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-   -   CCC built 82 series Kohler swap (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=53441)

Mudrig150 09-25-2018 09:54 AM

CCC built 82 series Kohler swap
 
Planning on finding a hydro lift CCC built or IH built 82 series roller and swapping a 14 horse into it from a 1450. Engine's missing a few parts, but I can find them pretty easy. How hard would it be to swap it in? I already know I would need the cradle, but would a 1650 engine cradle work? Also planning on putting in power steering.

Heh, imagine a 1711 or something along those lines with a 1450 engine in it!

olds45512 09-25-2018 11:21 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Everything should bolt right in with the mounts from a 1650, you are basically making a 1211 or 1282 but with a 14hp. I have a parts 1282 sitting out back with the engine cradle still in it if you're interested, the 1282 came from the factory with the cradle mod already done. The 1211 is the same as a 1711 but with a 12hp magnum, here's my 1211 playing tow truck.

Gompers 09-26-2018 01:03 PM

Pulley on the PTO will be the wrong size.

Not sure what all that will affect.

J-Mech 09-26-2018 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gompers (Post 467547)
Pulley on the PTO will be the wrong size.

Not sure what all that will affect.

Pretty sure the PTO on a KT/Mag will bolt right on a K.

Mudrig150 09-26-2018 01:53 PM

The engine I'm putting on has the PTO on it. It's missing most of the parts, (Muffler elbow, coil, carb, etc.) But I guess I'll see if it works when I get there.

Mudrig150 09-26-2018 01:59 PM

Man, people here in PA are insane! Guy sends me a personal message through facebook offering me a 1711 with no engine and he wants 525$ for it! Is this guy insane??? He claims it has a new dash (which apparently warrants the price?) but looking at it it looks terrible. It's not a stock dash, it's like a 1050 dash with the hole for the hydro handle drilled into it. Still, 525$??

olds45512 09-26-2018 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudrig150 (Post 467553)
Man, people here in PA are insane! Guy sends me a personal message through facebook offering me a 1711 with no engine and he wants 525$ for it! Is this guy insane??? He claims it has a new dash (which apparently warrants the price?) but looking at it it looks terrible. It's not a stock dash, it's like a 1050 dash with the hole for the hydro handle drilled into it. Still, 525$??

I have a 1282 you can come pick up for $100 wtih no engine but it's already got the mounting for a single cylinder.

Gompers 09-26-2018 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 467549)
Pretty sure the PTO on a KT/Mag will bolt right on a K.

I think so too, but I've never done it. But if he's got a roller, he probably doesn't have a Mag/KT/spread frame K series PTO to go with it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudrig150 (Post 467551)
The engine I'm putting on has the PTO on it. It's missing most of the parts, (Muffler elbow, coil, carb, etc.) But I guess I'll see if it works when I get there.

You've got a quietline PTO on it. The 82 series PTO is a bigger pulley (same diameter, but 5/8" instead of 1/2"). Not a huge deal, but the spread frame mule drive is going to have 5/8" pulleys and so would an 82 series implement (snowthrower, deck, tiller etc). You can swap the pulleys around to 1/2" (or just run a 1/2" belt on it...it'd probably work ok-ish).

J-Mech 09-26-2018 03:46 PM

Easier to change 1 PTO than 3 other pulleys.
No, you can't run a 1/2" belt in a 5/8" pulley. It will most definitely slip. You'd have better luck with a 5/8" belt in the 1/2" PTO.

Gompers 09-26-2018 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 467567)
Easier to change 1 PTO than 3 other pulleys.
No, you can't run a 1/2" belt in a 5/8" pulley. It will most definitely slip. You'd have better luck with a 5/8" belt in the 1/2" PTO.

Yup agreed. The proper thing to do is a 5/8" PTO pulley and be done with it.

olds45512 10-01-2018 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512 (Post 467555)
I have a 1282 you can come pick up for $100 wtih no engine but it's already got the mounting for a single cylinder.

So I'm guessing you're not interested?

Mudrig150 10-01-2018 08:49 AM

Sorry, I hadn't seen your reply about it.

I might buy it. I've been asking around for a while trying to find a tractor, it'll be perfect, easy swap. If I do buy it it'll get a hydraulic lift and a few other misc. things. Do you have any pics of it?

Mudrig150 10-01-2018 10:39 AM

My plan for a CV driveshaft swap into the future roller: Take a driveshaft from a 318 onan and buy two engine side yokes, make the bolt holes fit and use it to eliminate the flex coupling by bolting it straight up to the stock driveshaft couplings. This, I hope, will also eliminate the problem of the flex couplings getting warped, causing vibrations, like on my 1250. I might have to modify the yoke ends to bolt up, and shorten the driveshaft, but it'll be so nice.

Hopefully it'll go as planned.

Gompers 10-01-2018 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudrig150 (Post 468019)
My plan for a CV driveshaft swap into the future roller: Take a driveshaft from a 318 onan and buy two engine side yokes, make the bolt holes fit and use it to eliminate the flex coupling by bolting it straight up to the stock driveshaft couplings. This, I hope, will also eliminate the problem of the flex couplings getting warped, causing vibrations, like on my 1250. I might have to modify the yoke ends to bolt up, and shorten the driveshaft, but it'll be so nice.

Hopefully it'll go as planned.

Seems like a lot of work for something that really isn’t a problem with good components. But you do you.

Mudrig150 10-01-2018 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gompers (Post 468028)
Seems like a lot of work for something that really isn’t a problem with good components. But you do you.

I'm mainly doing it to allow for more engine movement and to allow for more flexibility if I want to swap in something bigger. Also it'll be way easier pulling the engine of transmission, and I won't have to worry about roll pins breaking or the whole driveshaft destroying the hydro lift..

Leadslingingdaddy 10-01-2018 12:14 PM

Your NOT doing it yet.... you're maybe, might, hopefully planning on doing it... In my day that's called daydreaming

Mudrig150 10-01-2018 12:17 PM

It's in the works. How am I supposed to work on something I don't even have yet?

Edit: Looking back, you guys mentioned that the Pto is different. If it's a 1282 would the whole PTO or just the pulley be different? If it's just the pulley, could you swap them? I don't see why not.

olds45512 10-01-2018 12:28 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Here's a pic of the 1282. I have the tunnel cover for it and the plate the seat bolts to, I don't have side panels.

Mudrig150 10-01-2018 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512 (Post 468047)
Here's a pic of the 1282. I have the tunnel cover for it and the plate the seat bolts to, I don't have side panels.

That'll be fine, I can't use them anyway with the exhaust I have for the 14 hp.

Does it have a grille or headlight panel?

olds45512 10-01-2018 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudrig150 (Post 468048)
That'll be fine, I can't use them anyway with the exhaust I have for the 14 hp.

Does it have a grille or headlight panel?

I have a grille but no headlight panel.

Gompers 10-01-2018 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudrig150 (Post 468036)
I'm mainly doing it to allow for more engine movement and to allow for more flexibility if I want to swap in something bigger. Also it'll be way easier pulling the engine of transmission, and I won't have to worry about roll pins breaking or the whole driveshaft destroying the hydro lift..

IH put a 20hp engine in there with rag joints. It’ll be fine if you use good parts. Especially with a 12hp up there

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudrig150 (Post 468041)
It's in the works. How am I supposed to work on something I don't even have yet?

Edit: Looking back, you guys mentioned that the Pto is different. If it's a 1282 would the whole PTO or just the pulley be different? If it's just the pulley, could you swap them? I don't see why not.

It’s probably just the pulley. I don’t know. Haven’t done one.

Mudrig150 10-01-2018 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gompers (Post 468057)
IH put a 20hp engine in there with rag joints. It’ll be fine if you use good parts. Especially with a 12hp up there



It’s probably just the pulley. I don’t know. Haven’t done one.

Seems like the whole PTO is different. They do look like a bolt-up connection which will be nice.

Mudrig150 10-01-2018 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512 (Post 468056)
I have a grille but no headlight panel.

That's fine by me, the headlight panel is for sure way easier to find than the grille. Do you have both parts of the grille?

olds45512 10-01-2018 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudrig150 (Post 468063)
That's fine by me, the headlight panel is for sure way easier to find than the grille. Do you have both parts of the grille?

Not sure what you mean. There's a lower grille which I have and the upper grille which is the headlight panel which I do not have.

Mudrig150 10-01-2018 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512 (Post 468064)
Not sure what you mean. There's a lower grille which I have and the upper grille which is the headlight panel which I do not have.

I thought there was a mesh part and the bar part of the grille? All the part diagrams list the grille as two separate parts not counting the headlight panel.
https://polr.partstree.com/v1/iplima...O2k6MTAwMDt9fQ

olds45512 10-01-2018 01:43 PM

I have never seen a tractor with that mesh part so I don't have it.

Mudrig150 10-01-2018 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512 (Post 468066)
I have never seen a tractor with that mesh part so I don't have it.

Fine by me.

Edit: Me, being an idiot just realized that to do the hydro lift swap I'll need to swap the dash, add that to the list of parts...

Gompers 10-01-2018 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudrig150 (Post 468065)
I thought there was a mesh part and the bar part of the grille? All the part diagrams list the grille as two separate parts not counting the headlight panel.
https://polr.partstree.com/v1/iplima...O2k6MTAwMDt9fQ

That mesh part was removed on later tractors and was only on very early 82 series tractors. It ended up getting plugged a lot and causing overheating so ih came out with a grille improvement package that replaced the insert and screen with a different insert that had additional black bars in it.

Mudrig150 10-01-2018 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gompers (Post 468070)
That mesh part was removed on later tractors and was only on very early 82 series tractors. It ended up getting plugged a lot and causing overheating so ih came out with a grille improvement package that replaced the insert and screen with a different insert that had additional black bars in it.

Oh, that makes sense. Well I'll be fine anyways.

olds45512 10-01-2018 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudrig150 (Post 468067)
Fine by me.

Edit: Me, being an idiot just realized that to do the hydro lift swap I'll need to swap the dash, add that to the list of parts...

You don't need to switch the dash. The metal part already has the hole for the lever so all you need to do is cut the hole in the plastic part which is easy to do it you trace the hole off the metal part.

Mudrig150 10-01-2018 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512 (Post 468073)
You don't need to switch the dash. The metal part already has the hole for the lever so all you need to do is cut the hole in the plastic part which is easy to do it you trace the hole off the metal part.

Well that's a bit easier than trying to find a dash, another question:
A cast iron rear end will bolt in and work with the 82 series hydraulic lift, right? Don't the ports have the same location and size?

J-Mech 10-01-2018 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudrig150 (Post 468019)
My plan for a CV driveshaft swap into the future roller: Take a driveshaft from a 318 onan and buy two engine side yokes, make the bolt holes fit and use it to eliminate the flex coupling by bolting it straight up to the stock driveshaft couplings. This, I hope, will also eliminate the problem of the flex couplings getting warped, causing vibrations, like on my 1250. I might have to modify the yoke ends to bolt up, and shorten the driveshaft

Kid, you can't buy just an end yoke for a 318 driveshaft. The shaft is some oddball thing Deere has made. Believe me, I've been all through this. Plus, the engine yoke won't hook up to the hydro. Second off all, the Deere shaft is a u-joint shaft and not a CV shaft, and third, it has no telescope built into it. In reality, you would have to build up a u-joint shaft, then an engine adapter, then a trans adapter and you would end up with a $400 shaft in a $500 tractor. You have no idea what you are getting into trying that.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudrig150 (Post 468041)
It's in the works. How am I supposed to work on something I don't even have yet?

That's exactly the point Randy was making. You're daydreaming..... aren't you in school? Focus on your schooling and think about tractors later.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudrig150 (Post 468041)
Looking back, you guys mentioned that the Pto is different. If it's a 1282 would the whole PTO or just the pulley be different? If it's just the pulley, could you swap them? I don't see why not.

If you found the correct PTO (as in both the same brand) I suppose you could just swap the pulley, but why? Just swap the whole thing. It's not fussy.


On the side panel/exhaust issue, if the engine came from a 1450 it would have front discharge exhaust, so you could run the side panels.

J-Mech 10-01-2018 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudrig150 (Post 468075)
Well that's a bit easier than trying to find a dash, another question:
A cast iron rear end will bolt in and work with the 82 series hydraulic lift, right? Don't the ports have the same location and size?

Yes, you can swap rears, but you better focus on getting a tractor first. You are still daydreaming.

ol'George 10-01-2018 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudrig150 (Post 468065)
I thought there was a mesh part and the bar part of the grille? All the part diagrams list the grille as two separate parts not counting the headlight panel.
https://polr.partstree.com/v1/iplima...O2k6MTAwMDt9fQ

If your referring to screen #5, on the early 82 series back in the day, there was a TSB to remove it as it built up with chaff and created an overheating problem.
I have one here somewhere and no, it ain't for sale.
IIRR it was attached to the grill with rivets, and they provided a new grill made without it, but it has been a couple of years ago.


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