Long cranks and setting points, 124 k301
 

She's alive! I do have some concerns. K301. I tore it down to clean it up, put new headgasket on, reseal everything. I didnt take the engine completely apart. Just freshen up, with new points and such. So, she starts up but after long cranks, after maybe 8 cranks and she fires up slowly. I want to make sure I set my points right on the timing mark. Do i set it on the S or T mark at .020?

Once it is running, How does it run ? How is it at high rpm?

Set using S.

If using a timing light you dont set gap with feeler. You adjust until S is in center

It runs pretty well i would think. I'm not sure whata normal for these Cubs. This is my 1st one ever. At high rpm, it sounds like its misses a little bit.

Ok.. did you set the timing with a light to the S mark?

Also, did you use a new condenser?

While I am doing timing I usually check the high rpm also to make sure im at 3700 with no load. Some guys say 3600 But I like mine a bit higher

No, I set it with a feelers gauge, I cant remember which mark I set it at to. Everything is new. I do have a timing light I can use.

When the "S" mark is in the window the points should just be opening. Use an ohm meter or test light to find the point where they break (open). Setting .020 at the "S" mark has them opening way to soon.

He has a timing light. Just run it. Adjust points until S mark is in center

School me on that, this is something I never done. I done plenty of air cooled vw but cun cadet, I'm not sure if its same. So as it running, does it need to be at idle or wot, and at what part of the point do I move it so I dont mess the plunger up?

Loosen the screw just enough so when you use a screwdriver in the notch at the top of the points bracket you can move the points in and out but they will stay there until you tighten the screw. There is no timing advance so speed doesn't matter, just run it at a speed that is smooth so it's easier to adjust without the engine bouncing around. If you set the points at .020 at their most open position you will be pretty close to start with.

Sounds simple enough. Is 020 stock spec?

Yes. .020 is normal starting point. Heck, I set points to .020 for 30 years on my 108 before I learned about static timing. Always worked and ran fine.

Yup. What dart said. The reason I do it this was and not just set with feeler gauge is, Every engine is a little different. Some may run best at .018 and some at .022. Some right at .020 The difference is only a couple degrees of dwell on the points. But if everything is set up correctly it should run best with the S right in the middle of the hole. After you do this, measure your gap just for shits and grins and let us know what it turned out to be.

I'll give it a shot tomorrow!

With the 'S' in the center, the points should just be starting to break.
Do it with an ohm meter or a test light.

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...=static+timing

It runs much better and effortlessly. But still have long cranks before firing up. I have a digital timing light with a rpm built in, do I use 2 or 4 cycle option in the light?

Also, on the carb, it's new itself. I have the high idle screw set at 2 3/4 turns and the low idle screw set at 1 1/2 turns to get it running. What is the common settings on the carb? It does sounds like it's missing a little while wot

Missing could be the condenser.... It was mentioned near the beginning of this thread. Did you replace it when you replaced the points?

There are no "settings" for tuning. Set the carb sort of the way you did to get it to start then you tune it by ear and feel

All the tune up parts is brand new

Alright, all day today, I pretty much play and messed with it, drove around in my mountains until gas ran out. Wanted to see what spark plug looks like on one tank of gas and I use notbing but 93 octane in it. When i pulled the plug, it has black soot all over it. So I wiped it clean. What does black spot means? The low idle screw adjustment didnt seem to change anything.

It ran great overall, didnt try to die going up the hill.

Black means, weak spark, or rich condition.

Check your spark with a fresh plug outside of head or a spark tester. Make sure your getting a good strong spark.

BTW. What is your condenser connected to? positive side? or negative side?

Weak spark? Everything is new from a bundle package I bought from isavetractors.com. new ingtion coil as well. The condenser is connected to the negative side. I do notice when I drive it down the road, it does puff light smoke out of the exhaust under load. New ebay carburetor too. I still have my original carburetor.

Weak spark, OR RICH CONDITION. I would check the float. Make sure shes not flooding a little. I have had new carbs that I had to adjust the float.

Check float, got it. Does the float need to be leveled with the carb upside down?

I checked my air filter last night just for giggles and I found fuel collecting on the filter itself, it's slightly wet. So seem like float is flooding some. I'm going to check that after work today.

Sometimes on a carb new or old,debris' gets under the needle/seat from fuel line, hair etc. also check to see if the setting is close to correct as well as if the float is not damaged or has a hole in it.
The float should be level when carb is inverted,and you shouldn't need a new bowl gasket if you are careful in removal, as carb is new.
While the fellows have had good luck with off shore parts, some of the stuff I've seen were not what I'd call quality.
You do get what you paid for usually.
Luck :beerchug:

Sounds like your on the right track :beerchug: :IH Trusted Hand:

These tractors should start almost immediately w/just a slight bit of choke.
Started my 149 last night after sitting for a week and it was running almost before I could let go of the key.
Has been like this ever since I restored the rig 2 years ago.

SMACKS FOREHEAD!

Just a thought here. If you have your low idle set just so on these, and you have the throttle down, I've had ones that will almost be running to the same speed as the S/G.

What position is your throttle in while cranking? On my 126 if I dont remember to bring it up to about 1/4 throttle when starting it fools me sometimes.

Long shot, but maybe this is what yours is doing?

I wish mine would do that.

What does S/G means? My throttle sometimes have to be in the middle for it to start and sometimes choke doesnt do anything. I checked the float last night and it was very slightly off but I adjust it anyway. I'm going to put my original carb in a carburetor cleaner over night after taking it apart. Maybe it's the carb itself... but it runs pretty good once it fires up.

S/G starter/generator.
Deffinatly sounds like fuel issue
Choke not helping because your getting too much fuel

So, try lowering down the high side screw or the low side screw? What are the chances my S/G is not spinning fast enough?

I doubt the SG is the problem. Have you tried since adjusting float? I would try it with adjusted float first

I have last night, it was slightly off very little.

Off is off. If the filter was wet it was flooding. So how did it run after installing?

Runs the same.

Swap carbs and try it. You said before mixture screw did nothing right?

Right, it didnt seem to make a change at all no matter where that low side screw is set on. I'm taking it apart as we speak and letting it soak over night

So, as I was taking it apart and clean it, took the new carb off to compare stuff. I found the choke plate holes is different in size. Anything do with this?

Im going to put it back together and fire her up tonight and see how she does. Original carb is not that dirty but I blew through everything with my air compressor.

Choke plate would make no difference except for while choked. Perhaps it's incorrect carb? What part number carb did you get?