For my 149, need Hydro and Rear End advice
 

I am close to being able to start the engine on the 149 that i'm saving. Condition of the rear end and hydro are currently unknown. I'm looking for any advice or pointers on how to proceed.

Things i've done so far:
1) Forced release valves to the release position where they remained stuck and slowly pushed it about 50 yards into my garage. It may have been pushed/drug off the trailer a few weeks ago with the valves in the wrong position.
2) Popped rear plug out to check fluid level. It's definitely not up to the plug level but I can feel fluid when I stick my pinky down in the hole.
3) Took out release valves and worked them on the bench with wd-40/hammer/pliers to free them up. Put back on hydro and sprayed with more wd-40.
4) Observed that some of the bolts are missing behind the tires on both sides.

Based on y'all's expert advice should I top the hytran off and try it, replace fluid/filter and try it, or could there possibly be some damaged parts I will have to replace?
Are there any checks I can do right now to verify that the rear end is okay while I wait for my generator rebuild?

Often times the release buttons will pop back up when the engine is running.... So, besides the missing bolts, you really don't know what problems you really have until you run and test drive the tractor. Of course, you might consider changing the hydro oil and filter before firing up.

It takes a lot of foul play to mess up one of those. Jack the rear of the machine up so the tires are off the ground, pull the driveshaft off and hood up a drill to the input shaft of the hydro. Run the drill CCW rotation. You may need to fab something up so it will fit in your drill. Oh, WD40 isn't a penetrating oil, use PB Blaster or Kroil.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.

You will need a hefty drill motor to turn that input shaft!
Lots of torque needed for that operation.

Usually if it has a 3/4" chuck to turn the shaft, it has enough power,
but lacks the necessary speed.
Oh, and you run out of extension cord eventually :biggrin2:

149
 

Those rear ends are built heavy duty. Hardly ever hear of one going bad. Change the fluid and filter and go about getting it ready to run. I have 3 149's.
The 149 is an awesome tractor. Just wish they had power steering. Little hard to steer with a snow blower attached. Enjoy your tractor and have a great day.
Bob

Hey guys. Thanks for all the responses and feedback. I don't have a drill big enough to turn the shaft. I made a poor attemp to rig up something to my drill to turn the motor as the generator would. See attached pic.... Holds the generator pulley fine but barely enough tension on the belt to get the motor rpm going.

I have some hytran on order along with a hydraulic rated filter. I'll try and get the old drained out ahead of time and go ahead and change the engine oil too.

I don't have any PB Blaster here but mixed up some ATF and acetone to drop on the valves. They move MUCH better now.

Since you're not trying to start it, remove the spark plug so it spins easier. :beerchug:

Yeah. I should have removed it. I do hear compression though, which is a good sign.


I finally got the cover off. It took a good amount of force to break the gasket seal. The cover appears to have age lines just like trees have rings.

Watch putting the cover back on. The bottom 3 bolts are longer. You can crack the housing putting the longer ones on top.

Another cover that has not seen the light of day since it left the factory.
:beerchug:

Taking a look where the sun doesn't shine:biggrin2:

That gunk coating the inside of the gearcase and cover is the result of the Hy-Tran doing it's job encapsulating the moisture. That's the treason for using it in the 1st place

\Make sure you get it all out, don't want a lump of that crap getting sucked into your new filter.

BTW, you did get the correct filter or equivalent to a Cub Cadet 723-3014 I hope???

I did notice that those three were longer. Has anyone had problems with those three bolts holding up when using a plow on a sleeve hitch?

I plan on using a toothbrush or nylon scrub brush to scrub the solids with Solvent, Kerosene, or Diesel to help loosen it up.

The filter I ordered was WIX 51410. It says that it's a hydraulic filter. If this won't work, let me know so I can order the right one.


Bringing light to where the sun don't shine! :beerchug:

I was able to get all of the sludge cleaned out today. I used a wire brush, some PSC1000 and brake parts cleaner. Now I'm waiting on gasket/filter/hytran.

There is a debate on the 51410 filter. The Cub part number crosses to that number. But if you look up on the Wix website it lists a 51084. The filters are the same except the 51084 has an anti drain valve. So the question would be does the Cub filter have an anti drain valve in it? If it does it hen the 51084 would be correct. If it doesn’t then the 51410 would be correct. I don’t know the answer. If it were me I’d go with application rather than crossover.

I would like to hear more about the debate on the filters. I remember reading somewhere that you want to use a filter without the anti drainback valve for full flowing hydraulics but I can't remember where I read it. I pulled the information on this snip image directly from the Wix website to compare the two filters.

Attachment 103833

My understanding of the anti-drain back valve is that when a filter is positioned is a position other than vertical it prevents the filter from draining and causing a dry startup. The filter on the Cub is horizontal and without actually measuring, it appears the top level of the reservoir is slightly below mid level of the filter.

Ok. With that on the table i'm going to continue with my initial hydraulic filter I selected.



Got the filter installed last night. My rear end gasket should arrive today then I can button everything up. I was planning on doing the first test drive today but the stripped out spark plug hole had other plans for me. I'm waiting on a ebay pull off head to come in also.

The Wix 51410 is the correct replacement for the Cub Cadet filter.

I use the 51410 also. I called Wix yesterday and told them of the discrepancy. They suggested going by the application instead of the crossover. Of course their application in 51084. Charlie Proctor once stated that the 51410 is for aluminum rears and the 51084 is for cast rears. Don’t see why that would make a difference. I’ve never had a problem with the 51410 and will continue to use it. I was just pointing out the contradictions.

I just go to the Green store and get their purdy black filter with yeller numbers for about $8. :biggrin2:

Hydro is alive and well
 

I got the Cub started today with the sparkplug barely holding on by one thread. The hydro works great and rear end is also fine driving it around the driveway. I turned it off for a second to get off since it creeps forward slightly with the brake pushed down. When I cranked it back up it blew the plug out the hole!! Now, won't get to do a working test until my replacement head arrives.

Thanks for all the pointers!

Replaced gasket, no reverse
 

I replaced the small cork gasket between the hydro and the rear end housing. Now I only have forward capability. With the lever forced all the way to the reverse position, it barely stops the tires from moving. I still have another leak from the hydro housibg so its coming back out to replace the big gasket.

I had to replace the transmission control plate and the pivot bracket due to both of them being damaged and hacked together.

I tried the adjustment procedure of sliding the pivot bracket down like in the manual but that really didn't change anything. Whats next as far as adjustments?

The attached pictures show the linkage in forward, reverse, and brake position.

So, I replaced the big gasket between the aluminum and metal on the hydro unit. Put Hytran back in and started it up and I STILL have a leak. :bash2: Since I cleaned the whole unit with brake cleaner I was actually able to see where the leak is coming from now. It's leaking from the drivers side trunnion seal. I am ordering the SU-15 Hydrostatic Pump rebuild kit PN/ 9510172 and just going to go through and replace all of the seals on the unit. This will be the third and last time I pull the hydro from the 149.

Looking forward to this.
Should be interesting.

:Pray::popcorn:

I got the hydro out today and pretty much disassembled on the bench. Plan on putting everything in the parts washer to clean up while I wait for the kit to come in. Now for the pics.

Split the hydro assembly.

E clip holding this on.

I followed the service manual instructions for disassembly. Except for using a wood block to work on.

Needle bearings look good. I used a flathead and pliers to pull the dried out seals out.

All seals removed. To be continued. Next step, parts cleaning.

Make sure you mark the valve plates and put them back in exactly the same way you took them out don't drop the pistons and put them back in the
same bore they came out of,put the charge inner and outer rotor back in the same way it came out.
Don't drive the swash plate shaft pin out too far or yer screwed.
best to follow the manual and multiple video's on diss/ re assy.
Otherwise you will be getting another hydro on ebay.
Make sure you check the roller bearing surface on the output shaft gear for pitting, they tend to wear there.
----done a few :BlahBlah:

Your braver than I am. That looks like a real hand full.

I'll be watching how the rest of your tractor comes together. I thought my 149 was rough but yours has mine beat. But I had to pay for mine.

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=55868

Yikes. I have already mixed up the little individual pistons. I took them out to clean them in the parts washer. I didn't see any wear on any of them so I hope I can be lucky and make it work. OR should I go ahead and search up Ebay for a replacement hydro unit now that they've been mixed up? I haven't gotten around to checking the roller bearing on the output shaft so thanks for the heads up on that one!

Yep. I've successfully rebuilt several automatic transmissions so I figure I'd give the tractor world a try. Headed over to check out your 149!

It's working!!
 

Just to follow up to this thread. The rebuilt Hydro is working strong with no leaks!!! Drove it all around and through my field and used it to move a 149 parts tractor around on 3 flat tires with great pulling power.

I have a remaining items I have to do related to the hydro. The first is to figure out how to adjust it to where the hydro sits in full neutral when the brake is pressed. Currently it wants to go forward when I push the brake to the floor.
The second issue is that while I'm driving, the lever will sometimes creep towards full throttle if I go over a good bump.

Wow that's cool! Makes me wonder why 2 years ago everyone here told me to buy a replacement for my 107... because this is clearly evidence that I could have acquired a replacement piston assembly and rebuilt the pump... Oh well, nothing I can do about it now. Good to see someone doing hydro rebuilds despite the fact that it seems frowned upon... not sure why, there's an entire section in the repair manual dedicated to hydro pump maintenance

:bigthink:

Fried: My last twenty eight working years were spent rebuilding hydraulic components and I've certainly done a hundred Sundstrand hydro stats. The advice to not mix up the pistons with respect to bores is normal, but if they are all in good condition, then it doesn't matter. Where most home rebuilders screw up is getting the charge pump on backwards. Or trying to "resurface" the lens plates and barrel faces. You obviously got it right!! Nice work.

Yeah. I was taking a blind chance at getting it but it seemed as if everything was kept clean, it would work out okay for me. Other than mixing up the pistons I had no issues.

Ambush, Thanks!! This was a major step forward in my 149 project. Do you have any recommended online sources for replacement rubber hydraulic hoses for the lift cylinder?