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Rebuilt my steering box
I took my 124 apart to make a small weld a year ago, and it still sits. I needed to rebuild the steering box before I went further, so I actually got off my butt and did it. It was quite easy. I also did the modification I've read about here, with the thrust bearing. The only trouble I had was I couldn't find a locknut narrow enough to grab the threads once I put in the bearing and thrust washers, so I used a dab of Locktite red. I also noticed it wasn't quite as smooth as I felt it could be, I took it back apart and packed the thrust bearing with Phil Wood bicycle grease. Silky smooth now.
3 cans of Hogwash needed to clean out 40 years of cruddy grease. Now I need to dig out the soldering gun and terminals and make me up a new wiring harness. |
Glad to here you are makeing progress oldrustycars.:ThumbsUp:
Wont be long now you will have it back in the yard. |
On the Nut for the Lever Assembly, you can use either a double 5/8" NF Jam Nuts or a regular NyLock Nut.
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with that upgrade, you should only be using one nylock nut
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I use this style thrust bearing.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#thrust-bearings/=24b0wk Here is the the thrust bearing set up on my 70 steering: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...Dick/UD105.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...Dick/UD100.jpg |
I had the same problem when I rebuilt my steering box. I took the nylon lock nut and put it in a vice then cut it in half with a reciipicating saw. It shortened it enough that I was able to thread it on and lock it tight.
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http://www.kirkengines.com/Steering%20Upgrade.jpg
I used this setup. The bearing is thicker than the original jam nut. I used the correct Primer N along with Loctite Red to keep the nut on, it seems like it's on to stay. But I'm glad to see someone else had the same issue, I "almost" clamped a Stover nut in the vise and ground it to half thickness. |
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Merk do you have a part number for the needle bearing? Scott |
Murphy, Let us know how long that open bearing lasts. Please don't think this is a "dig" I am curious.
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#) bearing: 5909K32 Price-$2.66 Washer: 5909K45 Price-$.95 each-need 2 Locknut: 92501A030 Price-$9.90 for 100 pcs Any good hardware store like ACE should have them. Sorry for not responding sooner. |
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The only way to know is give a try. It will be an easy change if it doesn't hold up. Not know how everyone's work looks...I'm only working 32 hours a week. I've been looking for ways to make and save a few $$$. |
Oldrustycars, do you have a part numbers for your setup?
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the bearing is available at any bearing supply, like Motion Industries. The thrust washers at any good hardware store. Don't use flat washers, get proper thrust washers, they are ground perfectly flat. Any parts in the box are available at any Cub Cadet dealer. |
Curious to see how well your upgrade worked with the needle bearing.
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Great. with the light load on the steering box, I couldn't see it being an issue.
I might do this next. Thanks for the pics and links to part numbers. |
Dale:
I have a question. What about dust/dirt getting into that roller bearings...?? :bigthink: |
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I didn't have a good answer.....time for a few pictures. This is what the steering box looks like today that was done 7 years ago: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psemnfl7tn.jpg Closer view: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psplsr3yrt.jpg There was a little grease around the lever and bolt assembly: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps9opbf91d.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psof2jm37x.jpg The 70 is the most used IH Cub Cadet I have. I do not use this Cub to mow the grass or plow snow. To the best of my knowledge I never done any cleaning around the steering box. I sprayed parts of my yard Wednesday and Thursday. The 70 steered just as easy today as it did when I rebuilt it 7 years ago. |
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