What gear oil in a 104
 

I just bought a 104 with a 3 speed and want to change the gear oil. What should i use and how much should it take. I think i found the drain and fill plugs. The fill is in the rear on the cover plate right?, thanks

Hi Billy!
The product that you are looking for is not really gear oil .I think it is called Hy -Tran . I have a 104 since '72 when I bought it used and I've never changed it the tractor is old enough and that stuff is suppossed to be good enough that I'm almost scared to change it.
If one of the forum cub masters say something else so be it . One repair guy told me not to worry about a change and when you find it and price it you may feel the same it ain't cheap. good luck

garden trac 104

Billy,

All the info you need can be found in the operator manual: http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x4-5%20Operator%20Manual.pdf

or the service manual: http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x4-5%20Service%20Manual.pdf

Hy-Tran is recommended for gear and hydro drive tractors.

Jeff (teet)

Billy Teet is spot on Hy-Tran. It's not cheap but it worth every penny. Now on to ways on how to save money one buying Hy-Tran (this has been posted many times before) sure you can get it at your local cub dealer or you can take 2-4 gallon container to your local Case, IH dealer ship and see if you can buy it out of their bulk 55 gallon drum. I think you'll find it well worth the savings to buy it out of the drum. Keep in mind if you don't have access to a Case/IH dealership it's still worth the cost from your local cub dealer.

Here's a great thread on Hy-Tran

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...hlight=hy-tran

And you ask how to locate your local Case/IH dealership.

http://www.caseih.com/northamerica/P...erLocator.aspx

BillyF:

First, welcome to our Forum........... :Welcome2:

Here is a handy Transmission Lubrication Chart as found in our Technical Library Section to help you out...... Chart

:Welcome2:

I forgot about that link Roland thanks for posting it.

:WWP:

Thanks for all the info, i'm going to stop buy the local dealer and see about it. I have no idea when or if it's ever been changed so i'll just do it.

Lack of oil or changing it, would that cause it tough to put in gear? I have to try a couple times and sometimes it grinds, but then other times it goes right in. Is that normal for a 42 yr old machine?

Hi Billy ! Just got done with a long message to you but somehow It got lost I'll try the same but not like a letter. check this out--
Take a look @ your clutch lever mounting bracket==
take off clutch sheild behind engine(two bolts) remove sheild you can now see the arm and bracket-chk the arm bracket top for tight to the metal close to battery tray - engine OFF SPARK PLUG UN PLUGGED manually work clutch pedal up and down -look @ top of arm and note if the metal the clutch bracket for arm is bending damaged or about to break. this can make clutch adjustment hard and if it breaks you got problems ! this area is about the only place on the tractor with thinner metal -it was something that happened to me and required a little weld action. good luck you have a great tractor .I've had mine for a long time and would'nt givee it up

Billy,

:Welcome2: No, your clutch should not grind the gears. It depends on how your clutch is adjusted......which yours sounds like it needs adjustment. Here is a quick check you can do to determine that......while running your cub, depress the clutch pedal and hold it for a minute or so....at least 30 seconds (count it out), then try to shift into a gear. Chances are that it won't grind. I think your driveshaft is still spinning while you are still trying to shift, even though your clutch pedal is depressed and that is what is causing the grinding sound. You can adjust your clutch braking as described above and as described in your owner's manual to stop the driveshaft faster once you depress the clutch pedal. Hope this helps.

Oh, I would change out my transmission fluid regularly as moisture can sometimes build up and prevent it from performing properly or doing damage. It does cost a little, but really what are your tools/equipment worth to you? Proper/preventative maintenance can save you big $$$ in repair bills!!!:bigthink:

Cub Cadet 123

Hey cub 123! I have a 104 and I have the same kind of clutch adjustment concerns as billy . I had arm bracket pull loose and had to readjust the clutch . how do you adjust the clutch to stop the driveshaft faster . Have you ever needed to replace a release lever as a result of the mounting holes beening too worn. this is going to be part of my winter tractor job .have you ever heard of any one repairing a pin on a drive plate ? or trying to tighten pressure plate roll pin holes that are worn Thanks excuse a butt in -seems all related

Teet has already answered the clutch question for you in his post #3 of this thread. Here's a link to it. The links he posted will answer your questions about the clutch. Print out the pages that you need and take it to the shop with you.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...31&postcount=3

Our site sponser Binder Books has manuals you can purchase so you can sit down and put your thumb on the pages while you read. The site sponsers are at the top of every page. I promise you they will take great care of you and your cub needs.

so according to the chart you can use just sae 30 motor oil in the rear end for a gear drive?

I think that may mean 30W gear lube. What I usually do to save some $$$ is put the Hytran I drained out of hydro tractors in the gear drives I have if it looks ok and doesn't smell burnt.

can a person use a NON cub cadet brand hytran? i think ive seen universal hydraulic transmission fluid before

duke thanks I'm on dial up (dsl not in my rural area) the download for service manual is over 3 hrs -maybe I'll go to the wifi bakery and download I have a jensales manual for clutch adj --is that what will make the shaft slow down faster or brake adjustment

Thanks

Honestly, both of you probably need to rebuild your clutch. Hard shifting/grinding gears usually means the pilot bearing is gunked up and sticking. You can't adjust that out.

I'd make a new driveshaft, have the pressure plates trued up on a lathe, get a new pilot bearing, throwout bearing, main spring, teaser spring, friction disc, and spirol pins, and replace any other parts that are worn.

Looks ok = looks clean. Oil drained out of any of my engines at oil change time is most certainly not clean, and therefore does not get re-used. Do you really think I'm that stupid?? An engine and gear drive transmission are completely different in terms of lubrication requirements, which is why I can get away with this and don't really appreciate being made fun of for doing so.

The hydro needs clean Hytran, and the change interval is 100 hours. If I didn't overheat the hydro and screw up the Hytran or throw a bunch of dirt in it when I changed it, it's nice, clean and barely used, compared to the dirty, dingleberry-infested crap that had thousands of hours on it and had been in most of my gear drive tractors since the day they left the factory. In a hydro, the fluid is used for power transmission, lubrication, and cooling...in a gear drive, just lubrication and a slight amount of cooling. I'd rather re-use the barely-used Hytran than some inferior off-brand fluid that isn't going to absorb any water that happens to get in there.

Try maintaining seven tractors on a college student's minimum-wage, part time income, and you'll see why I'm reusing any Hytran that still has some life left in it in my gear drives. Excuse me for trying to save some money so I have some to spend on proper repairs for things that break, instead of trying to kludge something together with what I have laying around because I spent all of my money on new Hytran for my gear drive tractors.

thanks matt-I know your right -

hey W Bill! I need to change my fluid and fix up my clutch on back . I had a shop fix my clutch and they left the clutch driving disk springs off. when I asked the repair guy about it he said I didn't need them . If you don't need um how come ? This could be a case of a reason that he left them off . What might be the reason ? He's the same guy that told me not to worry about changing the hy-tran said might cause leaks . I wonder how many guys that have old cubs and don't have time to work on them and end up paying for new parts and getting used or how many dentists poke holes in kids teeth that don't have a cavity . I appreciate the input so far on line the learning curve on navigating the site is some what difficult to me -so is typing --how come they call you wild ha!

Sounds like time to find someone new to work on your cubs for you. They are there to stop the clutch plate from rattling, needed maybe not but stops the clutch disc from rattling, and they are like $2.50 each so not really a cost savings but they are meant to be there. The hy-tran should be changed and to suggest that it doesn't need to be is misguided at best. One of the reasons these old cubs last so long is how well they were made, but no matter how well something is built it still needs to be properly mainted.

Going to send you a pm about getting the clutch part of the manual to you so you can get your clutch adjusted right. I was not aware of the dial up service that you have.

hi methos! I have a manual from jensales inc service manual for 72 104 105 124 125 and have clutch and brake pedal linkage adjustments free play clearance etc. I am concerned about the condition of the driving disk pressure plate locating hub and driving plate assembly. I ran on two drive pins last season . I don't think it was put together right to start with . If you want something done right etc q-I know about the throw out bearing and release lever and yoke what about "pilot" bearing Location etc ever hear of anybody welding the broken pin back on the driving plate assembly with sucsess? Got any cost saving words of wisdom. thanks for be'in a pal

Only cost savings words of wisdom I can offer is contact Mark IH Cub Cadet Parts. MArk is a site sponser and see what he thinks. I wouldn't trust a welded pin on my cub. If it that weld gives out your looking at more parts to replace and a serious saftey hazard. You might want to post a wanted post in the wanted section of the site looking for a good used part, or contact Patton Acres or Cub Classics via email or phone call.

Having those manuals is huge plus!

Hope this helps.

hi duke ! THanks for the advice! I wonder if it is common to loose a pin on a drive plate and if not is there possibly an alignment problem that might cause that pin to be stressed and how to fix it .I have broken 2 drive plates now and I try to treat her gently. Like I said earlier last season I mowed on two pins and it's working now . I had a 12 horse put on about 10 or twelve years ago and it runs and starts well . That gave the 104 a little more poop . I noticed that the piece on top of the carb that connects to the governor control rod has a bit of play and seems to wiggle. Is that ok ? MY ENGINE is black and when I do the clutch I guess I might as well paint it. I did some lookn around and got 2 qts of 759-323263 cadet yellow at a dealer that had been on the self for a while hope they're ok know anything about unopened shelf life of cadet paint? I also got valspar tractor impl-4432-15 i h white on closeout 2 qts each 24 bucks for all 4 qts i have more time than money . I have a 21 gal compressor and a hvlp gun can't wait to see her cutting grass in the yard on a nice day . Any words of wisdom on this discussion paint etc I like to hear from you cub brother! THANKS

I know enough about paint to know I know nothing but here's a link for you on the topic. There are several guys on here that can flat out lay the paint.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=7790

So yea i tried to download the manuel too, but have dial-up also...i gave up after 1 1/2 hours!!!.....I took a look at the clutch lever today, and adjusted the bolt and lock nut at the bottom of the trans. I guess that's the brake?....All i did was back off the lock nut, and screw the bolt in alittle until it started to tighten up, then tightened the nut back down. I started it up and then pushed the clutch petal down, and the drive shaft slowed right away, but would move like a 1/4" at a time here and there. I didn't drive it yet. Should i tighten up the brake alittle more?


Also, i was at tractor supply today....Does the universal tractor hydralic/transmission fluid work?....It had case/IH specs on the back...

thanks for everyone's input.......

The brake doesn't affect the clutch operation. Like I said in a previous post, the pilot bearing is probably dry and needs to be relubed so the driveshaft can spin freely in it.

Pilot or throwout?....didn't think it would have a pilot bearing. And can i lube it while it's in there, and with what.

I did feel behind the clutch lever for the throwout bearing, and it feels like it's spinning freely......., thanks

Pilot bearing...in the clutch driver.