I picked up a red one
 

I just got home with this, it came with a snow blade, 50c deck, mule and hanger, a few quarts of paint, a new pack of decals, new filter, new tires, and wheel weights. It has about 1200 hours on it, and it’s a Kohler KT17 Series II engine! It won’t start, it last ran a couple years ago. I’ll drive it off the the trailer tomorrow :biggrin2:

Attachment 100146

Excited for a new project... especially a red one. My only other red one was too rusted up for me to fool with so it ended up parted out.

Nice Score Steve! Looks like it has lots of goodies with it, too and some really nice wheel weights. Are those 50 lbs. or 75 lbs. each? I also like the white grill on the red ones. I was thinking about putting a white grill and side shields on my 982 to dress it out a little differently.

Cub Cadet 123

Looks good in the dark! :beerchug:

Paints a little rough but it will clean up nice.

Those are 75lb weights.

Plan is to get it running and go from there.

Congrats on the new red, looks nice. I've got a 582 that i have cleaned up and touched up. Trying to keep it original it's only that way once. Mike:beerchug:

Here are some daylight photos. There is no compression in one cylinder, and I removed the spark plug, I can’t see the piston moving, I can on the other side. :bash2:

I think I still did good with all the accessories and new tires, etc. new engine seals, new tranny cover gasket, new plugs, filter, 6 cans of paint...

I gave it a bath to clean the dirt and grease off, looks like someone over sprayed it with red and it’s now peeling.

Attachment 100149

Attachment 100153

Attachment 100150

Attachment 100151

Attachment 100152

Now contact the member here with 2 engines for sale and you will be in good shape.
A broken rod in your engine makes for many broken parts inside it.:bigthink:

Welp, the only way to know for sure is to crack it open and look, starting with pulling the head. The PO said it ran two years ago and had been sitting and now it won’t start. So I figured it would be carb related. I guess it’s possible he was running it on one cylinder. I don’t think rods spontaneously combust while sitting.

That other member johncub has two engines but is 5 hours away. There were two nearby for $50 a couple weeks ago. One with a broken rod and one with a bad seal. That could have come in handy now. I’ll keep an eye out for something closer, while I tear this one down and see what’s happened inside.

I have a good Kohler command vtwin short block sitting around too, maybe I can build that up and use it. I’d need a carb, a head, gaskets, muffler and shrouds, flywheel... etc.

Nice find!

Nice find, That box is a nice little bag of trouser change.

Well,
I bought my first 782 many years ago, the fellow said it had an electrical problem, was a bad coil, no spark on one side.
He was right, but what he failed to mention was beside the bad coil it also had a broken rod, that holed the block, broke the cam, cylinder skirt, piston among other smaller things.
yep it run on 1 cyl. not good, but it run some.
As they say in NASCAR "it done blowed up":biggrin2:
Good luck in your quest for a good double breasted flathead 2 or magnum.
Thinking Sam Mac had a good Magnum fer sail a couple moons ago.:bigthink:

Nice rig good luck on getting it running. 682 with 18 magnum and 50” deck is my main mowing machine

I have a good M-18 that you can drop in. $300.00

Thanks for the offer Sam, but I’m not heading down that way until September. Something will turn up close by.

I got the engine pulled and found lots of new parts. A new starter, new fuel line and pump, and PTO clutch.

I pulled the jug and found it is beyond repair. It’s in bad shape inside, just like ol’george said. The last picture is interesting to me. Isn’t there supposed to be a hard gasket behind the jug on the block? It looks like a sealant was used there. It did not punch the block though. I'll take it all the way apart to investigate, but maybe it's a crankshaft, rod, jug replacement situation?

Attachment 100172

Attachment 100173

Attachment 100174

Attachment 100175

The newer engines went to RTV just like everyone in the world, less cost.
Look real close @ the block, betting it got a hard hit , almost all do.
Also look @ the cam for damage.
She got hurt fer sho'
Before you split the block, mark your cam plug with a scribe mark so you can reinstall
it in the same clocked position, insuring a leak proof joint if you can reuse the block.( that tip is not in the book)
Think of the forces involved trying to push the cylinder off the block when
she "done blowed up" then look for more damage.:bigthink:
Easiest repair is go see Sam or another trusted person for a good bolt in engine.

I am in the garage again tearing this down further. BOTH rods are broken. That’s pretty impressive. I didn’t notice that last night because I was only focused on getting one side off that I knew was bad. The piston movement I saw in the other side with the plug out must have just been the rod fragment hitting the crank. This one is definitely trashed.

That is impressive!
can't say I've seen both rods broken,
but a good learning experience.:beerchug:

Well now we have some parts! I picked this up today for the KT17 series II.

Attachment 100247

It has no spark and a bad starter. But has compression. Hopefully it is good. If not I have more parts to sell. :biggrin2:

Well it was a non runner engine in the new 682, because the points was busted. It also needed a starter. Both parts I had from my grenaded engine in like new condition. I’m working on getting it cleaned up now, it had quite a mouse nest on the shroud. I will pull the flywheel and check the seal while I have it apart. The red 682 came with new seals still in the pack so I might just replace the flywheel side seal while I am in this far. Now, a question. This yellow and white 682 has spacers under the engine. The red one did not. No tractor I’ve gotten and taken apart had spacers except cyclops. What gives? Should they stay? Are they necessary? My 1912 that I repowered with an M18 doesn’t have them and it does just fine.

Oh. Here are some pics of the donor heart.

Attachment 100252

Attachment 100253

I do believe that the engine mounting plates are different, if not remove the spacers.

Maybe that’s why the muffler outlet rubbed into the grille. :bigthink: not sure why a PO would have put spacers in. Weird.

Both my Ih & CCC 782's have spacers under the engine between the M-18's & mounting plate.:bigthink:

I compared the mounting plates. They’re identical. The plate in the IH has wear marks on it from the bottom of the engine block. So it had been that way for a while at least. I’m thinking about just leaving them. I was just going to swap over the engine on the plate and be done.

Mine have all had spacers. 2- 782s, 1710 and 1811. Think the 1861 does as well.

I’ve had at least 6 of the 82 series with Kohler motors and this is the first one I saw that had spacers. :bigthink:

I believe they all left the factory with spacers.
IIRR,
some years ago on this forum, we discussed making them and discussed the sizes, hell, it might of been me.:bigthink:
But I think if you look up parts on cub or parts tree, they show them.

It is possible fellows just leave them out when swapping engines, or lost them so just eliminate them.
All 4 spacers are the same size.
Not difficult to install, just set engine on spacers and bolt down to plate, then install plate/engine in tractor.
Maybe the factory wanted to make the rag joints in better alignment?
or possibly a different engine didn't require them, like say a single cyl??
I'd have to do some research on the crankshaft to mounting base specification of a single or a twin briggs like the 582 possibly??

I’ve seen them on the newer cyclopses with command and vanguard engines. I’ll leave them in there, easier for me and probably right. Maybe I should put some on my 1912 with the mag if it helps the rag joints.

Everything i've had had spacers,KT's, M-18 even the 582 Briggs. I'm thinking they helped air flow around the engine. Mike

check if partstree/cub show them as originally installed under the onan.
-----that might be a clue.
Or maybe check specks of center of crank to mounting feet dimensions, and
compare to the twin kohlers.:bigthink:

We have a runner! Attachment 100258

:beerchug::beerchug:

Good to see you got it running, looks temporary, are you pulling it to put on the tins?

I mowed 6 acres with it like that. Is that wrong?

:beer2:

Of course I’m going to put the tins on. I just started it up and made sure it runs before I went any further.

If you mow fast enough you will not need the tins...

I put the side tin on. Couple new problems I found. The hydro input shaft has a plastic bag tangled around it and the seal is leaking. PO thought it was the check valve. Well, that is leaking too. No problem. He gave me a spare, but I’ll need to get a seal. Same fix I did to my 1912 earlier this year. No big deal. Other issue, after starting twice it won’t start now. Getting a gaseous fog out the muffler. Smells like gas. I guess I’m digging into the carb next. Always something. But this one will look sweet when I’m done. Oh, and the crank seal is leaking behind the PTO also. Another part that was in the box. This is the one I want to restore and keep. I mean, he gave me the decal set and paint. New tires... it’s begin’ to be restored and it won’t cost me much more than time.

I have a runner again. The battery was weak and couldn’t get a hot enough spark. I put it on the charger for a little while and it fired right up. My garage is showered in hytran now because I pulled the plastic out that was wrapped around the input shaft and now the oil just flies out and onto the fan. And the fan did what fans do.

Well I solved that one at least temporarily. I took the front plate off another hydro pump I have sitting around and swapped it with this one. I had to loosen the engine and slide it forward enough to have room to get the shaft out of the way. No more leak. The plastic bag got in under the seal and ripped it and it could no longer do it’s job. I also swapped the check valve that was leaking too.

So, new question. After the engine gets warmed up it starts making a chirping sound that sounds like it’s on the compression stroke. Of course I have no way of knowing if it is the compression stroke but it’s happening with engine speed. I can’t tell if it’s coming up the carburetor or the breather vent. Maybe the breather vent is leaking and letting air “squeak” by? It runs nice and smooth otherwise.

Sorry for all the posts today. The wife and kids are away all week and I’m bored. :biggrin2:

If it "chirps" on quick opening the throttle, check head gasket.
or grease front axle pivot:bigthink:

I was thinking head gasket too. It’s not on throttle up. It’s all the time at all throttles but only when it gets warmed up. It sounds like it’s coming from the carburetor area so maybe if it’s a head gasket it’s echoing around in the tins. I’ll diagnose it later. My back is spent from working on it today.

turn the steering wheel and the chip will go away... maybe....