129 won't start
 

Cranks ok at first, then gradually slower. Just took the battery over to the local auto parts store to be checked. They claim it's fully charged, etc. and yet, immediatly after trying to start the tractor, everytime I hook my charger back on, the reading goes back up to 6-7 as opposed to 2-3 if I leave it on for a few minutes. Petcock is open and everything else should be fine. Last time it ran was late September. The entire electrical system is only a few years old. Any suggestions?

If the battery truly is fully charged and the starter is functioning properly, then the only other thing is the wiring between the battery and starter.

If you have a high resistance connection in the starter circuit, it could produce the symptoms you describe. It will get hot when you try to start it and the more you try to start it, the hotter it will get. As it gets hotter, it's resistance will increase.

After you try to start it, check for warm cables and/or connections. All your connections need to be clean, bright and tight for best electrical performance. Don't forget the ground side too.

Assuming that your battery cables are properly sized.

Connections all seem good - don't notice anything getting warm. I still suspect the battery. Will check to make sure the gas line to the carb is working. So weird being that it worked fine the last time I used it. ACR certainly comes to mind as well I suppose.

It's cold and that affects the starting of cubs, especially the hydrostats. Keep in mind not only are you trying to turn over the oil, but also the hydrostatic fluid that is thicker due to the colder temps. Put a deep cycle charge on your battery overnight. Add some fresh fuel to your tank and then put a little fresh fuel in a small squirt bottle. Carefully, with the key turned off, squirt a small amount of fuel into the carb and with a full charge on your battery, crank it over. Be sure not to put too much fuel in the carb and then replace the filter and cover on it. After a couple of tries, that should get you up and running.

Cub Cadet 123

Yeah...I think it was just being balky. After a few more tries, started up fine. Now that I no longer use it to plow snow, it doesn't run all winter so figured it's not a bad idea to get it running for a few minutes. I had added some stabil to the tank so good to circulate that through the system. I still do think that the battery was not fully charged or else not holding a charge. I had it on the charger a few more hours today before attempting another start.

Thanks....hadn't thought about the increased thickness of the trans fluid in the cold temps.

I'm glad you got your Cub running. As mentioned, the severe cold really puts a strain on all the components, till things get warmed up.
I'm a huge fan of 0W-30 for my winter Cubs.
(not trying to get into an oil war) :beatdeadhorse: :biggrin2:

Any way this is just my Opinion, so take it like a grain of salt. Again, not trying to start a debate. That being said, after several bad out comes with STABIL, I will not ever use it again, or ever recommend it's use. Short term again, my opinion here, you're OK. But don't use it for long term storage. I had it happen 2 times to where all the STABIL, separated from the gas, and went to the bottom of the tanks
(2 different generators) and turn into red jelly that completely clogged the carbs up. Again, YMMV I know a lot of people here use Startron, I've read great things about it.

I'm a K100 user, just love the stuff. It's works wonders most times on a gummed up carb on my old Homelites I pickup, that don't start. :beerchug:.

I was talking to my local CC 3rd generation dealer he said for me try using a dip stick oil heater. Hadnt thought about it before because temps were mid 30s,(started ok)now teens and 20s little harder to turn over fast enough. He said it will help. I bought one from NAPA but havent used it just keep a battery maintainer hooked up.

Magnetic heater for the bottom of the oil pan.
That is unless the pan is aluminum. Will work on Hydros as well, just stick 'em on and plug 'em in!

I stick the dipstick in the my rear end, always works.
If you want a picture let me know

One can always use a 100W heat lamp and place it near the crankcase.

I am a huge fan of following Kohler's recommendations. See link: Kohler's recommendations

theres a joke in there somewhere.. oooo yep in the rearend hhahhahaa


if the auto store uses them new fangeled testers. i don trust them. they dont put a load on the battery for testing.

thats why for 30 bucks i got the load tester that has a resistor in it to load the battery up ...

Thought about a 100 watt light bulb. Just really havent needed it, but when it's really cold I crank awhile.

Well, as I said earlier, I won't get into a debate about oil.
Here's what I know. The owners manual I have in my possession,
from the original owner of my Model 100, that was printed 8-30-1962 :bigeyes:
reads temps
Above +32 - SAE-30W
+30 to 0 SAE-10W
Below 0 SAE-5W
Well since the multitude of multi weight oils, weren't available yet,
(only 10W-30 I think) could be wrong there, and I'm not set in my ways
yet, I know that day is coming, :crap:
I look at the information presented to myself, and go from there.
IIRC 0W-30 oil hasn't really been around for all that long,
(early 2000's I think). So if it had been available, at the time the
book was written, I interpret what I think would have been used,
since technology has evolved so much since then.. And If people want
to be a stickler about following Kohlers recommendations in a
printed manual that is almost 60 years old, let alone when they were
written, and apply what was known way back then, and
what we know and have avail too us today, I'm going to bet on my
knowledge of the far superior oils we have today, verses almost
60 years ago, and where the H am I going to find 5W oil?

So lets talk fuel recommendations in the book, fill with
"fresh, regular grade gasoline"
This I found on an internet search for fuel.

I searched "What octane was gas in the 60s?

What was the octane level of regular gas in the 1960s?
"As the subregular and middle grades of gas came to market
in 1962, the average octanes of gasolines in the U.S. now stood
at 93 for regular, 99 for premium and 102 for the few super-premiums
still left on the market."
So if we want to go by what was printed back then,
everybody here, except a few, are not following the
recommendations of a book that was printed way to long ago,
and is not written in stone. :BlahBlah:
I myself, run Sunoco Pump 100 octane I get up the road in
Wrightsville PA. Yes it costs $8.00 a gallon but I'm following the book,
but that's not why I run it. I run it cause it has an unbelievable
shelf life, and all my Cubs and Old Homelites run so good on it.
That 100 has no ethanol in it, neither did the 60's pump gas.
Doesn't degrade rapidly, like today's gas does ,
and it burns so clean, compared to the crap 87 stuff that is used today.
It's a fact that higher octane gas burns cleaner in your engine.
There's no wonder why the carbon gets so built up in engines,
and dirties the oil so fast. Of course, most of this is just my opinion,
not a debate, just what I think is best for my situation, of what
I have learned over the years. To quote my Mom "to each there own, it's what makes the world go round."
And too be totally 100% honest here, I was never really good at following directions. :biggrin2: My apologies to everyone for getting
way, way, way, :OffTopic: No further comments from me, Have a great day All :beerchug:

Just one comment,
High octane fuel burns slower, so it does not knock in high compression situations
And is of no value in low compression engines, but does not hurt them.
most Kohlers are about 6.5 to 1
I sold Sunoco and raced it in the early 60's
SOC (Sunoco octane concentrate) was 108 octane and would not knock in 11.5 to1 Cr. small block chevy's
Do be careful today using RV fuel (no alcohol) or "premium" as it is a low sales volume fuel and might be in the tanks for a long time before it is sold to the consumer.
I think we all agree the oils today are much better. :beerchug:

The gasoline of today does not get that very distinct stale gas smell like the old stuff did. For any engine, you could tell if it was sitting for a long period (or had little run time) just by smelling the tank. With using quads, sleds. generators, boats and chain saws over the years I discovered and have been advise by a very experience mechanic to never use fuel stabilizer. Modern fuels don't need it. Since I quit using stabilizer, I've had no carb cleaning or starting problems. Boat, both inboard and kicker, fire right up; same for stored quads, lawn mowers and chain saws. And the gas still smells fresh.

What's the opinion on running full synthetic oil in the older Kohler's? I'm going to be breaking in a re-bore soon and for the price of one quart of synthetic, it won't put my retirement in jeopardy.

Break in on mineral/dino oil, then use anything you want is usually the recommendation of engine manufactures.
I subscribe to that also.
Do drain after an hour or so when it is hot, to get and mi-nute contaminants out the drain hole, as they ain't no filter, no way, no how, nuttin' :biggrin2: