Pressure washer acting backwards?
 

I have a Troy-Bilt pressure washer with a B&S engine I was given last year by a family member. The engine runs fine no problem and it’s had strong pressure until today.

For some reason it’s not pressurizing when I press the trigger, yet it will pressurize when the trigger is not pressed. To put it another way, engine ramped up and water is spraying out the release valve, until I squeeze the trigger then it just idles and water just flows out the gun like it’s coming out of a normal hose pipe.

It’s like it’s running “backwards” - it should idle normally then ramp up and pressurize when the trigger is pressed. I never unhook the hose going to the gun, only the inlet hose from my house, so it’s not hooked up backwards. Has the pump gone bad?

Sounds like a blockage somewhere. Leaving water in those pumps isn’t good for them. Likely it’s more cost effective to replace the pump than try to fix it. I took mine apart and there was nothing but white powder inside. I replaced the pump and now run some RV antifreeze through it to protect the pump.

What’s weird is that I just used it not even a month ago and it was fine. New pump for this unit is $230, not worth it to me to fix since I only use it a handful of times a year, if that.

I might just try to sell it for the motor, as it runs good and cranks with 1-2 pulls every time. Someone could make use of it for a push mower or something. Thanks for responding.

Don't be so quick to pronounce it dead.
Is the pump belt driven or coupled? check to see it the pump is running then for obstructions of the water both in/out etc etc if you have the manual or service manual read it, if not look it up on the 'net, most newer stuff is available to download free.
See if the hose quick connect came apart :bigthink:

The pump is direct connected to the bottom of the motor. I’ve read online that it could be the check valve is broken, that’s what makes it pressurize when the trigger is pressed. But replacing it requires disassembly of the pump…

There's not a lot to those pumps.

I tore mine down in a clean spot.
That way if anything flew out I could find it.:biggrin2:

The one I tore apart had a plastic piece that was sticking.

I sanded it and it started working.

I suggest taking it apart .
Especially if you can get parts for it.


...

Just an update. I took the pump apart and cleaned it good. Found the ball was missing from the soap inlet valve (but the spring was still there WTF). Replaced the valve and the temp relief valve (just in case). Replaced the spray wand too. It seems to be working now but then it just shut off while I was spraying and now it won't stay on for more than a few seconds what gives?

It's got fresh gas (I ran it dry last time I used it). My neighbor was over when I was testing, he said it sounds like it's starved for fuel - carb float might be stuck or something. These damn carbs are killing me...

If it has an idle screw,
Take it out (Keep up with the position it is set at)
and spray some Carb cleaner in there.

Running preferably, but if it won't start without the idle screw,
It can't hurt to try to clear it out before you remove it.

Hope this helps.

There is definitely some kind of fuel problem as my entire shed smells gas now. Guess it's time to start checking for leaks...

Maybe it's the fuel line?
That would be easy.
Hopefully not a hole in the tank or leaky fuel pump.

They usually have plastic fuel tanks that are 2 pieces (top & bottom) joined together.
Mine developed a hairline split at the seam producing a barely noticeable leak.
I tried all kinds of sealants to stop it from leaking, nothing seems to want to adhere to that plastic for very long, then it starts leaking again.
Now I just put enough gas in to do the job and run it dry.

Smart idea:biggrin2:
They don't get used that much anyway,(At-least not by me).

Seal-All is the only thing I have found that will last a few years on gas leaks.
It does better on a rough surface though.

Attachment 109446

Found out it was leaking out the drain on the carb bowl. And I found traces of gas around the air cleaner gasket. I replaced both the bowl gasket and drain gasket, as well as the gasket on the air cleaner and intake side. Cleaned the carb as well since I had it apart. Fired it up and it did drip a bit around the bowl drain at first but it stopped dripping after a few mins of runtime.

It still shuts off after spraying for a few mins though, but it will crank right back up again. Not sure if it's some kind of back pressure build up or something else...

I guess I may just hafta replace the carb on it since it started dripping out the bowl drain again, even though I replaced that gasket. The needle must not be sealing all the way causing gas to overfill the bowl.

At least after this all of my equipment will have new carbs lol

I couldn't find a cheap china carb for this model (like I did for my generator and walk-behind trimmer) and I really don't wanna pay $50 for the OEM one. So I got an OEM kit and rebuilt it. I replaced everything except the welch plugs.

I can see it shooting gas into the carb throat when I prime it, but it won't run for more than a second. It's like it's burning off the gas from the primer and not sucking more through.

And then the pull cord snapped so I can't work on it anymore until I replace that. I'm about done with this thing :angry:

sounds like the float is not set correctly. Or float is faulty "has crack or hole in it keeping it down allowing fuel to flow"