Information on 1512
 

Hi New to this have a 1810 and is a workhorse around here. Only problems have been mice building in the starter. I found a 1512 in the area and am looking for information on the problems with this model. For the year if not taken care of could be a major headache? High price. Does not want to budge from 1200. Joe

1200 is not high for a diesel. That's a pretty good deal, actually. The driveshaft is the biggest maintenance issue. If the tractor has a vibration at full throttle, the driveshaft will need to be gone through, which isn't a fun job, and it'll probably cost $200+ depending on how much needs to be replaced. The fuel filters will need to be replaced and the tank may need cleaning out. I have a 782D and used to have a 1512, and both were/are fairly trouble-free, particularly the engines.

Matt G Thank you for the information. Joe

I have a 1512 diesel and that diesel is great working and uses verry little fuel.
I have replaced my driveshaft with a cv joint system from a much newer ttractor and now its even better than stock.$1200.00 for a 1512 Diesel is not much if it runs and can be driven and used. I would buy two more at that price lol. Later Don T

Don T, I'm interested in the cv joint you used. Is there a write up on it somewhere?

j knight, I've owned my 1512 for over 15 years. I think it was used commercially for its first 8 years because the hour meter was replaced. I relocated the battery to a custom built tray on the back and use a 1000 CCA auto battery. The drive shaft is the only other weak point in the tractor. The 50 inch mowing deck does a poor job and is prone to skipping between the blades when turning. Snowblowing is a blast. The throttle cable used to freeze up until I started heating the shop. Take the fuel tank off and clean it. Keep up the fluid changes enjoy the torque and fuel efficiency.

PeterJ

Second that. Sounds like a good mod.

Peter is talking about the poor starter/battery performance these diesel models exhibit. The problems can be helped by adding a second ground, but if you really want to solve the problem, check into the "gear reduction starter upgrade." Once this is done, you won't need to hang a car battery on it or hack up the battery tray. I now use a 300cca garden tractor battery and it has all the power needed. With a more efficient starter, you won't need a big battery. Coincidentally, I just posted this how-to video on youtube within the last few days:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQyd41Q_yoY

I agree with the other posters as well: These diesels barely use any fuel, have lots of torque, and are only happy with a very clean fuel system. $1200 is a good price if the tractor is currently running well and is in decent shape. I backed into mine, and if I ever come across another one....SOLD!

The CV joint driveshaft from the later Cyclops models can be adapted to the diesel to eliminate the driveshaft wear issues that the diesels exhibit. The CV joint driveshaft will have to be lengthened, a 1782/2182 front coupler will have to be purchased (or something similar made...for what the new one costs, it'd be worth the time to make one if you have a lathe) and either the hydro pump will have to be swapped with one from a cyclops that has the splined input shaft, or the rear coupler adapter from a 1535 can be used to keep the original hydro pump. I checked into it, and that little part is expensive. I have about 2/3 of a CV driveshaft that I'd like to put in my diesel, but I don't have one of the joints, and all this stuff is way too expensive to buy new, so I guess I wait for another parts tractor.

Hey Matt,

If these machines spend most of their time mowing grass, will the drive shaft wear be much of an issue? I eventually want to get a box blade and maybe a snow plow, but for now I'm just harvesting grass.

Whaddya think?

The two I've had only mowed grass, and both had bad driveshafts. I don't think it matters what you do with them.

Thanks for posting the video Saturn V! That is how that motor should turn over! I never have looked into the ground issue either. It always starts good with the big battery but does not spin as fast as yours.

Any insight to share on the starter you used? I have to say, I would not be comfortable with only 1mm clearance on that big positive battery cable. I will have to bust out the welder and cutting torch to really mod out that motor mount if and when I upgrade the starter.

Speaking of the motor mount, it seems pretty close to the starter. I have no idea how much the motor moves. Could the bolt be turned the other way?

Thanks again for posting the video. I never thought of changing the starter to a different model.

Absolutely PeterJ, hope it is helpful.

I was a bit unsure about the clearance myself, but it really is enough. No way to turn the starter over, due to the shape. I don't think the motor can move enough against its mounts to cause a short. I would definitely do the ground wire update. If yours is still original, you probably just have a single wire running to the air cleaner bracket, which is insulated somewhat by rubber mounts. It's a really poor ground.

Here are the numbers on that starter from my comments section:

The part numbers for this starter: 2-2658-ND & 18400NN

I have seen references on ebay auctions to: 2658 &18400N

I paid $86 + shipping. You will not find compatibility numbers for the 882, 782D or 1512. Also, one last word on this: Ground wires are everything. Before you undertake this, first make sure your engine block is fully grounded. A CC service bulletin suggests adding a 2nd ground of larger gauge wire.

SaturnV, are those Kubota #s?

I requested a copy of the service bulletin from another member on here. Also, I briefly looked at my 1512 (1986 model?) tonight with a flashlight and my motor mount bracket is heavier than yours. I have one motor mount bracket that connects to all four motor mounts. Drilling a BIG hole shouldn't be a problem. It will be nice to go back to the original battery location.

I dig working on dirt bikes but am kinda getting hooked on updating the old Cub. I wish I could find a better deck, leaf bagger, power steering, a three point hitch.........

;)

Saturn V,

Is it possible that the starter you put on is also a generator? Is that what the other wire is for?

PeterJ

Saturn V,

Is yours like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-S...Q5fAccessories

Does the drive gear stay engaged while the engine is running?

PeterJ

Yep, that ebay link is the one.

Not a generator, just a starter.

If I understand correctly, the white simply provides a continuous current during cranking, for instance the glow plug circuit (not direct power, mind you).

Interesting info on the motor mount. I was under the impression the 782D, 882 and 1512 were one in the same, save the paint job and stickers.

I'm on the hunt for the rest of my 3-point hitch as well.

:beerchug:

Saturn V,
I think I was mistaken in stating my engine mount is different. Is yours like this?
http://cubcadetparts.arinet.com/scri...%20144-882-399

That link puts up a blank page with the word "undefined."

Here's a drawing of the motor mount from Parts Tree. As you can see, the mounts are made of of several pieces. Part #4 is the left hand mount, and the right (not shown) is what I removed to cut the hole in. There are a number of holes already punched out of these mounts, so you have to be careful adding another. The lower section of the mount, #1, does not need modification. Bolt #5 is the reason the engine must be raised up to get the mounts off. It sits below #1 when assembled.

http://www.partstree.com/images/diag...ilRO=0&ilSC=26

Saturn V,

The picture you posted is what was on the link I posted. As far as I can tell, that is what mine looks like. Thanks again for all of your help. Sorry about all of the confusion.

PeterJ

Not at all. Check back in when you get yours done, or if you need any more assistance. I'll periodically check back on this thread.