Voltage regulator conversion
 

Long time since I’ve got the 126 started, life got in the way and she’s been stored outside for awhile. I’m currently rebuilding the starter generator, and the regulator is a fried Chinese thing. Has anyone used a solid state from a HARLEY FL 65-69, XLCH XLH SPORTSTER 75 76 77?
https://www.motorcityreman.com/h614.html

Well since Harley able is not a starter/generator system, I would think it would not workie at all,
but you can try anything ---- once :Explode:

Looking at the circuit it should. See pg 1-29. Why don’t you think it’ll work, what am I missing from the schematic?
https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/c...ervice+Man.pdf

Ok,
IIRR the Hardly was a 12V gear driven gen with conventional mechanical reg.
and it was an electric start so the amp output of the gen was a little higher than
the kick starts.
What i don't remember is if the amp output was similar to to the output of the cub start/gen.
The new Hardly reg being an upgraded solid state replacement, would be a good choice If it is compatible.
You could try it but if it lets the magic smoke out, it is a junk.
I would make sure if you are willing to chance that.
Make sure you have the Field excitation, Armature and batt terminals clearly sorted out.
Remember on a generator you are varying the field ground to produce charge.
Now you got me to thinking, if you go for it, do let us know how it goes good or bad.
"Coop" here likes those DB electrical guys, so why not contact them for their take
but you need more than a salesman for a good answer.:bigthink:

https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...1976-1980.html

This one is rated at 15amp and 12v. I’ll have to cut off the connector and download a schematic to determine wiring

I’m getting the specs from here
https://twinpower-usa.com/extradownl...ile/get/id/38/

https://store.alternatorparts.com/ib...enerators.aspx

What about something like this?

Cubby102, I looked at that one too but ruled it out because it is an “A circuit” and Cubs need a “B circuit”, but truthfully I need to research the differences. I also have concerns about being D+ connected to the shell as seen here:
https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et231.htm

Cubby102, I dug into the “A circuit” vs “B circuit” in my old books and I was mistaken. The "A" type system controls the output by regulating the field circuit to ground. The "B" type system controls the output by regulating the battery to field. I had them backwards, so I’m going to order the Bosch 30019 and post back in about a month. I’m in the middle of moving garage and shop around as I’ve got another building going up on the property around the end of August

In the remote chance any of the mentioned VR's would work.. Are they cheaper than after market cub vr? easier to get? DB Electric has them for 21$ WIth my amazon prime account I can get one for 24$ including next day free delivery.

Your money your tractor. Just seems like a lot of time will be spent figuring all this out and whats the payoff?

The Bosch is $30 from amazon with 2 day prime, so for $6 more for a better product possibly? The Last 2 V/R’s I got from DB Electric lasted just past their year warranty and would become unstable until they finally died. One actually had a contact stuck closed, cleaning it got it through the rest of the warranty. I’m looking for something that’s more reliable. I’ve been an avionics guy for over 22years and I’ve seen every generator system from Harley to light civil aviation go to solid state, with great benefits. I’ll keep y’all posted on how it plays out

If your voltage regulators are failing, perhaps you may have some other issue contributing to the problem. I would at least make sure all the wiring and connections are nice, clean, bright and tight!

Yes and I was around when we went to alternators on vehicles in the early
60's but retained mechanical regulators.
it was near 10 years before we went to electronic regulators, then improved and incorporated them in the alt.
and it was a good thing.
I reject a lot of 'lectronic stuff, but the internal regulated alt is a good thing.

George, I’ve thought of putting the latter Kohler stator, v/r, flywheel w/ ring gear, starter, bearing plate, shroud, and then cutting, widening, and welding in reinforcements.

Billy, the amp load on the system is too high and I believe it’s killing the field coils and regulator. I’ve got 2 65w headlights and a 36w backup light for blowing snow. Lights are being changed to 9w led par 36 bulbs dropping my load down to 3 amps from around 14 amps.

I’m doing this all to get a reliable electrical system, wire harness is over built with 10awg and 4awg, so just trying to builtproof this last weak link

The 14 amp draw I think is certainly what was causing VR to fail. The SG is rated for 15. With your power requirements dropping to 3 amps the stock system should be plenty ample. I think a stock VR will last much longer than the previous ones as well. Thinking about your lights. Those 3 lights should not have been dawing 14 amps. What else was running when you measured that amperage?

Cooperino, I had 166 watts with 3 lights, that’s all. It’s still too much, so that’s why I’m changing them

Normally, Cub Cadet headlights are two 35W sealed beams.

166 watts at 13.6 volts = 12.2 amps. Also par 36 lamps come in a variety of wattage. You can get them as low as 9 watts.. In any event if you were truly pulling 14 amps something else was drawing current. I would put an amp clip on the battery cables engine running with nothing on and check load.

Cooperino, never measured and used 166/12. My point is in all of this, is these rebuilt/Chinese s/g and v/r can’t handle 80% of their rated load longer then their warranty.

Current plan is change 3 par 36 to 9w led, rebuilding a Delco s/g, and putting on the Bosch 30019 v/r all in the hope of never having to mess with the electrical again

Dam,
I hope you are successful with the ss regulator, it would be a nice upgrade for an old skool system.
Today they do a lotta neat stuff.
The old ford flathead guys are getting a 12V (or 6V) Alternator built in what looks to be a plane old 6v. ford generator housing, sitting right in it's proper place on the engine.
One has to look close see it is not a plane ol' generator.
A wolf in sheep's clothes so to speak.
I guess if there is a need, and quantity is there for profit, it will be filled. :bigthink:

It's a good point. And in looking at the 30019 I think its a good fit as it is rated for 30 amps. What size battery are you going to install :bigthink: After all,, The battery is your source of power. The SG and VR just keep the battery happy. The load from the lights will pull the battery down. The SG and VR should put out rated load and be regulated to do no more than this. I have replaced most of my VR's with aftermarket ones. For a couple years I pulled a small trailer at Halloween time. The trailer had all kinds of lights and decorations all over it. I was also running an power inverter to run a stereo system. I had a second battery in place to handle the load but the SG and inverter were able to keep up as long as I was throttled up.

I think the system your planning on should work well. I would try to put the largest capacity battery in place possible. :beerchug:

As big of an Interstate as I can! Lol

BUMP,
any news on the solid state reg conversion?

I know this is resurrecting an old thread but I’ve done this conversion with success. I’ve done this to my Cub 147 and Sears SS12. I’m using a voltage regulator for a 1978 to 81 Harley Davidson Sportster. I would include pictures but don’t have a host site.

First, welcome to OCC ........... :Welcome2:

You don't need one.

Nice. As soon as I’m able I’ll upload some pictures.