Clutch replace/rebuild
 

Ughh. The day I've been dreading finally came. Was mowing when the old 108 started vibrating and I noticed my clutch pedal was no longer functional. The disc is kaput too.

This is not a job I relish taking on. What do I need to know before I start?

Pull the Tunnel Cover and do an assessment. Snap some pictures and maybe we can help from here.

Hello, Merc has a clutch rebuilding post in the Tec Library for tractors. Mike

Try this topic:
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=33653

Oh golly gosh. That looks like a lot of work for someone who hates mechanical work and isn't all that good at it. Thanks for posting. Looks like I might have an uncut lawn 2 years in a row. Thankfully I got it cut short before this years mechanical disaster hit.

I do rebuild clutch assemblies.

Do you do it for charity cases? :bigthink:

Check your mail

That job ain't all that bad just gotta pay attention to the details like worn out clutch actuation parts and grooved shaft, etc

Well for some reason I thought I needed to take the engine out to remove the clutch assembly...so I disconnected wires and cables, removed the gas tank and starter....and fortunately found out in the nick of time that I do not need to remove the engine.

That's OK, because I found some other things that need to be addressed. I'm relieved I don't need to remove it. Once I get the assembly out I'll decide whether I want to fix it myself, get it rebuilt, or shoot myself. :bash2:

4 more bolts and the engine can be out.
Not a big deal and it will make it a hell of a lot easier to work on, clean up and repair what's needed.
What's the problem?
Do it once and do it right.

But is that "doing it right"? The service manual doesn't suggest removing the engine. And how much does it weigh? I'm also not keen on injuring myself taking it out.

I give up!

:HeadScratch:

Just because the manual says one thing, does not mean that is the only correct way to do it. I agree it would probably be easier with the engine out. Two people can easily lift it, or use an engine lift if you have access to one.

as I remember that engine is around 125 lb. I've lifted more than a few in and out before, when I wasn't around a cherry picker or comealong.
take advantage of having it out, pull tins and clean crap from within cooling fins while out... engine almost certainly has to come out for that.... and power wash the chassis while its out.

:ThumbsUp: X2

With out PTO, head and tins
So figure what, another 10-15# for those and you are looking at 85 pounds max?
Less than a bag of cement.

Well I had to compromise. I live out in the boonies and don't have a lift or anyone nearby to help me remove the engine, plus the grass isn't getting any shorter. So I just slid the engine forward to get the clutch out, which I pretty much had to do anyway because the rearmost flex collar pin wouldn't come out. But there is no way I'm lifting that engine out by myself with a bad foot, bad knee and a not so good back.

Now I just have to decide if I want to do it myself, have it done locally (if anyone can do it) or send it out. I'd probably have to buy tools I don't have in order to do it myself, but its going to cost me one way or the other anyway...

Remove the front grill housing and then you can slide the engine out all the way on to a plastic bucket BTDT

Nope, not on my 108. There's a few low hanging inches so I'd have to lift it to get it out.

Finally have some time and little money so I'm going to see if I can rebuild this myself, at least well enough to make it work again. Be prepared for the adventure...

You have a bench vice?

Yep. The spring is already off. Nobody was injured. :biggrin2:

This clutch is toast. The only part I'm not sure of is the release arm, because Merk's tutorial says it shouldn't be worn excessively and I am not sure when the wear becomes "excessive". Its definitely well worn.

The shaft is worn at the bearing area, so that's gotta go. The drive pins are worn so the drive plate has to go.

If all that's bad are the pins, you can spend 60 bucks for a whole new drive plate or 5 bucks for new pins.

https://www.grainger.com/product/FAB...chQuery=41lw92

Ah...good idea. I haven't taken the plate out and I didn't know the pins were removable. I think/hope the plate is OK...

Edit: I hadn't read Merks tutorial closely enough. I see now about the drive pins.

I would change the bushing in the 3 pin driver while you have the clutch apart.