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Clutch Rebuild-Manual Transmission
I purchase a 100 with a 42 inch mower deck and front blade at an auction in the fall of 2012.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...0100/rd003.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...0100/rd001.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...0100/rd002.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...0100/rd004.jpg This 100 is one of the quickest starting garden tractors I've own. When you tried to engage the mower it acted like something was in a bind and not letting the mower blades spin. The problem ended up being the pulley was against the mule drive. The welded nut inside the frame was missing and the mule drive was bent. Only way to fix it was to remove the engine. The clutch between the engine and trans was acting up too (someone installed a wide frame clutch). While I need to remove the engine to weld the nut back on I will fix the clutch too. Removing the clutch is easy to do if you follow your repair instructions in your Cub Cadet manual. I had an extra narrow frame clutch to use. Narrow Frame Clutch Assembly: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps7f662eb6.jpg I wanted to take clutch assembly apart to make sure everything was ok. Here are the special tools I use to disassemble/assemble a clutch assembly: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps8bdad51f.jpg First thing I notice the throw out bearing was froze up. One of the first things I do is to remove coupler joint between the trans and driveshaft. I use my V-block to hold the clutch and hang the clutch disk over the edge: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps7f508df3.jpg I use a spiroid pin punch to drive the pin out. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps957c4c7b.jpg Notice the pin is over the edge so it has a place for the pin to go. |
Notice the location of the pin in relation to the V-block:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps90c39577.jpg Next to removed is the pin holding the spring in place: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps0e4edec2.jpg The bolt in the picture is an important safety feature that is a must if you use a jig like this one: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps9ebdf31c.jpg Pin out: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps5c73097f.jpg Here are some of the tools I use and the spring: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psd13313f5.jpg The next I like to do is remove the pin(s) that hold the pressure plates on the driveshaft. I will turn the clutch assembly end for end to use my jig to remove the pins. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps24598f1a.jpg Closer view: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps135c702d.jpg Front pin being removed: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps09662b59.jpg |
Clutch assembly is apart. Here is what the clutch disc looks like:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps2eeeb57f.jpg The pile to the right of the clutch disc is part of the clutch disc. Pressure plates: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psda0b6ab2.jpg Release arm: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psc94b8e26.jpg You need to look for excessive wear where my finger is pointing to: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps0d968f6b.jpg This release arm is in good shape. The area where my finger is pointing to is where the throw out bearing goes. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psfc1a614c.jpg The driveshaft needs replace. Tomorrow we will make a list of parts that need replace. |
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Picture of area in question: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psd6e85463.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps115162a9.jpg |
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One of the main reasons for this thread is to show how easy it can be to rebuild a clutch. |
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I'm not a big fan of using a press. The tool I use can go to an event and is much easier to use than a press. |
The last item I check out is the 3 pin driver.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psdaa68f30.jpg The picture shows the wear on the pins. Worn pin(s) will make the holes in the clutch disc go oversize and the pins could shear off. It will make the clutch go out of balance and the tractor will have the shakes. I will replace the bushing in the 3 pin driver too. |
Parts that are needed to rebuild the clutch assembly
bushing-3 pin driver 3/8 X 1 1/2 steel coiled springs pin (need 3) clutch disc true pressure plates teaser spring throw Out bearing drive shaft 5/16 X 1 1/4 steel coiled springs pin (need 3) 5/8 diameter clamp on shaft collar-I do not like to use a steel coiled spring pin in any drive shaft I rebuild. It leaves a weak point in the drive shaft. Time to do some shopping |
I have a list to compare prices.
Bushing-3 pin driver Cub Cadet-$5.58 McMaster-Carr-$3.22 Cub Cadet Classics-$5.50 Garden Tractor Pulling Tips-$3.00 Teaser Spring Cub Cadet-$4.33 Midwest Super Cub-$5.18 Cub Cadet Classics-$3.75 Garden Tractor Pulling Tips-$5.00 Throwout Bearing Cub Cadet-$55.58 Midwest Super Cub-$55.00 Zach Kerber Machine & Design-$25.50-See note A Patton Acres-$28.70 Clutch Disc Cub Cadet-$48.97 Cub Cadet Classics-$45.00 Midwest Super Cub-$37.85-See note B Patton Acres-$29.00 Garden Tractor Pulling Tips-$40.00 Narrow Frame Clutch Pedal Return Spring Cub Cadet Classics-$5.50 Patton Acres-$8.00-See note C Garden Tractor Pulling Tips-$5.00 Cub Cadet-$6.31 Drive Shaft Patton Acres-$48.20 Midwest Super Cub-$30.00-See note D Zach Kerber Machine & Design-$25.00-See note E Garden Tractor Pulling Tips-See note F Split Collar Garden Tractor Pulling Tips-$3.00 McMaster-Carr-$5.15 Clutch Pressure Spring Cub Cadet Classics-$26.00-See Note G Cub Cadet-$25.56-See Note H Clutch Pedal Return Spring Cub Cadet-$6.31 Note A-Bearing has a longer sleeve. Will need to use a 2 piece collar Note B-Kevlar/Fiberglass material Note C-Used spring Note D-4140 Material-No hole behind spring Note E-4140 Material-No holes behind spring and coupler Note F-1144 Material -$45.00 304 Stainless Steel-$30.00 Note G-Blue Spring-550-600 pound pressure Note H-Stock Spring-250-300 pound pressure Time to order parts The prices above are 2014 prices. |
Parts I ordered are:
McMaster- bushing-3 pin driver 3/8 X 1 1/2 steel coiled springs pin (need 3) 1/4 X 1 1/2 steel coiled springs pin (need 3) 5/8 diameter clamp on shaft collar H.G. Violet-(local Cub Cadet dealer) teaser spring throw Out bearing Narrow Frame Clutch Pedal Return Spring Midwest Super cub clutch disc drive shaft I true pressure plates on My Father's lathe. Parts from Midwest Super Cub and McMaster were ordered today. The parts from H.G. Violet will ordered Monday morning. |
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Sorry Jeff |
Here are the parts that will be used to rebuild the clutch:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps0cf3557d.jpg First thing that needs done is to replace the pins and bushing in the 3 pin driver. Pins http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps5ca1ff03.jpg Bushing http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps8c3aa68a.jpg Reinstalling bushing: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psab894fc7.jpg pins: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps4085e3f4.jpg 3 pin driver is ready to install. |
I like to take the 3 pin driver and slide it over the driveshaft to make sure it turns freely.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psa4b0c2fe.jpg I aslo take the clutch disc and slide it over the 3 pin driver to make sure everything is alined. I like to use brake clean to remove oil from clutch disc and pressure plates. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psac3efa5b.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps1ef4273b.jpg The first thing I like to do is install the pin that holds the pressure plate hub. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps9d6a5196.jpg Next thing to make sure the pressure plate hub slides over the pin. The pressure plate did not slide over the pin. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps01bdae64.jpg |
Right side is ok.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps5f69bc01.jpg Left side has a burr. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps2379e61b.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps6689e65a.jpg The hub had a burr on the one side where the pin goes. The pressure plate hub now slides over the pin. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psb98afe97.jpg The pressure plate hub goes on the driveshaft. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps6b79ff44.jpg Next is the clutch friction disc. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps031429a7.jpg Next is the locating pressure assembly and drive pin into place. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psc27b0663.jpg |
I will install the 3 pin driver to drive shaft to check if everything spins freely.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps48ca0886.jpg Plus it centers the friction disc. I will check the clutch lever for wear. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps8aa6ee47.jpg The shinny spots are where the throw out bearing rides. The clutch lever and compression (teaser) are next to be installed. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psfdfd130c.jpg Throw out bearing goes on next. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psb98c9edd.jpg |
There are several different compression springs that you can use in your Cub Cadet clutch. Cub Cadet Classics has a blue spring that has 500 to 600 pound rating. The red spring has a 800 pound rating. The yellow spring has a 1120 pound rating. The stock spring has 225 to 250 pound rating. I set my clutches so my Wife and grand kids can push the clutch in. The red spring is too much and the stock spring isn't strong enough. I found on a tractor pull site this spring that has a 500 rating. It was before the blue spring was found plus it is cheaper. The spring is half of a field cultivator spring. One problem with this spring is the inside diameter is too big. I use a piece of pipe as a spacer with this spring.
