New to all this!
 

I have a 100 that has been sitting for about 2 years. As with all vehicles, "it ran when I removed the battery" and walked away. What is the best approach for getting it back running? Thanks

Welcome to OCC!

After 2 years ya got some work ahead of ya.
1. clean out entire fuel system
2. Make sure no critters got into your engine tins or wiring.
3. Check or change all the old oils and fluids.
4. get a fresh battery..

After that you can try and crank her over without doing any damage.

Let us know if ya hit any pitfalls. Here to help if needed.

Should I drain and clean out the fuel tank? What would you recommend for cleaning out the tank?

Yes. Absolutely. Also lines, carb etc. Especially if gas was left in it. Entire fuel system

What Coop said!

By the way, pictures are GREAT

Here's what I'm working with. I was thinking of selling but I guess I'll try to get it running.

Looks like a nice tractor. I bet it wont be much trouble to get going. Make sure your clutch is not stuck.

And your PTO to the deck...

Nice tractor. It looks real good!

I like to add a little oil to cylinder thru spark plugs hole if the engine has been sitting a long time.

Looks real good boulder.

Hey Allen it looks like you’re old dually! Always love the old diamond tread tires too!

Boulder, that one is definitely worth getting running again.

Remove the tank, pour some gas in it, swish it around, pour it out. Inspect the interior. If it's reasonably clean, put it back on, if not, some nuts and bolts and some kerosene shaken inside may help dislodge some rust.

Replace the fuel line, rebuild the carb, replace the spark plug, clean and adjust the points (start at .020 in) replace the battery and crank 'er up!

^^^What he said :IH Trusted Hand:

So the carb is a Carter. Are there rebuild kits available? If not any recommendations on a replacement carb?
Thanks

Forget the new imitation carbs from China.
Kits for that carb are readily available, be sure to check the throttle shaft for slop within the casting, they can be bushed.

There are some here that say dont buy the china carbs.. On the other hand you will find many that use them with great success.

Neither way is right or wrong. Your tractor, your money. I personally have had good luck with several china carbs and good luck with rebuild kits. With that said, Here is one found on amazon for the k241

This is a kit. You can get just the carb for about 15$

https://www.amazon.com/Cnfaner-Carbu...rburetor&psc=1

Carb only,
https://www.amazon.com/GooDeal-Carbu...70_&dpSrc=srch

Thanks for the info. Do you know where the kit would be available?

Thanks for the info. Are you saying this carb is a K241 that is on my 100?

The engine is a Kohler K241

The carb kit is part number Cub Cadet KH-25-757-01

Here is the Kohler engines manual. If your going to rebuild carb have a look at this.

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ead.php?t=4646

Just saying,,, that cinder block is on the weak side turn it 90 degrees to the strong side. They aren't meant to hold weight on the side and can collapse without warning.

Normally I'd agree with this but being as how the weight is on the end of the cinder block right on top of the end wall I don't think time would matter if it were turned 90*. If the weight was in between the ribs, where the center was open, it would matter more.

Thanks for the heads up, just resting on it to keep pressure off tires. And as stated it is on the end of the block. Thanks

That is in REALLY nice shape!

I bought a kit for a K301 carb. I am not a novice at rebuilding these things but it ran as bad after the kit as it did before. Had the carb off and apart, re-cleaned and inspected prolly a half dozen times with never any change or improvement. In the mean time I placed an order with wun hung Lo for a clone carb that cost only the same as the kit I bought for it. China carb arrived and right out of the box made the motor run like brand new. I have since purchased 3 more of these carbs for other projects and have had no problems.

Everyone is entitled to their own opinion, mine is that I'll never rebuild one of these carbs again as long as a new carb is available as cheap as a rebuild kit.

What he said, have replaced 2 after rebuilding the old ones. The old ones are on the shelf now. Wish I had bought the yang ones before wasting money on the old ones.

The Chinese carb I got for my 129 has been working good. I had to adjust it even though it was supposed to be set and tested, but other than that I'm happy with it. I was only going to use it until I rebuilt the original, but as long as it keeps working good, I'll keep it on.

Theoretically you should always need to adjust any new carb China made or not. Impossible for them to already be tuned to exactly how your engine is running. They should however come preset enough to start and idle as long as theres no other running issues.

It said it was tested, but I didn't really believe it. It ran, but not very good.

I've been hesitant to try the new Chinesium carburetors. Though, from what you guys are saying, I should embrace them. I have one of them on the shelf that I bought off ebay last year for more like $50, but I've got 4 or 5 original spares that I rebuild and rotate, so I have never found myself needing a "new" carb. I just ordered a couple more tonight, after seeing the links, at less than $15 how can you go wrong??

I do have a 1250 that seems to be a bit finicky on carb adjustments, so I might try that one with a new carb. The rest of the fleet run pretty well on their original carbs. I do have three engines waiting to be rebuilt, two K241s and a K301. Will get to them this winter, or at least a couple of them. One does not have a carb.

So, when you use one of these replacement carbs are you able to reuse the "hard" fuel line or do you replace with a rubber one? Thanks

Yes you just have to remove the threaded 90 from your original carb and put on the new one. Check to make sure the bushings don’t leak

Where would you look for a voltage regulator and coil for 100?

I like DB electric for that stuff..
They have the VR and the coil. They offer a Kohler new coil and an after market but the Kohler is only like 2$ more

https://www.dbelectrical.com/?adpos=...SAAEgK9WPD_BwE

Thanks for the info. Can someone please tell me what the "button" is for on the points cover? Thanks

Well on the smaller kohler single cylinders, it is a "stop" button.
(It grounds the points with a magneto ignition system)

Thanks for the info.

In one of the above replies it is suggested that I put oil down the spark plug hole.
What type of oil would one use? Thanks

The spark plug hole is actually over the valves on that engine. Not the cylinder. Rather then putting oil in the plug hole I like to check that the valves are free. You can do this from the side of the engine by taking off the valve cover. Then rotate the engine to make sure the valves are free.
PS. When you have it apart its a good time to clean the breather. Just make sure you note the orientation of the parts you take out so they go back in the same way.. Its really pretty simple tho.

Thanks for the reply and the diagram. I'll give it a try.

So I brought the 100 home from the farm today. Plans are to drain fuel system, replace carb, etc. Questions...Does the glass bowl unscrew from the top plate?
Does the whole "bowl" mechanism unscrew from the fuel tank. Figure I best ask so as not to screw something up.
Thanks

So your sediment bowl should resemble this one.. The glass bowl is held on by pressure only from clasp and bottom screw. The assembly does thread into tank.