Cub Cadet 149 - hydro tube question
 

So I have a 149 where the hydroline continued to leak. So I bought the suggested cub cadet 927-3008 and didn't see a gasket for the line running into the 5/8 nut to 7/8 tube. Anyone have any hints or ideas of what goes between the tube and the nut?

First, welcome to OCC.... :Welcome2:

There is NO gasket to that connection. There is a brass "compression sleeve" that tightens down against the tube to seal it. See attachment.

On my 149 I've got the tube style pictured on the left. Does this mean my original tube was replaced?

It looks like both style tubes take the same compression fitting where they enter the sump -- is that correct?

http://cubcadetusedparts.com/Product...8-e0fb02ad29d0

It does NOT matter the style or shape of the tubing. The brass sleeve remains the same.

Maybe the brass ferrule is worn, distorted, or misaligned. Teflon tape on the threads might stop a small leak.

Tape or sealant on the threads would do no good as the sealing is done by the ferrule.
A new ferrule can be had at most better/larger HWD stores.:beerchug:

The OP didn't say the new suction tube was leaking, just that it didn't have an obvious seal. If it's missing the ferrule, that's all that's needed. If it already has the ferrule, just put it on and snug it up. Good.

The ferrule could be worn or misaligned and therefor not properly seal. Be sure to inspect the ferrule and mating surfaces.

Over the many years, I have seen Ferrule's that were crushed beyond recognition, some actually split and a multitude of states of condition.
They are one of my least liked fittings.
In the early years of automobiles, they were popular,and in various configurations.
One of the things I don't like is if over tightened they can actually crush the tube they are installed on, causing it to not seal again,also making them near impossible to remove to try to replace.
In the position of this discussion, the suction tube is easily relocated/damaged/bent, when it came in contract with something ran over or high centered on a rock or something similar, and it leaks as we know.
hopefully a minor tightening will cure the problem.:bigthink:

So the ferrule wasn't included and my original tube didn't have it, hence why it was and still is leaking.

I'll have to get one and place it on. Thanks for the tip. You'd think cub cadet would've included that with the tube purchase free of change. I'll post an update once I get it installed. Thanks again everyone!

I have a small leak on this tube too, its at the joint on the bottom into the transmission.

Im going to try to tighten a bit first but how much oil will i lose if i open that fitting to remake the joint? Do i have to drain the oil to make this repair?

You will loose it all if you take that apart.

thanks, upon closer inspection I think the leak is higher. Its not the filter though and I read about the cork gasket, i bet thats my problem. Hopefully I can find directions on how to do this without splitting the tractor... if thats even possible (CC149 with hydro lift for cutting deck).

I have done my 109 without splitting , it can be done , take the tunnel cover off and pull it all out the top, if I remember I think the brake linkages need to come apart to clear the way to remove the hydro unit, pull filter and piping to drain as much as possible !:beerchug:

Go to the Technical Library Section and download the Chassis Service Manual.
It is loaded with a lot of valuable information.

clean the area well on the front and above the tube.
Then dust some talcom or foot power all over that area.
The fluid will leave a trail in the dust and lead you right to the leak.

I have it pretty well cleaned up prior to discovering the leak and I think I can narrow it down to the gasket. Theres a circular mark cast into the axle directly above the bottom fitting on the tube. I believe the gasket is right above it out of site. That area was saturated with oil so its certainly coming from above. I can rule out the fittings on the tube, the valves and the filter by site.

Is there any other possible leak points that are out of site from the tunnel?

Somewhere I read that it wasnt possible to do it without splitting the tractor on the 149 if it has the hydraulic lift for the deck?

SECOND TIME.....!

"Go to the Technical Library Section and download the Chassis Service Manual.
It is loaded with a lot of valuable information."

of course i have the service manual :biggrin2:

There is also that top cover gasket in the vicinity. Is that gasket prone to failure?

Also, does that cork gasket between the pump and rear end tend to leak when their is a load on the tractor? My leak seems kind of intermittent, it doesnt drip when sitting for a few days but perhaps only after heavy use. Like last week I noticed a small drip on the cardboard where I have it parked.... now after a few days its no longer dripping. Makes me wonder how long I should wait to tear into it right at the start of the mowing season.

After 40+ years of use, YES, they tend to leak.