My IH Cub Cadet 100 has this spring set up in for the last 3 years with no problems. Install the spacer on drive shaft. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps3f07cbe5.jpg Washer is first them the spring. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...pse500f4f8.jpg Next is a washer and 2 split collars. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps5a71ae91.jpg Some may be asking why I use split collars instead of the pin that cub Cadet used. The hole in the drive shaft is a weak spot. I'm trying to eliminate weak areas. Next the clutch assembly goes in my clutch spring compressor. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psc141b155.jpg The clutch spring is compress to the same spot where the pin thru the driveshaft location was. Both collars are tighten. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps6a8d9c04.jpg The second collar is more for insurance so the they don't slip on the drive shaft. Hopefully everyone notice the safety pin in my clutch spring compressor. there is plenty of stored energy in that drive shaft. This picture shows the spring that holds the clutch pedal up. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps389bd16a.jpg It was missing. Clutch is installed back in the 100. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps1dddecc7.jpg |
This was the main reason why the work to the 100 was done.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psaa6b6e21.jpg The 2 nuts were welded to the inside of the frame. I have several different attachments that mount where the mule drive connects. I purchase these from Jeff in Pa. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps6331307a.jpg It makes mounting attachments to the 100 much easier. ( Thanks Jeff!!!) |
The material that the driveshaft is made out of is 4140 material.
The clutch is a Kevlar/fiberglass composite material. This sounds overkill for a 10 horse power Cub Cadet. The plans are to increase the horse power next year. I hope I was able to show you the way I been building clutches. There are different ways to build one. This set up works for me. You will have a few more parts if you are working on a wide frame clutch. Keep track of where they go. The above clutch rebuild was done on a narrow frame clutch assembly. There are few items that are different between a narrow frame clutch assembly and wide frame-quiet line assembly. Parts that are different: Driveshaft length The throw out bearing part number on models 70-100-71-102-122-72-104-124-73-106-126 is 941-3056. The throw out bearing part number on models 86-108-128-580-582-800-1000-1050-1200-1535-1604-1606 and 1806 is 703-0600. Models 86-108-128-580-582-800-1000-1050-1200-1535-1604-1606 and 1806 have a spring spacer in the drive shaft. |
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:Cub2: |
I found the part number(s) for the spring I used.
500 pound clutch spring PECP1511A1 (New Holland) EP1511 (AGCO) You can go to a New Holland or AGCO dealer to see if they have the part or they should be able to order one. The spring needs to be cut in 2. |
Clutch is back in 100. I installed the blade and push some dirt.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psf03bf5a1.jpg View from the front: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...pscfaab39d.jpg 70 wanted to get involved in moving dirt: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...pscc502397.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps25567813.jpg |
Here some great drawings to identify the different parts of a narrow frame clutch assembly:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps29jenm0z.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psv6o9xpnr.jpg Thanks Craig Cambell for the drawings!!! |
Materials used to build my clutch fixture:
The material used is 1/2 X 2 inch. The angle iron is 1 1/4 inch. The threaded rod is 1/2 thread. The length of the threaded rod is 18 inches. Overall length of the frame is 22 inches. Height is 8 inches. The bushing that goes between the threaded rod is 4 1/2 inches long and 1 inch outside diameter. The end towards the threaded rod is 1/2 inch diameter. The ends towards the clutch assembly/driveshaft is 5/8 inch diameter. Part was made on a lathe. Threaded rod end: There was a 1/2 nut welded to a flat piece of steel. This nut/plate was welded to the uprights. Centerline height is 7 inches. End that holds driveshaft in place: Shim stock was used to get the 5/8 spacing for the drive shaft. Support piece is 6 3/4 inches. Clutch holding fixture was built by my Son in his high school ag shop. |
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