Looking for a Starter/Gen Pulley
 

I'm looking for a Starter/Gen Pulley for my 127. Many other models will fit also. email me at mby852@yahoo.com

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...attach/jpg.gif

Cheapest one I saw on ebay. You might ask the seller for some ID measurements before purchase.

I would also suggest looking through the links at top of page.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-S...AAAOSw70Rc7IfI

I saw that one on eBay. I didn't like what I saw on that one. It looks like a crack on the end of the keyway slot. And from the backside the keyslot looks wider at the top unless it's the camera angle. I missed a good one a week ago on there and it went for a good price. I checked the sponsors. Theres a couple. I may have to go with one of them unless something else shows up.

Well, I dont know if cubs are plentiful where you live but I have purchased whole tractors for the price of that pto basket on Ebay before :biggrin2: maybe time to look at craigslist

I check there all the time. Once in a while a decent deal shows up but not that many here. There's an Original for $200 about 3 hrs from here that doesn't run that's been on craigslist for a few months. Everything else is priced beyond belief. Something will turn up sooner or later. The good thing is I don't really need the tractor for any yard work or anything right now.

Did you try our sponsors: Patton, Houtz, or Cub Classics ....???

:bigthink:

If you can’t find a decent one, Cub Cadet Specialties has a brand new old stock for sale. Not cheap though.

https://www.ccspecialties.org/pulleys.html

One other suggestion. The keyed hub bore is just tack welded in place I believe. I think I have seen weld in bores that are pre keyed in Mcmaster carr catalog. With some care and patience I bet I could cut an old one out and weld a new one in with enough precision that it would work well. This could very well be the most cost effective way to go.

I would carefully cut the old one out. Then I would chuck the new piece in my lathe. I would use a run out gauge while mounting the pulley to get it to run true and weld it in.

This could be done without a lathe but you would definitely need access to a welder. Mig welder would be my choice.

Here is a link to a company that has a bunch of weld in style keyed hubs.

https://redboarchain.com/products/1-...hoCA-EQAvD_BwE

Here are your part numbers:

Original Part #
IH-385290-R1

Superseded to Part #:
231591-S

A little bit cheaper:
https://www.ihccw.com/manualpto.html?product_id=2444

Cooperino, you are correct. It’s 4 tack welds:
Attachment 101708

I don't recall what the backside looks like. But doable in any case I think

Back side:
Attachment 101712

Cheapest I found, and brand new:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F372734924687

I seen that one. If money wasn't a problem I'd go for a new one.For another $60 I can get a whole tractor. Not that it might be any good but I'll be patient and keep looking.

I did. Patton has a used one and CCS has a new one. New one is more than I would spend but the used one isn't to bad.

I've seen some that looked like a sleeve was welded in. I appreciate your input on this. Unfortunately I'm a woodworker more than a metal worker. I think I may have a solution to get it on for now until I come across one. I do like the idea of getting a whole tractor though. I found another on FB for $250, a 123 that runs. As soon as I get some new tires on my trailer I might be making a road trip.

Here's mine.https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...1&d=1569245421

So, what is the issue with the one you have in those two pictures?
They look to be in good shape!

Check out the video I did yesterday on this pulley.
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=55905

I just watched the video. I think I would sock it down tight and run it. Worst thing that would happen i think is it might eat another key. You could check it from time to time to make sure it stayed tight. You could also possibly add another set screw but that would require drilling one more hole in the basket which is not a big deal really

Well until I come across another one I'm going to use that for now. I'm going to try and put in some very thin feeler gauge pieces to keep that wobble at bay before I tighten it down. I have the 2 set screws which I will get longer ones and add a jam nut to. I think that'll be good for now, hopefully forever.
I just wonder how long it was like that being used....:bigthink:

To answer your question in the video;
NO it should not have that much wobble side to side and front to back.
When I recently rebuilt my engine, I had to put a little anti seize on the crankshaft to get the pulley to slide back into positive. The pulley did not wobble side to side, it slid back over the key way, and took a little effort to do even that.

I like the shim idea. Any wobble you take out is bound to help. :beerchug:

Thanks! I sort of liked that idea too. I think 2 pieces 180 Degree apart and one on top of the key if it will take it and I should be good to go. I'll let you know how it works....:beerchug: