1863. Kohler CH18 throttle issues.
 

Hi everyone this is my first post.

I completely rebuilt and restored my '92 1863, along with a fully rebuilt kohler CH18-62509

I've got an issue however, my throttle control is funky. Holds itself at full throttle, doesnt want to idle down. New governor gear was installed internally. I'm lost now. I've tried every adjustment possible.

I will attach some pictures to maybe aid in my diagnosis.

Thank you,
Patrick

Either you hooked up the linkage incorrectly, or it is not adjusted correctly. Not a hard problem to fix. Look at the linkage, figure it out and fix it.

Hey Patrick!
Welcome to OCC
A couple pics would be good. You might just have the sensitivity set wrong. Lets see a couple pics

The governor's sensitivity adjustmentwon't keep it from idling down. The throttle set up will.

Just figured spring could be pulling all the time if it were positioned incorrectly.

If the throttle isn't set right, yes..... but the sensitivity position is irrelevant.

Did you adjust the governor to spec?

Who installed the gear?

There should be a picture here. I tried adding it as an attachment. Let's see if this works.

Yep. That's a pic of the throttle and choke linkage/mechanism.

You didn't answer the questions though: Did you properly set the governor shaft?
If not, you need to do that.
I keep my original opinion that you don't have the throttle linkage adjusted correctly.
And yes.... the governor spring is set too sensitive. While that is not the issue, it's too far back on the governor arm. Third hole from the end if memory serves, but you need to check the manual. Move it to that spot BEFORE you calibrate the linkage.... but after setting the governor shaft if you didn't do that.

Yes governor shaft is set per the manual specs. Loosen nut. Set throttle to full throttle. Hold governor arm as far towards the carb as it will go. Turn shaft as far counter clockwise as it will go. Tighten nut.

So yes all of that has been done and checked. All is good there.











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Yes governor shaft is adjusted following the manuals directions.

Then move the spring to the correct hole, and adjust the cable so it will idle. If it still wont' idle, is the idle stop screw holding it from doing so?? Is the low speed setting on the carb correct? When you move the throttle to the lowest position when the engine is off, it should close the throttle plate to the idle stop screw. If it doesn't adjust it so it does. Basic stuff man.... basic.

Its been a few years but i remember on mine when i went by the manual it did the same thing your describing. Try turning the governer shaft back some from specs and then tighten nut.

No. Do NOT do that. If you had to do that to yours, it was because the throttle linkage was not correctly adjusted. :bash2:

Moving the lever away from the flyweights on the governor, limits its full travel distance, thus limiting the governors ability to do its job. Guys, come on. Things have to be set right. You can't just guess. Figure out the problem and FIX IT.

Everything seems to be correct and I dont know what other adjustments I can do. So what is your suggestion other then just "figure it out"? Not trying to be a dick I'm just stumped here. I rebuilt the entire motor and it runs awesome, I dont see any adjustments to the linkage. The rod clicks into the carb and into the control bracket. So if I'm missing something tell me.

[QUOTE=LongPatrick;466420]Something definitely looks wrong. The inner part on the cable looks to be touching part of the throttle linkage. That's a sign that something is in the wrong spot. They are never set up to rub each other and effect the movement.

I had the same problem on my 2185 after doing some carb work, way back when I first got it 4 years ago. As I recall, I just had to loosen the cable clamp and let some slack out. I had 1st adjusted it at either WOT or closed which somehow limited travel. Now it is adjusted by mid-throttle on the dash, giving a little extra travel at both ends.


Anyway, I went out and looked at my 2185 and then looked up the picture which is attached from:

http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/...ment-guide.pdf

I think you need a cable adjustment, mine is very close to the picture from the pdf and runs properly, your the throttle lever is turned quite far to the right.

ETA: I found that outmost hole on the throttle lever gave the best travel at the instrument panel, and that 3rd hole from the end on the sensitivity cured the governor surging.

I just went out and looked at my 18 command and when it is at idle with the choke not pulled the cable attachment arms should be almost stacked on top one another. :bigthink:

This what mine looks with throttle setting at idle.

I'm sure you aren't trying to be a dick. I just don't understand how you could take the engine apart and rebuild it, but get stuck on throttle lever adjustment. So.... I guess we'll go through all of it.


In the pic below, lets start with the red arrow.
The lever the red arrow is pointing to is the governor control arm, and the holes in it is how you set the sensitivity of the governor. You have it in the most sensitive position. You don't want it there. If that's where is was, it was wrong. You need to move it out to the third hole from the end. Possible the 4th hole. I'm sure the manual states where CC recommends it. Personally, I set it where it needs to be based on how the governor responds. But the 3rd hole is generally where it goes. Move it there as a first adjustment.

Moving to the green arrow.
The lever the green arrow points to is the throttle lever that is attached to the throttle cable. There are several holes in this lever. You will need to move the spring to a hole that will allow the most consistent travel on the dash throttle lever. You want the dash lever to travel the full distance, and it make throttle adjustments throughout the range. No dead spots. This will be a trial and error.

The blue arrow.
The lever the blue arrow is pointing to is the other end of the lever the green arrow is pointing to. There are 3 holes in this end, and again, the cable can be connected to any of the three depending on dash lever configuration. You have it in the inner most hole, and that likely is fine. But depending on dash lever travel, you may need to move it. The holes in this lever, and the holes in the green lever are both trial and error and can be used in conjunction to get the desired throttle travel. Remember, this engine was designed to be used in multiple configurations, not just in a Cub Cadet. Thus the need for many possible set ups.

The purple arrow points to the bolt that holds the cable down. You may actually have to loosen this bolt and move the cable in or out to get the lever to go to the highest/lowest setting. If the dash lever stops before you reach the top, but yet when it goes to the lowest setting doesn't fully slow down the engine, you may need to move the clamp position of the cable. The manual covers this.

The link that "nophun" posted is a good manual to use. While it doesn't cover all the aspects I did, it does go over some of it. Read the section on your engine.

Now.... on that mechanism in question, there should be a high idle stop screw adjustment. Now that you have had all this apart, you need to make sure that the engine is indeed reaching 3600 RPM. It may now be above, or below that mark. Just part of taking things all apart. You will need to check the high idle, no load speed with a tachometer. I cannot remember where the low speed stop screw is, but I thought it was on the carb. You may need to also adjust this. Surely, you know where it is or can find it. Make sure to properly tune the carb now that you have "overhauled" the engine, and had all this apart. Adjustments need to change. Make sure to err on the side of rich.

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