Cub Cadet 1862 Hydro Transmission Issues
 

My 1862 hydro transmission had become a bit sluggish over the past year or so. I also noticed the hydraulic steering assist was not assisting very much. I had the unit out last week pulling a leaf vac and it was cold, in the high 20's and low 30's. I parked the 1862 outside for a while and when I tried to pull it into the garage it wouldn't move. Neither forward nor backwards. There were no unusual noises. Seems like the oil wasn't flowing to move the transmission and operate the steering assist.

With the engine running and the transmission lever in the forward position I pushed it inside. It seemed the transmission was trying to help but didn't. After sitting a couple days and being pressure washed, I tried to make it move. Again, it appeared to try to move, but didn't move much either way.

Not sure what type of oil is in the transmission, but it worked fine in the past.

Could the transmission filter have gotten plugged restricting the flow of oil? Should I replace the oil and filter?

If the wrong type of oil is in the transmission, could the cold weather cause it to be too thick to flow properly? I'm stumped on this one?? Thanks for any input.....

Could be wrong/contaminated fluid, clogged filter, bad pressure relief valves, worn hydro unit, which is rare.

Do the fluid/filter first. Capacity is 7 qts. Hytran can be bought for around $30 a gallon at most Case/IH dealers.

IIRR didn't you change the fluid back in 2015 when you worked on it?
what ever, Hytran is correct, but acceptable fluids are out there like those that meet the standards TSC's fluid is just one of those.
Now as far as filters, best to stick to cub, Deere or the others listed here on OCC.
Do not go by some list of "will fit" filters just because they will screw on and not leak,
as you don't want a filter that has a drain back valve.
You are shooting yourself in the foot doing that.
Cool temps, clogged filter or worse, a wrong filter or one that has moisture frozen in it will cause your symptoms.
And if you never changed the fluid, do yourself a favor and do it.
Also If you never removed the rear cover to clean the accumulated sludge in the bottom, it would be a good time to do it and you will never have to do it again.
Removing the cover is the best way to drain it.
Have fun, and remember the fluid comes out fast once the last bolt is removed.:biggrin2:

Thanks for the advice. I have the gasket and OEM filter ordered. What are the torque specs for the rear plate? Also, I saw where TSC has a synthetic hydrostatic transmission oil. Would that be an acceptable alternative?

no need for synthetic, Sundstrand says one can even use ATF type "F"

----------Someone will post the torque, I'm too lazy to look it up, as I have a calibrated hand after all these years :biggrin2:

check the cover to see if it has been over-tightened, if it has, the holes will be puckered in, if so, flip the cover over and using a large ball peen hammer with the cover on the open jaws of your vise smack them back level or even more as the bolts will pull them back flat.


Traveller Premium Tractor Hydraulic Fluid it is about $33 for TWO gallons
Here is what they say on their WWW:
RECOMMENDED FOR THE FOLLOWING APPLICATIONS:ABEX/DENNISON HF-0 ALL PUMPS, HF-2, HF-1 AGCO POWER FLUID 821-XL ALLISON C-2, C-3 AND C-4 MASSEY FERGUSON M-1110, M-1127A, M-1129 MASSEY FERGUSON M-1129A, M-1141 PERMATRAN III NEW IDEA POWER UNITS STEIGER HYDRAULIC TRANS. FLUID SEMS 17001 SPERRY VICKERS M-2950-S, I-286-S SUNSTRAND HYDROSTATIC TRANS. FLUID VALMET VERSATILE GEAR AND HYD. TRANS. FLUID SPEC. 24-M, 23-M WHITE Q-1705, Q-1826 WHITE (OLIVER) TYPE 55 FLUID (Q-1802) WHITE FARM UNIVERSAL HTF FLUID (Q-1766, Q-1766B) WHITE MULTIPURPOSE TRACTOR OIL (Q-1722) YANMAR ALLIS-CHALMERS POWER FLUID 821 BELARUS DEUTZ-ALLIS POWER FLUID 821 CASE HY-TRAN ULTRA (MS-1209) CASE HY-TRAN PLUS (MS-1207) CASE TCH FLUID MS-1210 (JIC 145) INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER HY-TRAN B-6 CASE TFD FLUID (MS-1204, JIC 185, 144, 143, B-5) CASE TFD II FLUID (MS-1205) CASE POWERGARD PTF FLUID (MS-1206) CATERPILLAR TO-2CASE MS-1230 (HIGH PRESSURE SYSTEMS) DRESSER CONSTRUCTION EQUIP. DIVISION FIAT JOHN DEERE HYGARD FLUID (JDM J20C) JOHN DEERE 303 FLUID (JDM-J20A, JDM J14B) FORD NEW HOLLAND M2C41B, M2C48C, 53A, 86B, 134D, C, B, A HESSTON-FIAT OILOFIAT TUTELA MULTI-F AF-87 GROVE MANUFACTURING HYDRAULIC FLUID INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER HY-TRANS PLUS (MS-1207) KUBOTA UDT FLUID KUBOTA TRANSHYDRAULIC FLUID LANDINI TRACTOR II HYDRAULIC FLUID LEYLAND MAHINDRA

Are you sure the pump is turning?
Make sure you have not lost or sheared a pin in the driveline.

My guess is that you have water in the oil and the filter is full of ice. Get it inside warm it up, drain the oil and change the filter.

Yep, what he said.

I use 30ft/lbs on all steel bolts going into aluminum for a torque setting on my Cub Cadet rear cases.

Here is the fluid George is talking about and what I use also.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...3?cm_vc=-10005

I little cheaper in the bucket size.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...1?cm_vc=-10005

Hytran is the correct oil to run so your factory warranty won't be voided.:bigeyes: I don't have an IH dealer anywhere near me so I would need to have it shipped so I use whats local to me.

Oh silly me, I forgot all about the factory warranty on a 32 year cub.
Yes, by all means use hi train panther piss in the sump.
(Oak it took near an hour to get the coffee out of my laptop keyboard and off the screen):biggrin2:

So this seems to end up as a joke every time it is brought up. :BangPC:

Hytran has proprietary to Case/IH additives in it to promote moisture absorption. If you change your hydro oil every couple of years, this is not an issue. If you expect your cheap oil to last 20 years, well, good luck! :BlahBlah:

We are talking the equivalent of chicken $hit money difference in cost between the two. Same to the guys that refuse to use the OEM hydro filter, and get one than spins on and doesn't leak... I know which product I will be using.

:BangPC:

Hytran has proprietary to Case/IH additives in it to promote moisture absorption. If you change your hydro oil every couple of years, this is not an issue. If you expect your cheap oil to last 20 years, well, good luck! :BlahBlah

Oh here we go again, Green vs Red,vs Orange etc.
Ford. GM, Mopar, off shore etc etc.
Blond redhead brunet.
if it pisses someone off at a little humor, well they missed the humor.
A panther pisses, so does her cub.
Choice is what makes this a great country.
As far as water absorption, I would much rather have the water at the bottom of a hydraulic reservoir with the suction line above it,
than have it in circulation with oil.
But that is my choice and I'm not advising anyone change their beliefs.

Interesting, if a Sundstrand hydro is powering IH, then hytran is the best, if the same unit is powering a Deere then Hyguard is the best.
and on and on with all the others that used it.
Just my take.
yall have a great day, just remember do read the specifications of anything.
And don't drink down stream from the heard!:beerchug:

In a typical old, not serviced when it was supposed to IH/CCC transaxle, what do you typically find?

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...1&d=1590150641

The moisture stays in the bottom of the unit as a sludgy mess and most of it isn't dispersed into the Sunstrand because of the Hytran. Cheaper fluids just become milky and circulate all that moisture around.

Similar to the song "There is a Mountain" by Donovan
First there is a mountain, then there is no mountain, then there is...

Substitute the lyrics,
First the Hytran absorbs the moisture, then it doesn't, then it leaves a sludgy mess...

C'mon everybody, SING ALONG
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkLp9d7HKuA

YOU should explain it better, Einstein..

Maybe some clarification is needed for the smart asses in the forum. There are chemicals in the Hytran that absorb and retain the water and allow it to settle in the bottom of the diff case instead of the pump.

Attached are a before and after picture of the inside of the transmission. Had some crud on the bottom and I see there is still a little in there. Got a new filter and Hytran fluid but having a bit of trouble finding a new gasket.

The gasket is your standard 921-3015. It is available from your local Cub Cadet or Case/IH Dealers. It is available from our Sponsors, as well as, numerous places on the Web.

It might be noted.many have used RTV successfully.

The bolts appeared to have a Lok-tite substance on them. Is that something you would recommend?

From all the rear ends I have opened up, I have never used Lok-tite when I put the overs back on. I have had NO issues.

:IH Trusted Hand:

X2 on no loctite

Get some gasket paper from your local parts store and make a gasket for it.
Easy to do as you already have the pattern right in front of you.

I've seen that on my stuff too. Don't believe it was Locktite. Probably a thread sealant. I've never replaced it on the bolts, and don't have a leak because of it.

Charlie has the cover gasket.
https://ccspecialties.org/clutch_driveline_rearend.html

I put on a new filter, new gasket, and Hytran fluid. Works great now. I appreciate all the suggestions and coaching on this project. Thanks

Hydro Fluid
 

Redneck#1, What did you use to get the gasket off rear end? Super clean.
Thanks and have a great day.
Bob

Used carb cleaner and a small stainless steel wire brush from Harbor Freight. Scraped a little with a plastic scraper and carefully on some spots with a utility knife.

Yeah are you sure the hydro input shaft is turning?

<edit> I guess I should have read to the end of the post before I chimed in LOL. I knew it was a fluid issue.