal, like decks, exhaust pipes/mufflers, etc. If the metal is in good shape, a stick welder is my go-to weapon. Mig/Tig is quick and ok but it can only go so thin on metal, then you blow through. Gas weld you can go real thin once you learn how. Like anything, practice is the key. ( I know Jon knows all this) but some might not, thus I mention it. Just another old skool "tool" in a fellers box. Oh, as an afterthought, larger welding supply shops have actual torch filler rod as well as rods for things like 4130 chromoly steel. |
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When I was working, I got to be pretty good at spray welding. https://i.imgur.com/BmcBe0v.jpg?1 But I don't have access to that equipment now. |
I've burned many a pounds of 6013.... back in a different life... Now its all wire when I have the need...
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