Charge issues
 

ok i have 2 S/Gs and 2 VRs. the charge gauge pegs after about 5 to 10 mins of run time at high end of rpms. with volt meter on batt showing floating to 16 sometimes 17. one VR floats around 15 to 16..

the 2 VRs are 4 tab. i see on the 3 front/side facing tabs if you will.. the letters.
so i have 2 out of the 3 front or side tabs hooked up... 1 to bat 1 to field. the 3rd is L so i guess that is load or lights or the 500 watt stereo lol .. joking
tab under the VR goes to A on the SG ? inside terminal or the one close to the motor..

kind of wish someone who knows these real good .. could make a video lol....
videos for almost everything else on these ole boys.

i followed the wiring on the sites traced all wires. ohm and conduit on the ohm meter.. you know touch one end and then ground to check for shorts. nothing. and both ends to make sure i have right wire goin to right spot.

wonder also how long they hold Polarizing???

iam sort of lost after all that..

What tractor(s) are you working on ??

:Huh:

they are 127s..

Are you talking about two different tractors doing the same thing with two different batteries or are you swapping things around from one to the other?
It sounds like you are wired correctly but that being said your post is about as clear as chocolate milk!

You have the wrong V/R for the 127. Assuming you are using the older 4 terminal V/R used on the 70/100 series, DON'T use the "L" terminal.

Here is the 127 Charging Circuit. Make sure the wires are connected correctly AND you have a good ground.

i know i suck at texting stuff lol

2 SGs 2 VRs on one tractor...

i think i found the issue but before i say... ill run it more
ran it for 30 mins with and without blades...
floating 13 to 17. amp gauge showing one needle width off 0 .. lil floater on it on lower rpm .. not peged like before..

yes i did something but ill wait and see if its said .. lol

when bought they had the 4 term VRs. also a 147 . but same wiring as we know..

the L is empty. just B F and A underside..

i think i found the issue.. ill give hint.. i did put new term post on the SG. nope wasnt shorting.. but i pulled the coils out of the casing of the SG to do the new post.. nope coils are fine inside. no shorts..
might give a hint..

Nothing was said in the original post about you servicing the S/G's.

:bigthink:

i learned something new lol... new clue every time you work on them or disconnect them.. they need to be re-polarized.

i think .... that was issue.. i did the short A to battery while running . just touch .. spark done..
seems OK now..
floating 13 to 16.5 sometimes 17. but it isnt running away on the voltage now..

It has always been my understanding that starter/generators, as opposed to generators, do not have to be manually polarized.
When you did what you thought was repolarizing by touching the S/G "A" terminal to battery plus, it is done automatically the first time you hit the starter solenoid as you can see in the wiring diagram.
So, your problem may be solved, but not by "re-polarizing".
By the way, on a 4-lug regulator, the post on the bottom is the equivelent of the "GEN" lug on 3-lug regulators. The "L" lug (or Load) on 4-lug regulators is for providing greater current to high drain loads such as lights or other accessories.

In addition, if you are seeing 16-17 volts and and consider that "isn't running away on the voltage now", how much would you consider to be "running away"?

not sure as the polarizing but it seems to be working. it was my understanding they needed that.. so iam lost there..
run away voltage was goin to 17 plus. hittin 18... within 10 mins of run. it wasnt comming off 17 to 18. also amp gauge peged rite... now its floating all over place. 13 to 16.5, so iam guessing the VR is working .
after touching A to bat. it doesnt do that no more. i just mowed for hour and she ran around the 1st line above 0 . wasnt jumping all over like my other 127 does. seems stable now.

so i have no clue. you say no need to pole it. yet ive read and seen vids to do it. so ill leave that one to the experts. iam far from one thats for sure.

thank you all for the help for sure.. cold bev or hot your choices. say my name they take care of ya lol

edit ps... if iam wrong or doing wrong. pelase tell me so i learn what iam doing here. rebuild a motor is much easier then wiring for me lol ... tho these are pretty simple compared to cars and trucks. hahhaha will new stuff. give me a ole SQ body anyday lol

oooo
 

wow one thing or another... now i have to let off the key to start it..
in start postion crank a few times then let key go and it fires.

i give up lol

That problem sounds like you are not maintaining the power to the ign coil during the cranking phase.

Put your meter on the +side of the coil and see if you are getting near 12 volts
when your cranking the engine over with the key switch.
Also:
A weak bat-tree might be producing enough power for the starter, but not enough for the coil.
your wiring circuit is a simple one, not complex like some later models, so you should be able to find your problems easily.:bigthink:

Another bad key switch. Did i ever say i hate them? Yes i have. !6-17 is to high for the S/G. Should be 13-14.5. There is a process to adjust them. Ol George could be right though. My money's on the switch. Mike:beerchug: PS Clean both ends of your ground cable.

Or it's the WRONG key switch.
As we all know (or should know), not all key switches are created equal.

ol'geo.........
ty for info i didnt even think of that.. bat tree is brandy new. i dont remember i think i tired another ing switch and did same. it was another 127.. but will check the coil..


mickb72....
thats the highs.. meter on bat tree. its floating all over the place.. 2 volts to 13 to 12 to 16to 9 . so iam guessing its working ok .. tho i could be way off and wrong..

ironman....
i dont think its wrong one.. its the 3 wire ... as i said to geo up above.. i dont remember if i tired another one i have and if i did .. if it did the samething..
but with what GEO said test coil input it will get me in right area.. it should tell me if its cuttin voltage off to coil..


heck might be just old switch.. dirty and or copper wore off inside..
ill know more when i test coil.

Amazing...

Something is still way wrong. Voltage should not vary much at all in normal use...should go from just about 12V to around 14v. Amp's should not be pegged or "floating all over."



Grounds clean? I know this was mentioned before, but is it?

Coil shouldn't cause any of this.

its the switch
 

its the switch..

seems the detent to stop you from turning past the contects is lil ware down..

i had one in another tractor.. took it apart. cleaned it up and thats what it did also ..

note to self.. if u go to far with the alloy edge thats bent over the switch plate.. hahhaha it will rip lol ...
its ok tho wasnt working anyways lol ... the blades for the plug were a bit ruster then i would like anyways lol

ty to ol geo..

its stayin steady on the amp gauge.. sits around left of the 1st line to the rite.

it could be my meter tho.. i have 2 of them. but there the cheapos. i have to find a good meter to grab..

becuse as i read your post. iam thinking.. if its hooked to battery.. it shouldnt go below 12 volts or what ever the battery is at.. and the meter was goin from 2 volts peaking to 16ish..

been running it nothing blew up yet lol ..

will update once i get a better meter or a new one ..

Are you talking about a testing meter with a digital readout?

my bad.. yes.... multi meter.

Digital mutimeter readings tends jump around a lot sometimes.....try holding test leads steady as possible.

i used jb weld to put them on the wires to the battery... it didnt help..
ill have to hit the parts store for some of that steady lube. i seen it on sale for 3 bucks a tube.. hope it works