How much oil will come out of the hydro lift lines when I disconnect from the pump?

a few ounces.
I find it easy to slide the hydro/rear housing together out the back and
set it on wood blocks supporting the rear cover area.
With the hydro input shaft pointing up, you can remove the hydro, replace the gasket and reinstall it on the rear housing with minimal oil loss, and easy access to the bolts and suction line.
Then slide the assy back into the tractor and hook everything back up.
It helps to use a floor jack under the assembly to slide it out/back in but we are not talking a vehicle engine or transmission here, just a lawnmower.
Those inexpensive sheet metal drain pans work well to keep oil off the shop floor if one so desires.:bigthink:

perfect, might get away with just topping it off. I was concerned about those deck lift lines.

On that suction line, once I have it tipped over, which joint should I open to remove the pump?

Im thinking I dont want to mess with a ferrule unless I have too. And if I do, should I replace the ferrule, what size is that nut and ferrule?

Unscrew the nut on the hydro,when it is out and upright, also loosen the nut
on the compression fitting so you can take the nut off at the hydro.
Without loosing the compression ferrule nut you would have to distort the suction tube, that could lead to additional work/problems.
No you need not replace the ferrule, and when all is done just snug till it don't leak as you don't want to unnecessarily distort the tube/ferrule.
Do check the round expandable plug between mating surfaces of the hydro/
rear housing and suction tube, as they do leak and it is not uncommon to replace the cork gasket only to have the leak remain at the expandable plug.
it is about the size of a fifty cent piece.:bigthink:

Thanks alot George.

I have the older suction tube setup with the elbow fitting. When you say "nut at the hydro" do you mean the nut at the bottom connected to the sump or the nut at the pump? I was thinking both were compression fittings. Im guessing I dont have to run the tractor to see if its going to leak at one of those compression fittings.

and btw, i was looking at that expansion plug. After I dusted everything, its apparent the gasket is the wet location. The plug stayed dry so I was thinking of just coating the seam of the expansion plug with gasket sealer or something and calling it good.

I have a bunch of those plugs. I bought a pack of 10 when I replaced one of mine. They're 2 1/4".

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...031/22140453-P

I agree, taking it out and standing it up on it's back saves you from having to dump the fluid. Just keep it clean.

No need coating the expansion plug, would do no good if it was leaking.
The fitting at the hydro unit is a *37 flair fitting just like any hyd fitting, that is the one you want to separate.
also loosen the other fitting (at the rear casting) to give looseness so you don't have to bend the tube.
and Sorner has you covered if you needed to replace the expansion plug but I think they are still available.:beerchug:

Im going to give this a shot over the weekend.

Im just trying to figure out how to flip it over so i canremove the pump. I have no helper.


If i roll it out on the tires with a crescent wrench or if i roll it out on a jack.... whats the best way to flip it upright? Im wondering how much space will be between the diff cover and the floor so i can use blocks or a cindetblock maybe.

Thinking a cement block is too high but a tape measure held on the rear cover, and sighted approx across the rear tires is going to be a close approximation, yes?
Once it is out, just pick up the input shaft or filter and rotate it upwards like standing a 5 gal pail up from laying on it's side.
these things are not that heavy, it's a garden tractor, not a 20,000 pound farm tractor.
You are not bear hugging it and power lifting it, you are rotating it like standing up a 2 wheel, wheel barrow :beerchug:

George you make sense to me. Thanks.

take your time, think things out.
The guys here are most helpful when you get stuck.
You will be pleased at what you can accomplish.

Thanks again.

New gasket is on, even used a torque wrench (30lb) on the pump bolts.

Are there rubber mounts sandwhiched between the pump and and the transmission on those 4 bolts?

I thought I saw some as I pulled the pump apart but I must have imagined it because they disappeared when I went to reassemble.

I've not seen anything on those bolts and you don't have a transmission per say.
you have a hydro, you prolly mean the reservoir/differential housing.
do follow the manual adjusting your neutral setting on the bracket you had off that is attached to the hydro to diffy housing bolts.
be careful on starting so it don't lurch fwd/back, be prepared for it.
good idea to have rear wheels off the ground.
--------just a FYI:beerchug:

Yes it was creeping much more than usual aftrr i put it back together but i made it better, not perfect, with the adjustment.

Hardest part of the job was lining up the bolt hole in the chasis when putting it back together.

Thanks again.