Super Diesel Cyclops Cub Cadet
 

A cheap 1782 followed me home. Tractor and deck (appears to be newer series Haban) followed me home tonight.

I've wanted one of these for at least 15 years, since seeing on at a tractor show as a kiddo.

Previous owner said 2 cylinders were ~150-200 psi, and it runs but something is wrong. Guess I'll be pulling the head as the weather improves. Seems pretty clean, but the right side panel decal looks like it got warm. Any insight on these Kubota D640s having this issue? Best case would be a head gasket or valve issue...worse...a head/rebuild.

New battery is worth about 25% of what I gave for it. :beerchug:

Looks like it followed you home on a trailer, was that part of the deal?
Those prices in the picture they appear to be a BP petrol station. Can you tell what fuel is what price please?
Oz

That's cheap (Southern WI), the top line would be 3.65 by me. No, I've had my Karavan for like a year now.

Top to bottom: regular, mid grade, premium (gasoline), diesel, USD/gallon.

Those prices are super cheap , I am paying just over $7.00 for 4 litres Diesel which is a fraction more than a US gallon
That is a US gallon you still use ?
Oz

Super Diesel Cyclops Cub Cadet
 

Honestly, I am Surprised it starts with 2 cylinders in the 150-200 psi range. New spec is somewhere in the 415 psi range. Minimum is in the 300 psi range. Not trying to scare you, but typically repeated overheats result in a cracked head. Usually cracks between prechamber and exhaust seat area, sometimes visually detectable. I would remove the glow plugs and verify compression readings before removing head, compression test is the most valuable test you can perform.

yes we still use a us gallon.
Here is a site we use in Michigan, one can look up any city or zip code and see gas prices.Yes we are blessed in the USA although California is just about double those prices.
http://www.michigangasprices.com/GasPriceSearch.aspx

I am not allowed to look at that site , it is blocked
We are stuck with a government who is influenced by the oil companies as to pricing , we have massive amounts of oil and gas but we derive no benefit as it gets exported
Sorry about hijacking the site to talk about petrol and diesel prices
Oz

I'm thinking that, then pull the head and inspect/get magnfluxed if it's not an obvious headgasket/valves.

I knew going into this it needs work.

You call it blessed, but in Spring 2020 I was paying $1.39/gallon. :bigthink:

Yessir, US gallon. In IL there's a large new tax which caused the disparity in WI (much cheaper).

We have 2 taxes on fuel the first is an excise the second is GST (Goods and Services Tax) of 10% the GST is on the Fuel and the excise so we pay a tax on a tax
May I make a suggestion so that Farmalls thread about the Cyclops is not swamped by talk of fuel , can the posts about fuel be put in a new thread please
Thanks
Oz

I like to b!tch about how much gas costs me too :D

I thought hard about grabbing that tractor, but was afraid of what the engine might need. I felt it was well worth the asking price.
Keep us posted on what it takes to get it back into shape. I'm curious, no experience with the Kubotas.

Well we had an administration that was friendly to oil production and we was selling it instead of importing it.
Of course with all the new lectric stuff, it is going to be utopia, with perpetual motion in every back yard, money will grow on trees and our thoughts will produce instant gratification no matter the thought or need, real or envisioned.
---but i'm not holding my breath.

Now back to the co bo ah regular discussion.
In the old days, iffin yall had 2 cylinders sittin side by side low on comp.
dey was usually exchanging breaths like young folks on their first date.
might have to take the hat off and have a look-see, then take appropriate action as needed :biggrin2:

You saw it on marketplace? The guy was very cool that sold it.

Sounded like it had gotten warm a few times, not sure if just underpowered for the grass he was mowing, or more likely the rad is all gross.

I helped my brother pull the engine for his 15HP Kubota, but haven't done much more than that and maintenance on the 2182.

Yes, yes it was :(

Once it warms up I'll take a better look. Working everyday but today, and it's 9 degrees.

Yeah I saw it earlier this week. I'd LIKE another project, but don't NEED another project. Still have the wife's ongoing situation, and work has been unusually slow. Ideally I think an 1872-2072 would be my next project, but I'm in no rush given current circumstances. If a nice one came up reasonable though I might be tempted to pick it up.

This reminds me to hit you up in the spring for that deck.

Yeah, this guy agreed to sell it Tuesday, but he wasn't feeling great so I didn't pick it up until later in the week.

Got it inside the shop today. Messing around, good on oil and coolant, newer filters.

Glow plugs work and get 9v. Fuel pump works. Cranks good. No smoke, but I also noticed the fuel solenoid on the pump doesn't engage or disengage (move) on it's own, even when cranking, which I figured it would.

12 degrees though, so I threw it on the battery charger for warmer weather. Going to pickup a diesel compression tester tomorrow after work and check that out firsthand this week.

It's yours. It's still sitting at my cousin's in Richmond. Once the snow clears and it warms up a bit I'll go grab it.

Nice score even if it needs a little tlc. How far did you have to go to find this one?

About an hour North. :beerchug:

Looks like a good haul, Hope you get it running. The one I got for 150.00 got water in it from the air cleaner intake hose and ruined the motor, I ended up up parting it out.

Sad to hear, but it happens.

Last night's update:
Tried to start the 1782 today (it hit 49). Smoke, but no luck. Compression tested all 3 cylinders in the mid 100s (way too low). Pulled off the head but didn't find any smoking guns -- will have to clean up and inspect further.

The headgasket looks OK, so besides valves being gummed open I'm not sure where else to look. Oil didn't noticeably improve the compression, so I don't think it's the rings.

Good news, valves aren't closing fully. Time to pull them out of the head and investigate. Pretty black, but will see if they need to be cut after I get the carbon off.

Got the head off and cleaned up. Kubota headgasket made it to the dealer, but will waiting on the valve cover gasket and valve seals.

Intake valves had a lot of carbon buildup. I have everything cleaned up. I was going to clean up the valve seats with my Neway kit but I don't have a small enough cutter for this. Might just lap if I dye the valves and the contact looks good.

Otherwise I'm either in the market for a smaller Neway cutter or off to the machine shop.

Post a pic of the seat cutter setup. I've never heard of Neway before so I had to look it up, but I'm curious. How often do you use a tool like that?

Do the seats or valves show any hotspots?

Mine is the kit around this one: https://www.newaymfg.com/parts/CU102

And I have a valve side kit too. I've only used it one other time but don't have to rebuild engines much (paid for one valve job on my K301 when I was like 10 lol).

Not that I can tell. So it appears running it overheated/lugging managed to build up so much carbon on the intake valves it lost compression/power significantly.

I'd like to see pics when you go to do the seats. Looks interesting.

My Uncle ran a repair shop in town for 30 years, retired in 2005. My Dad tried to get his valve grinder but Uncle gave it to his son. My guess is my Dad would have used it once or twice, and the son may have used it once or twice, so it's something that collects alot of dust.

Those are cutters, I prefer my Sioux and Black/Decker vibro stones.
They have the advantage of dressing/ adjusting the angle and size of the stones to match the size of the valve seats.
Both my sets are older, but not as old as me :biggrin2:
I don't use them often now, but when I need them they will do the job.
Valve work was a necessity "back in the day" when we rebuilt engines, not just install "crate engines"
Sadly today it is a lost art, as is engine rebuilding.

The cutters suggest cutting at 45 and 46 degrees to allow them to develop a fit. :bigthink:

It depends what one is working on, some seats are *30, others, *45 or *46.
An interference fit of *1 is not uncommon, I have never noticed much of a difference in longevity or performance.
But too large of a seat width can cause carbon to build up allowing valves to burn.
Too narrow of a seat area can cause excessive heat in the valve causing warpage/breakage.
Best to stay with the particular engines recommendations.

I have dressed small diameter stones down smaller, for a little 3-5 hp engine and purchased larger stones for a big valve engine.
With the quick way style one usually needs more $$$ to go bigger or smaller,
Cutters are not inexpensive,
also some heads are shrouded more than others.
It all boils down to what the mechanic usually works on.
Different tools for different mechanics and engines.
If a shop usually works on small lawnmower engines a few cutters will usually be suffice.
But not for a mechanic that might do a large displacement engine one day and a small compact vehicle another day.

Usually an interference fit of *1 is accomplished with a Valve ground at *45 and a seat cut to *46 as the seat stones are easily dressed *1 difference.
But making both *45 and paying attention to the width will work just fine, under normal conditions.

Now if one wants to do a 3 angle valve seat job, stones are easier to accomplish that, as you can set the seat width exactly in the center by
using different degree stones.
OR if building a engine that turns high rpm's and needs to breathe better but is limited on valve diameter, one can cut the seat to just hang the valve on the outer edge and increasing the bowel diameter(and flow) but still staying within the rules of a particular valve diameter.
These old skool things we did back in the day when factory or aftermarket parts were not available,
Today, a click of the mouse and a pocket full of $$ gets a person a lot of performance and/or power, and economy.
Sorry off topic again.

No worries, all good information. I agree that it's rarely done today -- cheaper to buy new valves than have a machine shop cut them.

A new valve will not repair a damaged a seat, only a stone or cutter will do that.
As far as a refacing a valve, it takes less that one minute to chuck it and grind it perfectly. :beerchug:

I was only speaking to the valve, not the seat. A machine shop will still charge more than the $7/pop I can get these valves for new, even if it only takes them a minute :)

Fortunately my dad has a Sioux grinder, and I have the Neway valve sets in 30 and 45 degree. On the "business" side of things, it probably would have been cheaper to just buy new or go to a machine shop if we didn't work on stuff with NLA parts from time to time.