1050 good idea or not
 

Wanted some opinions. I know a couple of you guys have the 1050. I have the opportunity to pick one up at a decent price, everything looks to be there except for some reason the drive shaft is gone and can’t be located. The 3 pin driver and release levers etc are there but disk, plates, drive shaft etc all gone. I looked at the parts breakdown but am worried that it looks specific to this model which was only built in 1989. Should I get it or pass on it? Thanks, Mike

If the price reflects the missing parts and the balance of the tractor is decent, I vote to go get it. You can always part it or resell it if you decide not to mess with it. Seems to me the driveshaft shouldn't be too hard to upgrade to a CV or cushion joint type of driveshaft.

Mike, if the price is decent, pick it up. I'm sure you can use/adapt the older clutches to it. I really like my 1050, but my series of choice is the '82 style tractors, so it fits right in. And... I really like gear drive for garden work. My 1050 is my "go yo" machine for toting a cart, sweeping, plowing, tilling, planting, cultivating and more. I do prefer a hydro for mowing and moving snow though. I added sleeve hitch, creeper, spring assist and narrow front tri-ribs to mine. Soon, the engine will be upgraded to a K321.

Stan, the 1050 is a gear drive. Can't use a CV shaft.

It’s bare bones, no options or anything but barely any rust, everything else is there and side panels, good tires, crappy paint job but over all decent. I was thinking that I could pick up a wide frame clutch/driveshaft asm easier just didn’t know if there was anything special as I see different pieces to this clutch, greasable spacer and throwout bearing plus a weird looking coupler and not familiar with the aluminum gear rear. Didn’t want to reinvent the wheel. It’s $100 so it doesn’t break my rule for non runners but comes close. The M10 feels decent with compression. Thanks for the assist guys.

I would buy it for 100.00, but, not a big smelly but, but there is no way to see if the tranny is any good without the drive shaft.
Does it run? if not...
Then the price is fitty dalla.

All of this talk about buy it, dont buy it a bit subjective since you didn't mention the actual price. What I think it the others here think what a "good" price is cant be measured without seeing what you are seeing. For all I know, you might think $1000 is a good price.

As a note Mike, the aluminum rears are known to have issues with second gear. If you can, see that the rear end is ok. If not, a CI will bolt in, or you can part it. I'm with Lew.... if it doesn't run, missing key parts, I'd get it cheaper.

the coopster needs glasses, just kidding.

My bad.. smacks my wrist.. didn't see that post. Now I say BUY IT!

Everything that's missing is just standard stuff and easy to come by, I have a drive shaft that looks like new that i took out of my 1050, only reason i put the new shaft in mine was because i had already ordered a new one from Jeff before i had it apart.

Jon - still learning the model numbers for gear and hydro. My bad! :HeadScratch:

Mike, we ain't in PA! How many 1050's have you seen down here? Jump on that sucker....you need another project anyhow.:biggrin2:

$100? And you're asking. :bigthink: Come on Mike, that's like, almost free around these parts...:biggrin2:

Try to get it for $50. :Duel:

Thanks for all the responses everyone. I’m going to contact the guy again. He doesn’t know cubs and has it listed as a 74 “club cadet”. I was fully expecting a quiet line or so and when I saw it I almost freaked out that it was an 1806. None the less, it’s pretty cool and I’ve seen some redone ones on here like Tim’s and the new member skippys plus Jon’s worker one and I like the rarity of the one year made part as well.

Mines not painted, it's all original minus the wheels and tires but I have the originals here if I want to put them back on. The 1050 was a bare bones tractor, no amp gauge, no hour meter and no lights but the wires were there for lights to be added. The 1050 has a rubber mounted engine but the mounting system is completely different than all the other rubber mount engine and is much better imho, my 1050 is the smoothest tractor I have besides the 782.

It's still weird to look at the dash on my 1050 cause the only thing it has in it is the throttle and PTO switch.

I had one with a destroyed clutch and trans but had a new replacement motor with 350 hours and a great body. I paid $200 and sold it for $800. I put a cast transaxle, new clutch, headlights and an amp gauge in it. Ran and mowed great but that 44" deck could make that 10hp work in heavy grass. Buy it you can put anything in it. Mike:beerchug:

I had one and I traded it in on my 1572 in 1998. I got $1000 in on trade. It was in great shape. I liked it ok. Mowing with it, 2nd was too slow and 3rd was too fast. Just my experience.

I didn't mow much with mine but I found 2nd gear to be perfect for plowing. Just listen to that aluminum rearend sing.:biggrin2:



https://youtu.be/N7mYoqJfeps

Here's a nice 1050 that's been on Craigslist for a few weeks. I kinda like the look of the solid mesh with no headlights.

https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/gr...655563165.html

So is it a 1050 or a 1806???

Buddy if it were an 1806 I wouldn’t have left without it. 1050 my good man, M10 in it.

BTW didn’t the 1806 come with creeper as standard equipment?

It did. 18 for the hp rating, 06 for the number of gears.

Ain't there 8 gears?

No, silly boy. You don't count the reverse gears. :BlahBlah::biggrin2:


Tim, your 1-5- and mine look almost identical. Tri-ribs on front with fresh paint and the rest of the tractor needing paint, lol. I took the wide lugs off the back of mine, and went to 8.50's. Just haven't upgraded to 8.50 lugs yet.

Where are the pics of it in your driveway Alvy?:WWP:

I like the patina on mine but hate how dull it is so I'm thinking of giving it a light scuff and hit it with one coat of clear.

Well I brought my new to me 1050 roach home yesterday. Ended up working out a deal where I bought some jet ski carburetor rebuild kits for the guy on line in trade for the cub, totaling about $50. Did the usual carb cleaning, pressure washing, troubleshot the no start which was faulty start solenoid and spark plug and the little magnum runs great, no smoke. Also troubleshot the pto not engaging and found the reverse relay coil path open because of the seat switch being unplugged. Odd that these things have a reverse lockout switch in that path too being a manual trans. :bigthink:

Uncle Tim A. Is sending me his old good driveshaft (thanks Tim) and I think I have enough spare parts to piece a clutch together and make something work. It’s missing the implement lift handle for some reason too. Gotta get a battery and replace the iso mounts, and try the oven cleaner deal on this ridiculous paint job. I peeled off the cc logos on the side that were put in the wrong spot and broken anyway and there’s what looks like jd green under the hideous yellow. Oh well, I didn’t go wrong with this one I don’t think and I like the rarity of it too.

I fixed up a 1204 a while back and sold it to a guy at work. This model reminds me of it but I like the heavier duty trans instead of the peerless belt drive one that the 1204 has. I gotta say the peerless in that one has 2,000 plus hours on it and is still doing well.

Anyway, here it is in all its glory. Oh, and it was only ten minutes away!

Attachment 95596

ALVY! Your on a roll this week. Nice pick up!

Only one picture? come on! but we have a handle for you too!

Thanks Coop. I have a really hard time not picking them up if they’re in my county.


Buddy I’m embarrassed to admit but I have no idea how to load more than one pic in the post when it comes off my I phone. I’ll get more and try to figure it out but it’s nothing to write home about. I need to call you soon it’s been a while.

Any more pictures?

Looks good to me Alvy. Yes, we will need more pics.:beerchug:

The three pin driver for that tractor has a ball bushing in the middle, not sure which other models had it. The iso mounts are different then all the other Cub's.

Ok. 3 pin driver is there so I will check. I do see the different mounting plate. Might just have to order the ISO’s.

Any headlights?

Congrats on your new ugly !:beerchug:

They're no longer available. What makes you think they're bad?

The engine along with the plate moves a huge amount on the right side and it’s riding on the frame. Plate to pan is loose. I’ll figure something out, maybe use a sway bar kit or something. Should have said that earlier, noticed it at the end when I was wrapping up tonight.

I just checked parts tree and now they have a listing for them, surprisingly they're only $2.05 each.

https://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-...gine-mounting/