M-18 front oil seal
 

Hey guys: It's been awhile I hope your all good. I dropped in to ask your opinion on the above mentioned oil seal. My seal is leaking so I removed the PTO to start the repair. Before disassembly I watched a video on YouTube that showed the seal should be installed about 3/32 in from the surface, mine was sitting about a inch in. How is that possible? Is there a lip to keep the seal from falling to the inside of the engine? Was it installed incorrectly or did it "walk" itself deeper into the casting? How do you prevent that from happening?

On our Cubs the PTO end is the rear seal so make sure to get the correct one. In the M18-M20 manual, on page 11.9, it says to drive it in to a depth of 5/32 (+3/64;-1/64). I use a piece of PVC pipe to tap it into place.


The manual is free to download if you need it here.

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ead.php?t=4648

they will go deeper with age they loosen and will suck into the engine . i've run into a few that someone put a new seal in without removing old one

Thanks guys, As far as leaving the second seal in I thought it wouldn't hurt to leave it as long as the front seal is getting lubed? The seal in there now leaks so it should be ok. Pertaining to the right seal, I bought a seal kit from "I Save Tractors" I've never bought from him but he seems to have good prices. Quality remains to be seen? Has anyone one purchased from him before? Also thanks for the link for the manual Oak.

You don't want to starve the new seal of lube, remove he old seal.
:bigthink:

Very easy to remove the old seal, just screw in a drywall screw or something similar and yank it out with pliers, a slide hammer, etc. I wouldn’t leave it in there, personally.

No issues with any of the gaskets or seals I bought from IST here.

I bought my K301 master rebuild kit from him and it was perfect. He is knowledgeable and enthusiastic about these old tractors.

Casting ok??
 

I'm worried, the seal slipped right out I hope the casting is not wore if the seal was spinning with the crank.

What seal did you get ??

:bigthink:

My experience was the Kohler pto end seal fit too loose in the bore. I used a SKF 13734 and it fit much better.

I got the front and rear seal kit from the guy at "I save tractors" this is what he's selling.
Oil Seal Set for MV16, MV18, M18, MV20, M20, KT17, KT19 Engines

SEA01003

Brand: iSaveTractors

$14.99 USD

There are three different oil seals for the M-18. The correct one for your Engine (M18S-24506) is: X-583-5.

You can NOT order parts simply based on a group model number.

Don't ask me how I know this. :biggrin2:

Norman at IST is a good dude too. He has helped me before with my Ultimate Engine Rebuild kit for my K301.

Whats the secret to making sure I order the correct part? Is it based on serial number?

The engine Model & Spec number, ie: "M18S-24506".

Kohler made hundreds of M18 versions, to meet an OEM requirement. To know for sure, "always" look parts up by "spec" number.

:ThumbsUp:

Thanks for the info, I ve read about that, Its interesting the "I save tractors" site did not ask about a spec number, that led me to believe the seals would be the same. I guess I should of checked here first.

The seals you got are likely the correct Kohler parts. What are the part numbers on them? Remember the pto end is called the rear / flywheel side is the front.

The part # on the seal is Be1059e and the other is Ae7782e there's a smaller be??77e

Maybe I can muddy the crystal ball.
The early KT17's had a slightly smaller seal on the flywheel end.
Kohler learned that they had problems with the crankshaft in heavy duty applications, like skid steer usage. ( among other problems)
Some snapped the crankshaft as flywheels are like gyroscopes inasmuch as they resist change in motion, and a application like skid steers are something that is anything but stable usage.
SOOO they increased the crank diameter slightly in the area of the seal/and flywheel taper when the improved K T17 series II's and Magnums were built.
The series II and better yet, Magnums, were the best of that design at that time.

Today it is cost effective to assemble a "kit" of seals/gaskets covering all like models even if some are not used, than it is to stock many kits.
Inventory is money laying in warehouses/shelves. :BlahBlah: