Can rebuilt K-301 be used for mowing right away?
 

I read the recommended break-in procedure here. Step #3 indicates to "run engine as you normally would" so would that include putting a load on it, i.e. mowing and also that it can be run (and checked) for high rpm speed? Then step #4 refers to "after 5 operating hours"...again....meaning...what? Simply running the engine or using it to work? My 129 was already 8-9 years old when I got it and so I never went through a 'break-in' on one of these motors. Thanks for any advice....

Cut your grass and kick some ass but change your oil after 5 hours while you are still in break-in period.

LOL..simple as that, huh? The area I have to mow is not exactly your average lawn. Planning on using the Cub to cut paths in the woods that get overgrown with weeds. I'm doing it all again first with a weedwacker so as to not work the Cub too hard right away. Almost afraid to start it, since the last time I used it (last June) is when the rod broke - was NOT a pleasant sound. :Cry1:

Get it cranked up. If it makes you more comfortable run until hot at half throttle with out blades engaged. Shut it down, check for leaks, loose parts, etc.. Once you have done that. Let her rip!:beerchug:
Then of course change oil at 5 hours

PS. If you have not started at all since rebuild, there may be a few final minor adjustments to be made still... High idle, governor, etc

Don't forget to re torque the head bolts after break in

So really no need to follow this?

2. Start and run engine at a fast idle for 15 – 30 minutes. Shut down and allow to cool to ambient temperature (takes about 2 hours). Re-torque cylinder head bolts to 30 ft-lb. Failure to do this can possibly result in a blown head gasket in a relatively short period of time.

3. Run engine as you normally would. Do not “baby” or run at slow speeds…keep the rpm up as this provides proper airflow for cooling and assists in ample lubrication.

4. After 5 operating hours, drain crankcase oil while engine is hot. Replace drain plug and refill crankcase with 1.5 quarts of 30 wt. non-detergent oil.

5. After 5 more operating hours, drain crankcase oil while engine is hot. Replace drain plug. Refill with 1.5 quarts of a name-brand, 30 wt. detergent oil (do not use 10W-30, only straight-weight 30).

6. This oil may be run for 25-30 hours before changing, which is the normal change interval for Kohler engines. Always change oil when the engine is hot…this removes more particulates. At 50 operating hours, the engine can be considered fully broken in.

Coop...speaking of carb settings...I find it interesting that there is a discrepancy between the initial low idle setting in the owner's manual (1 turn) compared to the Kohler manual (2.5 turns). Both manuals are the same for high idle (2 turns). Right now I have the low idle screw set at 1 turn. Will be checking the high rpm with a tachometer since the guy who put the engine together for me strongly suggested doing that.

Those are just Starting points, not hard and fast cast in stone settings, they must be tweaked til it runs the best and doesn't stumble especially when going from idle to high speed. Where those screws wind up will differ between machines. And don't be afraid to make slight adjustments as the engine wears in, possibly for weather conditions, etc.

That said, I initially set every carb that I work on to 1-1/4 turns out from seated and go from there. Some need adjusted tighter some looser from there. But I find that to be pretty close for most fresh from the get go.

At the least, I would think retorquing the head after running the engine for only 15-30 minutes seems a bit sooner than needed (?)

No,

It is needed. The first time you get it hot, you will need to re-torque.
You will see that its needed once you put your torque wrench on it. Trust us...

I see nothing wrong with following the procedure in post #6
I highly recommend it with one exception,
I re torque the heads again after working the engine some.
it is just cheap insurance against a head gasket failure.
some engines need it, others not so much,
but it is not that big of a job and no is cost involved. :beerchug:

IMHO, you run it like she is a "rented mule" !!

The only engine that I was associated with that did not live up to expectations was a 4430 JD,,
we threw a party the weekend after that tractor arrived,,, the 4430 ran the generator for 3 days,,,
That tractor never had the power that we expected,,,

OTOH,, two years earlier, the JD 4630 arrived,,
If had a 7 bottom (18") plow hooked to it,, and the tractor plowed virgin 60 year old pasture for a week.
The tractor pulled so hard, we had to fill the 14" wide front tires full of calcium chloride,, AND add over 2000 pounds of front end weights,,
before the weight, the tractor would plow without the front wheels touching the ground,, you had to steer with the brakes.
The 4630 was ALWAYS a beast,, the 4430 was sold as a disappointment,,,

Run it hard!! :bigthink:

Thanks for additional thoughts. I will definitely plan on following the recommended break-in procedure.

:beerchug:

Beer chug? More like a sigh of relief....I suspect this is the first and last really big tractor project that I will ever undertake! Started last summer already with the blown engine and just got it all done yesterday. Next time (if) the engine goes, the 129 will be for sale...gotta start downsizing sometime anyway! :bigthink:

Downsize? nawww never.
The more equipment you own, the more the equipment owns you :bash2:

LOL! You got it...that's exactly the problem!!! I'm way too sentimental over all this old, 'vintage' equipment. Inherited from my Dad I guess...the old Depression mentality..."don't get rid of that cause you never know when you might need it"

Maybe your older than I think, my folks went through that.
Funny,
my friends/family sometimes mention I should get rid of some of my "stuff" to put it kindly.
But sooner than later, come by needing some "fixin" or "a whazzit" and I dig it up for them, and they are happy,happy.
Appreciation is my pay,and the guy in the shaving mirror, smiles @ me every morning, ---- I sorta like that.:beerchug:

Love the "to put it kindly" part.....I know what you mean. On occasion I find myself thinking of something I could really use, and knew I (once) had - then realize that I threw it out a few years ago already, thereby attesting to the value of my Dad's philosophy - except that at some point you start to run out of space for "stuff" OR...and this just happened to me yesterday...came across something I bought awhile back and now have absolutely NO idea why I bought it or what I intended to do with it! Memory doesn't work like it used to.

As to age, let's just say I'm old enough to have grown up with stuff like view master slides, magic 8-ball (remember those?), slinky, foto-electric football, Mattel creeple people, candy (syrup) in those wax bottles...."nik-l-nips" and bazooka bubble gum, etc. When I got an 8-track player installed in one of my first cars, thought it was the lap of luxury :)

Or an under dash ARC record player, wipers were vacuum and "AC" was a current in the wall plug, that supplied the little TV to watch Elvis for the 1st time on the Ed Sullivan show.
Our social media was the 6 person party line.:biggrin2:

The syrup in the wax bottles made me chuckle, and i remember the party lines.:biggrin2:

lol....never had the party lines, but my wife's parents did. Must have been a bit weird at times when different conversations took place simultaneously. I think this thread needs to be renamed something like 'reminiscences of times past...' :)

Do I need to get a special deep socket to re-torque the #4 and 7 head bolts? Don't remember my old ones being this long. My deep socket doesn't even get close. Didn't plan on having to buy a socket to check the torque on these - didn't have to before. Not sure what changed. I know my old head had a variety of different spacers, etc. so perhaps the head bolt actually sat on a spacer (probably not the best way) rather than vice-versa? Can't remember...too much has happened with this tractor between then and now! Wonder how the guy tightened these two? Must have a really deep socket. Thanks for any advice....

My craftsman 1/2" drive sockets will accept at least a 2-1/2" long stud.
I would think that should be enough??
Not familiar with your engine so I can't say for sure if it is long enough.:bigthink:

Ive used a regular deep socket on any one I have done without issue. Perhaps the builder changed the studs and put longer ones in for some reason.

Found one that works - a 12-pt socket (not as crazy about using that however especially this one which seems a bit worn). I don't have a 6-pt. in a 9/16". Think maybe I should buy one instead of trusting to the 12-pt. while torquing.

Put the spacers on first then nuts on top. Depending on your model they are for spacing the heatshield and sometimes the gas tank mount. You will have plenty of room with any deepwell

#4 and 7 nuts are already torqued though.....would hate to loosen them if I'm not going to also loosen all the others...so not certain if actually removing them is what you're suggesting (?) The rest almost appear to be cap screws - so is it a problem to keep everything as is? The builder had said I don't need to do anything else with it (other than add the shield), cause I recall asking him about it.

I found my notes that I wrote when taking the old head on and off - on the two long studs, first went the bolt directly against the head (as it is now), then there was a metal washer (or even two on the one stud - not sure anymore), and then the last nut that goes on top of the heat shield. The muffler bracket also attaches to the heat shield.

My 1/2" drive deep well sockets are WAY longer than 3/8" drive deep wells,, :bigthink: