A 1912 running a QA42-A?
 

It's getting colder, so I'm starting to think of snow season. Last year we did not get a blowable snow, barely a plowable snow. This spring I sold my 551 blower, because it's just huge and I really struggled to mount it. My plan was to use a QA42 on my 122 tractor, but the guy I sold the 551 to (he's a member here) gave me a re-painted disassembled QA42-A. I was thinking about running it on my red 782 but I sold that over the summer, and then I acquired an 1811 for free but it had a blown engine. Considering it had 3700 hours on it, everything was pretty worn on it, so I opted to part out what I could and scrap the rest. That leaves me with a green tractor, an 1872, 1912, and a 122 now. My 122 has the snow blade bolted on, and I didn't really want to get into messing with swapping the implements back and forth, especially with that one being a pin on setup. I have both pulley sizes so I could switch it if I needed to, but it has the bigger belt pulley on it currently. So, here we go... I decided to look around and see if anyone has mounted a QA42-A on a 1912/982 and used it. It looks like the general consensus is it can be done with some mods, the main issue being the left front wheel hits the chain cover when you turn, and the height. I decided to mount it up and see what I have, and with the blower all the way down, it was pretty close to the ground. I have stones so I'd be using the skids anyway, so that's not all bad. The only issue is with turning then. I was also thinking it might be an issue that the tire width is way out there at the edges of the blower, so it might be an issue with the wheels sticking out at the edge in general in a deep snow.

This got my wheels of creativity turning, which are a little rusty... I have some GT wheels laying in my garage, extra (a few sets actually) and my 1912 needs front tires anyway and the rims don't look so great due to rust. So I mounted the GT wheels on the SGT spindles on the front, and I found that I need a 1/4" x 1" ID spacer on the inside of the wheel because the spindle is a little longer. For now I kept the rear 26x12's on it, but I'm thinking about bolting some 23x10.50's on there, so it'll basically be a stretched GT (make it unique!). I think the 26x12's will be too wide also, like the super front wheels. I think it would be better if the wheels are narrower than the blower. It would have the SGT reduction gear setup in it, and cast iron rear. I have chains and weights for both sets of rims. This tractor has the 3 point hitch on it too, so I could go back to the bigger wheels in the summer for the ground breaking work if I need to...

The only think I think I'll need to do to make this work is make the lift arm on the blower longer to reach above the axle. I bolted a sleeve hitch strap to the side of it to test fit and see how it would look going up and down...

pics to follow... :popcorn: After I typed this all out on my PC I realized my phone hasn't synced my pics up in several days... that's an issue for another forum. :biggrin2:

Here are the pics, with SGT front wheels:
Attachment 106277

Attachment 106278

Attachment 106279

And with GT front wheels:
Attachment 106280

you might need the curved upper parallel arms, as the straight ones might hit on the spread frame as the thrower is raised fully up.
I just bent mine and added, seems like an inch so the holes could be re drilled.
I've posted pix's but have no clue how to find them, but they should be here on the forum.

Thanks George. I’ll see what happens when I get it all put back together. It’s just reassembled enough to sit there at the moment. I’ve seen those curved arms before so I know what you’re talking about.

What size pulley do you have on the blower now?

It’s the 5/8”

is it the correct diameter?.

I assume it is, it looks just like the PTO pulley, size wise.

Kewl! :biggrin2:

Well tomorrow is go time. I’m ready to blow... the 16x6.50’s on the front give just enough clearance between the left front wheel and the blower driveshaft with the wheel turned to the right. I had to run three 1” bushing washers on the axle to take up the space because the axle spindle is longer on the supers. I used one behind and two out front behind the axle bolt. It’s about 1/4” that needs taken up. I couldn’t put all three washers behind the wheel because it made the tire closer to the driveshaft on full turn to the right. I don’t have a permanent solution for the lift arm yet so I’m still using a sleeve hitch lift strap temporarily. I started up the engine and hit the PTO and everything works, so I’m excited. We’re in 18-24” here. That’s gonna be a lot for the first run with this setup.

Attachment 106557

Attachment 106555

Attachment 106556

Well, it worked... but I have some issues to attend to. We only got about 8"-10", with some drifts that were deeper. For the most part, the thrower worked well.

One is not the equipment's fault. I have a stone driveway that was redone this spring, and the stones aren't completely packed down yet, and there were some high spots. Generally I try to blow leaving about 2" and then clean the rest up with the blade. I blew a lot of stones.

The biggest issue was belt slippage, in the real deep stuff where it drifted the snow sifted down and was heavier, it is dry powdery snow, but the drifts are compacted. It tended to cause the belt to slip, and slow down the auger, and then jam the chute. I had to get off countless times, unjam it, and then snug up the belt tension. By the time I was done, my 5/8" belt is now about a 1/2" belt. The pulley alignment is pretty good, except I have an angle because of the engine being mounted on an angled plate. I read about this issue on another thread.

The next biggest issue is the muffler output blowing on the chute, making it get hot and melt the snow on the way out and it was causing slushy snow to build up. The two stage blower I had didn't have this issue, I'm thinking it's because the chute is offset to the side opposite the exhaust, and the single stage is right over the middle for the "paddles" to throw the snow, much closer to the exhaust.

The last issue is easily correctible and that's my lift arm situation, which is temporary anyway.

I've seen some models that had a piece of metal between the engine heat/ muffler exhaust,
and the discharge chute effectively being a diverter, I'm sure someone will post a pix.
Is your belt adjuster backing off? :bigthink:

Thanks George.

Curious about the heat deflector idea.

The adjuster doesn't seem to be backing off, I have seen posts talking about that being an issue. Each time I had to adjust it the adjuster got closer to the end of the threaded rod. So I think it's the belt being eaten up. I didn't get a cheapo belt, it was a NAPA Gates 5L360W.

I could just mount this on my 122 and solve all those problems, but the super gets such good traction with chains and the dual brakes. Plus, my 122 does not have a creeper, so I'm afraid even first gear would be too fast. My plan all along was to run a blower on the 122, but I'm kinda addicted to the guaranteed traction and massive power of the super. The M20 didn't even break a sweat. Or I could wait for a 364 or 450 to pop up for sale, but those are like hens teeth, especially now.

That 20Hp makes a lot of heat, so does my m-18
Here is a shield idea:
page 10 of manual:
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/pdf/19...wner%20Man.pdf
:beerchug:
I have mine blocked off on the 782 and duct the heat into the cab. :biggrin2:

Oh,
Bet cha a dollar to a donut yer adjustment is backing off, hell they all do.
I just drilled a little hole in my handle and use a piece of wire to secure it.
or lookie here: post 13

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...t=58024&page=2

:Duh: I've seen that shield before in snow thrower pictures. So THAT's what that's for.

I don't have a cab, but my wife says I make my own hot air. :biggrin2:

Something that just popped into my mind. I had to replace the pulley because it was way out of alignment and rusted tight to the shaft so I had to remove it with some force (heat and steering wheel puller) and the pulley broke so I had to get another one quick from Tractor Supply since I didn't have time to order one. They had 4" and 5" so I went with 4", since the stock one is 4.5". Would that half inch smaller pulley be causing slippage? I wouldn't think 1/2" would make that much difference as far as belt grip but I guess that's possible. I didn't want to go bigger because it would turn the auger a little slower.

I have a 6" PTO clutch on the shelf, maybe I could upgrade the pulley to a 6" and get all kinds of belt grip... :biggrin2:

The 1/2" smaller Dia will speed up the blower a bit as you know, but will work the belt/engine a little more as expected.
The extra speed is welcome throwing the wet stuff but just keep the governor wide open and adjust your feed/speed accordingly.
You will prolly smell/hear the belt when it is slipping.
I doubt the extra 1/2" diameter will afford a noticeable difference in grip.
I run a 4" Browning pulley, and 1 tooth more on the drive sprocket, so my auger is running faster.
Oh,
Most ppl destroy the pulley removing it, don't feel bad.
'they are down in the moisture and road salt don't help either.:BlahBlah:
I think Browning makes a nice quality cast iron pulley, try surplus center.com
Stick yer finnner in the PTO pulley groove and feel if you have a worn groove.
it should be a nice "V" if it is worn into a "U" that is where you not only loose grip but wear belts fast!
Now don't be stickin' yer finner in the "groove" while it is running or been running recently because you will have a rough time explaining to yer honey how you got yer finner hurt in a "groove" yall been warned about :biggrin2:
FWIW:
fellers complain about mule drive belt wear and a lot of time it is because the mule pulleys and the PTO no longer are "V" but worn into a "U"
The short 1/4 twist, between the PTO pulley and the mule pulleys cause a lot of wear and contribute to it.
Most of these machines are 40++ years old and the PTO pulleys are in need of replacement. :BlahBlah: :BlahBlah: :BlahBlah: