Echo PB-265L Leaf Blower (I know not a cub, but need some thoughts)
 

I have rebuilt, fixed etc many small engines, outboards and automobile engines. Fathers church has an Echo PB-265L back pack leaf blower and asked if I would take a look at it. They said they couldn't get it started. I said sure.

Blower is in really good shape, I have taken a first and what I consider very thorough stab at it and I am kind of scratching my head now.

Usually its the carb, looked it up and it was $16.00 for a new carb, air cleaner, fuel lines and fuel filter, so I bought that and just replaced it all.

1.) Confirmed I have spark
2.) Confirmed I have fuel to the cylinder
3.) Confirmed not sucking air
4.) Cleaned the Spark Arestor
5.) Compression test came in at 120, plenty to run
6.) When I replaced the carb, I drained the tank and added fresh fuel


Still NOTHING when you pull it over, its as if the kill switch was bad, BUT I have spark. I tested the switch and current moves through it, also confirmed spark when it is on and no spark when the kill switch is engaged.

I have no wire issues either. Maybe the spark is too weak? I shot some started fluid in the cylinder and it wont kick over.

I am at a complete loss with this one. Any recommendations or direction would be greatly appreciated. There honeslty isn't really much more I can do to it, it is pretty simplistic. I have attached the link to the manuals and parts catalog for those that are curious.

https://www.echo-usa.com/Support-Hel...20265L&c=en-us

Do you know FOR SURE the crankcase is not flooded with gas??

I know you said you cleaned the spark arrester but did you take the muffler off and check/clean the exhaust port out as it may be completely clogged with the coke/carbon and not be able to breathe out. Have had this a few times.

Put in a NEW spark plug. Like was asked, you sure the crankcase isn't full of fuel? When you put in a new, dry plug--don't choke it or give any throttle, see if fuel gets on the plug. Also did you drain the tank? Dad retired from an Echo (among a little of everything else) dealer. They had everything in the world dumped in 2 cycle fuel tanks---straight gas, water, kerosene, diesel, brick acid. Yeah the brick acid is true--guy got pissed because he sucked so much in the engine it corroded it and they refused to fix it. He couldn't understand why.

Yes, tank has been drained and I added the proper 50:1 mixed gas. I did put a new plug, also tried another new plug. Both were wet when I pulled them after trying to start it.


How would I determine the crank case is "full"? Pull the plug and turn it upside down or complete tear down? Assume complete tear down.

I did not pull the muffler, but can easily do that and try. I will get back to you on that one.

Well, take the plug out and let it sit for a day, maybe turn the engine where the piston is at the top and sit it with the muffler down, it may run by the piston and out on the floor (may want to sit it in a catch pan).

Or, don't choke it or give it any throttle. Pull on the recoil a few times then see if the plug is wet. If it is, rotate out a dry plug. Continue doing this until the plug no longer gets wet, it cranks, your arm hurts too much, or you break the rope--I've personally done all 4.

Won't hurt to pull it several times with the plug out either to dry it out--leave the switch OFF so you don't ignite the vapors--got to be careful with them, you can ignite them by accident---that'll mess your shorts up!:bigeyes:

I removed the muffler, it is clear. No clog. But to the other comment below, I think the comment of a flooded crank case is correct. See the video.

John, Check out the video link and let me know your thoughts. I am pretty sure that thing is flooded.

https://youtu.be/PFn_PSXZyE0

Got to be flooded. Unless you need it right away, leave the plug out, piston up and exhaust port down so maybe the fluid will drip out--and call it a day. When it looks dried out, don't choke or give throttle until you know the plug is staying dry.

With spark, fuel and compression all there ......just wondering if the timing got out of whack?

Is possible with a blower?

Thanks! I don't need it right away, never dealt with a flooded crank case before where it is too wet to ignite. Its already on its side, exhaust port down, and plug out. I will let it sit till its bone dry.

Thanks for the help guys.

I've taken the spark plug out and used my lit propane torch pointed in the plug hole and pulled the starter rope.
It will suck the flame out sometimes but just re light, it will "burp" a few times
usually clearing the cylinder as well as the crankcase of fuel.

Also check for mud dauber clay, plugging the little exhaust hole in the muffler.
Every year they plug several of my weed wackers as well as the leaf blowers.
:beerchug:
They will also get into some air cleaners, even carb vent holes.
On a two smoke, they will absolutely not even "pop" much less run, with the exhaust plugged.

Something I didn’t realize until this year when I bought my new Echo blower is these things want higher octane fuel. I went back and checked the manual on my Husqvarna weed eater and it said the same thing, at least 89 octane.

I had the same thing happen last summer. Turned out the screws holding the cylinder to the crankcase were very loose. Crankcase would not develop vacuum to suck in fuel. Tightened them up and it ran like new.

Any chance the flywheel has sheared the key and it's out of time? :bigthink:

Well, put it back together after breathing for over a week. couldn't get it going again, took it back apart again and let it breath for another week or so. Sprayed a bit of starter fluid into the cylinder and still absolutely nothing.


Thinking I am going to pull the motor off to see if the clearance has issues or somehow the timing is off.

Was the plug wet with fuel after your first attempt at cranking? If so, adding starting fluid to the situation wasn't going to help.

Nothing wrong with checking the timing.

How strong is the spark? do you have one of those gizmos you plug "in line" to check for spark? If not, do you have an old plug you could sacrifice? If so set the gap on it BIG, talking 1/8" or more. Rule of thumb when I rebuild magnetos is they must fire a 1/4" gap, yeah you are working on a little engine but the concept is the same.

John,

I can see spark but I am thinking it may be weak. I was going to pull the engine to get at the ignition on the flywheel to see if it was rusted on the magnet making a poor connection. I do have another spark plug that I can sacrafice I will try that.

The plug looked a little wet nothing like it was in the past. I then dried it off and tried the starter fluid and nothing.

I even hooked a drill up to the pull start and cranked it probably 100 times and nothing.

The drill motor on the flywheel nut with socket is a trick I use.
While it is whirling over stick the lit propane torch in the plug hole to burn any accumulated fuel out of the crankcase/cyl.
Again,
is the exhaust clear?? they will not even put, much less run with it clogged.

George see my post #3 and his reply #8

Would it hurt to see if the engine will hit (don't run it) with the muffler off? Can't say I've ever tried such, but have seen the "spark arrestor" screen in older machines plug up as well as 3-4 times encountered dirt dobbers building a nest in the muffler.

It’s not a bad idea John but I believe the echo has the spark arrester screen screwed right on to the outlet of the muffler and would be obvious to see if clogged but hey I’ll believe anything as I see weird results and symptoms of no starts every day.

Exhaust is wide open like a strippers legs on pay day. Including the arestor.

The arrester is not attached, I took it off, it was a little rusty but open and I cleaned it up with a wire brush.

Exhaust port is wide open and clean, it is the in the video clip I attached in a previous reply.

Yes I saw this reply much earlier in the thread? I was responding to John halls idea that it might be a clogged muffler stating that you already answered that as well....

How are you checking spark, plug removed from the head and laying it on the motor, or is it not.

A big 10-4 on wide open :biggrin2: :biggrin2:

So it has spark, fuel, air, and the exhaust is not plugged--correct? I forget, compression test results? This brings timing front and center does it not? Also--here is one that drives folks nut on a 2 cycle---bad crank seals. I had it to happen on an OLD 041AV Stihl chainsaw. Buddy loaned me his "test kit", but still think I had to modify/make a block off plate. Can't remember but I believe I plugged the exhaust and pressurized the intake, then later pulled vacuum on intake? I've got a really old Echo issued vacuum tester that I used in addition to my friends. I wound up tearing that saw all the way down---everybody should do that once. I don't think there was anything left bolted together except the carb (I had already put a kit in that). There is a reason every lawnmower shop has a big pile of 2 cycle products in the scrap heap.

Plug is removed, connected to the boot and making connection to the block, I pull the cord or have another person pull it and you can see spark plain as day. Although I think its kind of weak compared to other tests I have seen. I haven't done a comparison to another plug yet that is on the weekend to do list.

Has spark, fuel, air and clear exhaust. Compression with 4 pulls was 120.

John, that is honestly my next step and it won't take much its a tiny little engine. I don't see how timing can be off, with not having any valves in the engine. So, next is a complete tear down, which may take 30 mins to do to see if there are any signs, then I plan on a complete seal rebuild etc. After that I may just give up on the freebie, but all the signs are there that it should run just fine.

Bore scope does not show any issues with scoring on the wall either.

Do a vacuum test on the crankcase. I'm sure you will find a leak.

Ignition timing could be off if the flywheel moved.

When you do that turn the kill switch on and off and see if it makes a difference.

Yes, try another plug. cj8. I bought a looks like new used Craftsman leaf blower. That skinny little spark plug fires, what ever it is but was hard to start. A cj-8 made it reliable. Mike

Update
 

I bought the manufactured NGK plug, spark was better. Before testing that, I pulled the ENTIRE engine apart. It sat for 3 days and was bone freaking dry.

I reassembled and even without the carb hooked up, I shot just a bit of starting fluid in the cylinder and used the new plug and still nothing. That SOB should have at least popped. I am about to take this thing to the range and light it up with my .50Cal. I did fully reassemble and still nothing.

No scoring, I cleaned the carbon deposits on the top of the carb, still solid compression, kill switch perfectly working, I can only think may the timing, but I do not see how that is possible with how basic the engine is. There isn't a belt, there are no valves.

Try putting a vacuum gauge on the carb and see if it sucks when you roll it over.

Update
 

So I broke the entire engine down in pieces to inspect everything. The only thing I can see that may be an issue is the main crankcase seal as it had collected dirt/grim all along it on the outside and it is razor thin and fragile. Maybe as others mentioned I was having a vacuum leak due to a faulty seal.

So, I am going to order a seal kit for it, reassemble and give it a go, one more time, otherwise I am at a complete loss and may just toss it.

Thanks for the update. I sure would like to know the outcome as it sounds like you’ve been very thorough on it. Although if this is it, I would love to see a video about letting the 50 cal take a bite.