Clutch assembly removal question
 

I'm pretty much rebuilding my recently purchased CC 100. I've pulled the engine and set it aside and want to remove and rebuild the clutch assembly, which currently has a broken teaser spring and the clutch disc's drive holes are "wallered" out. I'm going to replace both of those items and also the main load spring.

I need some expert advice on the removal of the clutch assembly. I searched around on the internet and found one guy who warned that when the pins are driven out of the coupler at the transmission, that the input shaft must be braced to prevent damage. I'm not sure I understand what this means. Any idea or advice on the best way to remove the input (drive) shaft from this coupler? How do I "brace the drive shaft?

"Bracing" would be any thing that you can come up with that you can wedge in there to support the input shaft of the transmission while you are driving out the pin so that you don't damage the input shaft bearing or seal.

Anything you can stick under/between the driveshaft and table or between the driveshaft and the frame or wherever to support it while driving out the pins to avoid damage to the input shaft bushing and seal

Standing that little guy up on his butt will make things a bunch easier.

Thanks to you and to Ironman - I think I understand it a little better now - made sense when I saw the gear teeth...

By "standing it up," I take it that the bushing doesn't need to be moving during and after the removal of the drive shaft. It's not on it's butt just now, but I do have the front of the tractor elevated, so that should help.

Thanks again. I'll post again when I get 'er done...

I stood up one of my John Deere's over the winter. Cub's definitely got more weight to it but shouldn't be too difficult considering you've pulled the engine already

Anyway you look at it, it's going to be a PITA to get them pins out tregardless how you go about it.
Best to have a 2nd pair of hands to assist and hold things steady.

I'll give it a try the way it is without standing it up - I just changed the tranny fluid and don't want to mess with that for awhile. If it becomes a real chore, I guess I could drain it and refill it later...

Soaking those pins in PB right now. Do both pins have to come out?

Only one (the easiest one to access) unless you have a ton of slop in the coupler, in which case it should be replaced and even possibly the driveshaft as well if there is a lot of wear on the ends or if the holes are wallered out

I would split the tractor and remove the clutch that way. Being the engine is out, you can remove all the clutch parts on one end and then remove the shaft and clutch arm after you split it.BTDT

It's a gear drive.
You shouldn't have to drain any oil.
When stood, up the oil level will not reach the opening on the shifter, the only place it can run out.
Just don't turn it completely upside down.

Okay, you convinced me. I was worried about the tranny/diff oil leaking out the axle shaft seals like it would on a Cub - different animal, I realize.

Probably a good time to take off the front axle for some cleaning and inspection also, you think?

Taking it slow here...

No brainer there
You are already into it that far, why not?

Well, I got it stood up. Now I have to figure out an easy way to remove that rusted in roll pin!

It won't help you out of the gate, but you may enjoy reading how another member coped with The Agony of Pushing Pins.
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=58035

Hmmm. Innovative on his part. Probably works pretty good, but might be tough to get in the space where these pins are. :bigthink: I guess I need to invest in a good set of drift pins...

Meanwhile, the PB Blaster soaking continues...

I am interested in what people have come up with to brace the input shaft on the trans from damage hammering out the pins. I'm going to be doing a clutch replacement on my 73 soon and after reading this I'll be taking preventive steps before hammering on it. :bigthink:

You need a good set of roll pin punches.

Prices are all, over the place on these.
I'd stay away from the cheapest.
Mine are vintage Craftsman and have never let me down and they get used quite often.

Here's one.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PTQJ49007S2

All is looking good with the clutch. I don't think I broke anything getting the shaft off. I borrowed an idea for compressing the big spring and have replaced the teaser, the compression spring, the shaft (which was pretty badly worn), the bearing and the disc. Got it all together and it's ready to go back on after some work on the frame.

Can do the same thing with a vise, a brass drift and a hammer.

Oh, I'm sure, but I had all those parts laying around and thought I'd give it a try. Worked great. I'll probably use it again if I redo the clutch on my 106, so no harm, no foul. It was fun figuring it all out.

Whatever works!
Make sure you get it adjusted properly when reinstalling.
And look for excessive wear in the pivot points in the throw out rod and hanger.

You should be able to reach up in there with your finger and spin the T/O bearing with your finger when the clutch is released if properly adjusted free play is present at the clutch pedal.

Excellent - will do. Thanks!

Probably get to it after the holiday.