My 123 "fix up"
 

well, (edit) got it for $100 (not 75). Flat tires, rotted tower base, seat shot, tree growing thru carb linkage, and all...

Just dragged it out of storage today and while still on the trailer, saw that it has oil (black, but its oil) zapped the starter with jumpers, and spun it. The points had cob webs and crud and points cover was loose maybe even no screw at the bottom. I Ran some 320 sand paper to get them conducting again and now they work until I can get new points.

Squirted some oil into the cylinder too...

It cranks. Feels like it has compression but my gauge read zero. I think its the gauge and maybe low compression or even the compression release is actually working. Dunno. but the thumb test showed enough that it might start briefly (carb is a disaster). And it did start, on ether.

Oh, the hydro apparently works at least somewhat since it tried to go backwards when cranking, then I put the lever forward and it went forward when cranking and neutral worked too.

I'll have to bite the bullet and get tires tho... all shot.

This is fun!

Here is a HOW NOT TO for starting a long-sitting K301! But it was fun!


https://youtu.be/Xr2QV0ghMJc

Great price..Nice project cub. Good luck.

Now that's the kinda deal I gotta find. Good luck, have fun, keep us posted.

I've started many engines on carb cleaner. About 1/3 price of Ether and works just fine.

lol that's great!


just pulled the carb, its not salvageable. ordered a chinese knockoff on amazon for $17, crap shoot but we'll see.

the throttle cable freed right up with PB blaster, very cool. gotta order some tires next. I started a topic on some 4 ply BKT trencher (ag) treads for $64 each, if anyone says they are good I'll get those and find something for the fronts.

I had a compression gauge once that read 35 lbs. on 5 different engines
till it dawned on me maybe the gauge was kaputt. I am a little slow at
times. New tractor looks like a great way to spend some time, enjoy.

Ken

Thanks Ken I know what u mean, I dont spot the obvious at times too... then it's DUH! :eek:

Got the steering wheel off, and unbolted the tower to fix the rotted bottom - side bolts and all the 7/16 bolts. Cant lift it until the Hydrostatic lever is out and it has pins and a spring coupling etc. Whats the best way to separate that hydrostatic control shaft inside the tower?

There are 4 bolts at the bottom of the lever assembly that attaches to the frame have to be removed. You did not have to remove the 7/16 bolts. Then disconnect the linkage where it connects to the rod that goes on the tranny.
Removing the steering column helps. Then lift the tower off, very easy.

Muffler question
 

thank u minion, will look when the storm passes. I think I found a better tower but he is not sure which cc its from. pic looks the same, so i want to bring mine.

Now I have a muffler question since this one has a threaded stub threaded into the exhaust port thats cut off. I can get a pancake muffler or such from TSC but some cubs have a long big muffler across the front of the engine exiting above the SG. Those look to be $50 (aftermarket). Doesn't show the attachment piece.

First, are those a lot quieter than the shorty / pancake little ones? (I would think so) and what's that piece? Any other muffler input appreciated

That is the muffler used on all the narrow frames except the Original, 70, 71, 72, and 73. The cut off piece on your 123 was a 90 degree elbow that faced downward to allow installation of that muffler. I do believe it is quieter than the ones from TSC, my 106 runs pretty quiet with the stock muffler setup, as a matter of fact it's the quietest!

My Original's got the tall vertical pipe (also from TSC) and it's loud, the 107 has a stock muffler but with an extra pipe extension, and removed upper bracket to allow for vertical placement outside the hood. That isn't quiet either, though it could be the fact that the muffler is decently rotted out internally.

But the 106, with it's completely stock setup, runs nice and smooth and quiet. I highly recommend you replace the cut off elbow and buy the correct muffler.

https://www.ihccw.com/image/cache/ca..._2-215x215.JPG

elbow looks like that

Thanks 107! May have found that exhaust elbow locally and ordered a new crossmount muffler off ebay.

Also, ordered a set of 3500lb spindles and 5x4.5" hubs to do the front spindle upgrade. About to get a set of 5.70x8" 5-bolt load range D wheel/tire set. That should handle all the punishment that a loader can deliver and then some. In fact the center pin or something else would fail first.

Gonna hit my friend's junkyard and look for the smallest power steering box I can find. Tomorrow or Mon should have a rust free tower as well. (Fingers crossed he has the same one, bringing mine to match it up)

By then, the engine tune up kit will show up and I can mount the new carb, change the oil, and give it a good run.

Oh and it seems Fedex may have lost my new ag rears!!!!! Says "delivered". NOPE! Already opened a case with them...

Its getting there.. keep up the good work.

Those are are good upgrade, if it were me I would upgrade the axle to a one from a 82 series tractor as I am sure the original one has been damaged by the mule drive pulleys rubbing on them, and also beefing up the pivot point will help.

Did you ever get the dash tower off?

LOL I wish! We had a Noreaster blow thru and now its much colder but thats todays project hopefully (working outside). Found a tower about an hour away and need this one to match it up as he doesnt know what it came from. I dont know what other models have the same tower as a 123.


In fact here's a pic in case anyone recognizes it.

Yeah that's the right one, see what else you can get while your there.

Cool thanks that helps. Tower is free! Lotta rust required patient persuasion on the linkage clevice pin. But got the column out, then freed the hydro linkage, then the tower came right off as u said it would.

When it gets warm again this could use a good power wash then address the rust and pitting temporarily wire brush, prime and rattle can paint. In the future when the 100 is done (and I know how to paint properly!) This can be stripped down and properly restored. In warm weather next year.

For now, hopefully get it running and looking at some used snow plows of various brands for 50-100 range. None have the CC framework but can fab that.

It looks a little rough but it does seem to be hanging in there. Or least its just hanging. :)

Just surface rust and some pitting. The tower is being replaced everything else needle scaler and primer maybe a skim coat of hard filler...

Dang the base of that tower was bad. Whole thing seems to have crumbled apart.

I spotted another issue with your old dash tower, too...

There's an ammeter in it! :biggrin2:

The 123 did not come stock with an ammeter, so someone at some point drilled a big hole right in the center of the dash to mount it...

Yes the previous owner said he installed the ammeter years ago.

Which brings me to another question I believe I read somewhere that the L on the voltage regulator actually stands for "light" and somehow there is a possibility for a charging light where the light stays off when the generator is generating a charge into the battery but comes on if that stops. Just like the old dash "generator light" in our cars back in the day.

I could be wrong about that and I'll have to look into it but it would be nice to put a little indicator light to show if the charging system develops a problem.

Also I did check the hydro fluid and it's almost to the top in the differential and looks Tan in color, maybe it smells a little bit burnt and I don't know if there's water on the bottom either until it gets changed but at least it's encouraging that it was plenty of fluid and looks kind of normal...

IIRC, the "L" terminal is not for an indicator light, but rather for "load". The concept of it is that it would be wired up to something that would put a "load" on the electrical system or specifically the battery. This way, the voltage regulator could use this terminal to take electricity from the starter-generator and send it directly to the load, therefore decreasing strain on the battery.

The 2 main examples of this load are lights, and electric lift. :beerchug:

It's good that the hydro fluid still seems somewhat normal, means there's less of a chance that anything is broke :biggrin2:

Got the "better" tower. Deep pits had been painted but at least not rot thru. At least not all the way thru! The welded tabs have expanding rust, so they'll have to be reworked but its better than i got. Also, new rear tires and tubes showed up. The tune up stuff showed up. And the front stub spindles and 5 bolt hubs from ebay are on the way... no frt tires yet, looking for some 5 bolt 8" wheels and 16x6.50-8 tires that are hopefully load range D

Still gonna be on lookout for a truly rust free tower. What models also had this tower? 122? (dont need the hydro lever hole going with foot control) Others?

oh, now he tells us, :bash2: a 102 122 will work...

LOL what didnt I tell u? just saw the actual shape of the tower. Its still better, has a throttle and was $20 bucks!

Also, ordered a couple wheel/tire combo from eTrailer. 5.70x8 Load Range C - 5 lug about $75 to my door for the pair. Later I'll source the widers but these will be bolt ons no mounting needed and fairly cheap.

That you were putting a footsy control on it, then you could have used one from a 102 or 122...

AHHH! Thanks hadnt even thought about that making more of them work!

just got this one (102/122) thanks again for the advice! :beer2:

Couple Uh Oh's
 

well I've made a couple mistakes. One is minor, the tower just showed up and the seller didnt show the bad parts which is expanded rust in the batt box mounting tabs. Everything else looks pretty good. I can fill or use the ammeter hole someone put in it. I can air chisel the rust-expanded tabs apart, clean, and fix them.

The other uh oh, is my 5.70x8 tires/rims showed up. I was surprised how tall they are. Assumed the 5.70 meant width and the height would be pretty close to the 4.80's. Apparently not!


4.80x8 16.1" diameter
16x6.50x8 optional wide fronts 16" diameter

what i bought - 5.70x8 18.1" diameter

All may not be lost. I am making custom HD spindles anyway hence the 5-bolt front wheels. So the spindles can be welded on 1" higher. Need to check the swing of the tires, may have to move them outward a bit to get the same steering circle..


Anyone fixed those "expanded rust" tower tabs, and anyone messed with 5.70's on the front?

Wow that was fast. After typing about an air chisel, I remembered that I have cold chisels so I went into the shop and decided to just see what could be done. Chiselled the rust right out and the spot welds still holding. I can treat with rust converter, paint, hammer back together and call it good! The last pic shows one hammered closed again... :beerchug:

well, ya got one thing solved. :beerchug:

The replacement dash had an ammeter drilled into it too? Wow must have been a high need for ammeters in your area.

As for tires, I have absolutely no clue because none of my tractors run new tires. I mean I'm sure you could still make those tall ones work, IIRC the narrow tires that would come stock on the smaller Cubs (O, 70, 71, etc) were a little taller than the wider ones.

Well the first one came from Massachusetts, but I dont know where b4 that. The one from ebay I just posted pics of was from Newville, Penna... (west of Carlisle). By the way the seller posted pics on ebay strategically taken so as not to see the rust sandwiches! Good thing they seem quite easy to fix :)

Not sure if I'd fix the hole or just stuff that ammeter into it... :bigthink:

People are sneaky like that, trying to make things seem better than they really are.

As for ammeter, I personally would weld up the hole, paint, and replace the dash decal, but that's just me :biggrin2:. Having the ammeter might actually be helpful anyways. Always good to know that your tractor is actually charging.

You need to cut the spot welds, not beat it to death with a chisel.
Check with your auto parts store, they can get you a spot weld cutter for your in a hand drill motor.

Spot weld cutter. Hmmm. I didnt even know these were spot welded until I opened them up. And I didnt know about spot weld drills either. I'll grab one at HF. Maybe then even make a larger battery tray that can accept a small car battery since there more choices that way, more cranking amps etc

Ok well the HF spot weld drill worked fantastic, except only for one hole before it broke up. But the concept is great, thanks for the education. :beerchug: I ended up just drilling them out, hammered the tabs straight, and cleaned with a light grinder treatment. We now have a Metal Supermarket and they have a bending press that goes up to 16ga IIRC. I'll see about making a bigger battery tray in 3 pieces the bottom and sides, a back piece to hit the tabs and a front to retain the battery. Looks like a Group 34 might do, gotta make sure it doesnt come too far forward. Not sure if gonna weld the new tray back in (dont have a spot welder just a stick welder) or maybe short SS bolts or some kind or low profile type of machine screw.

All my tractors start just fine with a decent L&G size battery.

If you need a car size battery to start your Cub, I would suggest a good tune up starting with static timing.

I agree not use big battery in place of proper tune. But the LG batts dont seem to last (going by reviews) if I go to a common car batt size (which I think the early cubs had), then I can get an AGM or otherwise high quality battery that will go many years. Also, IF the tune does get poor and I need to move some snow b4 servicing the problem, I wont have to jump it. It even adds a little more weight to balance the loader.

Well, it's not the best logic but now is the time to make the upgrade!

I'd love to hear some input on the 5.70's. I think they are just too tall for the front and even if I raise the spindle location by an inch to get the frame level again, they just dont look right anyway! Thoughts??? Now's the time on that too... :bigthink:

OK not doing the 5.70 fronts. Prob be 4.80's and then widers later.

Procured a power steering pump and cylinder today very happy. One step closer. The hubs and spindles got lost by USPS so the seller sent me a replacement set due tomorrow. As soon as weather permits, I'll do the spindle upgrade and then start fitting the PS gear.