100 resto
 

Well, I've been wanting to restore a tractor for years...since my freshman year of high school. Now that it's the summer between my sophmore/junior year of college, and most likely the last summer I'll spend at home....I decided to bite the bullet and start working on one...with some luck, it'll be done by RPRU in Madison, Wisconsin, this July.

I am going to bring this June (or was it July?) 1964 100 parts tractor back to life. The pictures show what I've done so far, which isn't much. I just picked up the metal for the new driveshaft...4140 chrome-moly steel...that should last awhile. The engine had been sitting for at least 15 to 20 years by my estimate. The valves are in great shape, and there was only a slight ridge on the top of the bore. Everything is within wear limits, so it's getting a new standard rod and rings, governor gear, gaskets, etc.

Hey klejeune, I'll finally have a use for one of your battery decals...:beerchug: Thanks again for those!

Good luck, on your 100 restore Matt! :beerchug:

Thanks ACecil!

My order from McMaster-Carr came in less than 24 hours after I placed it. Can't beat that...

I now have a bunch of new parts for the 100...tie rod ends (the heim joints are for the 782D and loader 124), SS acorn nut for the steering wheel, ball bearing balls for 6 steering columns, very-close-to-correct wire loom for the wiring harness, and neoprene to make some new gaskets for the rearend.

I'm going to be anxious to see this one! I'm sure it will be done right! This will be a good one to watch as you keep us informed of the progress. :drool2:

Going to be cool for sure! Hope I can get down to the RPRU to see it!

Keep the pics coming :beerchug:

Matt G
I have a 70 I want to make in to a 100 and with your vast knowledge please make us a very detailed visual catalogue of your work.

Didn't get much else done tonight...the "old" frame, pedastal, and front axle are out of the way now...I'm slowly cleaning small parts...My parents got me this stuff called "Evapo-Rust" that works really well for removing rust from parts. You basically put enough in a plastic container to cover whatever part you want to clean, leave it overnight, and then scrub/wire wheel it lightly the next day. It takes the rust right off, and it's real safe...you can stick your hands in it with no worries.

I finally got the brake puck out of the rear...the little ball is stuck bad in it. I ground a flat spot on it and tried to spin it with a punch, to no avail, so I had my dad weld a 5/8" nut onto the puck so I could connect a slide hammer and pull it out. 2 pulls and it's out. I broke the nut off and I still have to grind the weld remnants off. I removed what was left of the brake pad itself from the puck, and I drilled a 3/16" hole through the puck to try to knock the ball out with a punch. No luck so far...it's soaking in Evapo-Rust. Hopefully tomorrow I can get that ball out, get a new ball, weld up the hole I drilled, and put it back together enough so I can wheel the rear out to the water hose to degrease it. I'll soon be ordering decals and buying paint and primer so I can start getting serious...

Going to look great Matt G.

I agree, you got to love McMaster-Carr. I order things for here at home Plus we order at work. Cant think of a time that the order was never here the next day.

Great looking project. Enjoy it and your summers, you'll miss them soon enough!

Any chance of getting some McMaster-Carr part numbers on those rod ends and ball bearings? I have a 70 that's going to get a nice, long, leisurely restore over the next year or so, and as I recall the dealer parts to rebuild my last steering column were a bit pricey. Looks good and update with pics as you go.:beerchug:

Toyman-

6058K28 for the OEM style tie rod ends. $5.09 each, currently.

Hey Matt,
Looking forward to seeing the progress on your 100. I wish I could get the gumption to work on mine. Funny, the brake puck on mine is the same as yours. Pivet ball is rusted solid in there. Good idea welding the nut on there to pull the puck out. I was going to try and drill into the ball and see if I could pull it out similar to the way you threaded a puck on a different tractor. I was then going to thread the hole in the puck and pull it out same as you did. I can weld better than I can drill straight so that will work better.

I wish I could make it up to WI for RPRU. I had fun last year, and have always wanted to go to WI. Maybe someday.

Keith...you won't be able to drill the ball...it's a ball bearing and so it's hardened. I'll find out in about 15 min. if my rust converter solution cleaned it enough to remove the ball.

If I don't get this done by RPRU, I have no idea what I'm taking...I'm not sure if the 782D would be ok or not since it's not IH built...:bigthink:

The ball is out! A few hits with a large hammer and a punch took it out by way of the small hole I drilled through the back. After the hole is welded back up, I'll put on a new O-ring and reinstall it so I can wheel the rear out to the hose to degrease it.

These 3 things work wonders for cleaning stuff...

Made some progress on the 100 this weekend.

The box of clean and almost clean parts is getting more full every day. More parts are awaiting another round of paint stripper. I spent a lot of time fixing about a dozen extra holes drilled into the hood by a PO, as well as wear notches from the round things on the pedastal that hold the hood shut. While not perfect, this is a huge improvement over the jagged notch that was there... I also spent about an hour with a hammer and anvil beating out wavy spots and dents in the hood. It's not perfect, but pretty straight.

I'm still hoping to get this done by RPRU. I'll be ordering decals and buying paint from a local place in the next week. The engine needs to come the rest of the way apart so I can decide what all I need to order yet...I've got rings and a governor and gasket set, but I need a rod, dipstick, and probably some other odds and ends.

I'm gonna have to pick up a can of body filler too...there's a lot of pits in the steering column.

Nice Matt,
I too am looking forward to your progress!!
Are you going to use the stripper on all the metal?I have never used a paint stripper before,I bet it would speed up my sand blasting!! Ive been using the neighbors blaster,Id say i spend 3 times as much time waiting for it to get to 150 psi as i do blasting!!!Its more powerful than my little hand held though.Took me 2 1/2 hours to blast the O's dash pedestal today!!!But there is great conversation between times.
I was also intrested in Scotts muratic acid dip but im a bit leary of the acid.

Good luck and enjoy yourself!!!
Jason

Matt G, Looking good. I see your single edged razor blade. That's work. Are the done parts the result of the chemical paint remover? They are clean enough to eat off of. Really nice prep work.

Matt,
Great restore project. I have had a 100 for about 5 yrs now and plow snow with it. They are great tractors...Good luck

J.T.

RPalmer,

Not quite. Nearly everything has a combination of old paint and rust on it, so I first remove the paint with the paint stripper, wire wheel to remove most of the rust, and then dunk it in the rust converter solution overnight, which loosenens the remaining paint and removes the rust. I can then wire wheel again to get everything as shiny as it is.

Looking good Matt :ThumbsUp:

Awesome work Matt! I can't wait, to see your 100 finished! :beerchug:

I guess I won't try drilling the ball, didn't think of it being hardened.

Looking forward to paint pics!

I made slight progress on the 100 today. I trued up some pressure plates and removed 95% of the paint from the dash tower. I found the spot welds holding the mangled battery box on, which I'll drill out tomorrow to see if I need to fix it or make a new one. I also painted the steering worm shaft between the worm and the splines to keep it from getting any more pitted than it already is. That part wasn't painted originally.

I will tell you , you have way more patients than I do. I would be on my 10th wire wheel already :biggrin2.gif:


coming along good.

I made a bit more progress on the 100...I spent most of the day making tools. I made a electrolytic derusting tank. Right now the flywheel shroud is in it. I use an old mower blade as the sacrificial metal. When the electrode is clean, it'll pull 3.5 amps on a 3 amp charger. I guess I need a bigger battery charger.

I was also working on another setup...not finished yet. Anyone want to guess what it's for? It's the rightmost picture...

JayBrd-

I've only used one wire wheel. Paint doesn't come off with a wire wheel, which is why I let paint stripper do the work. You'd be amazed what a can of paint stripper and a dull razor blade will remove.

beats me, what that other setup?

The other setup is for zinc plating IH bolts and other hardware...I'll start trying that out when these severe storms move out and I can get in the garage...

Daggone Matt, you are one talented young man!:clap:

IH bolts are plating as we speak...

1st batch looks pretty good:)

I now need to make a tumbler to polish them in after they come out of the plating tank...what kind of abrasive should I use? I'm thinking sand. Wire wheeling these bolts to polish them after plating gets old fast...

Hey Matt, those look great! Have you thought about corn cob media like used for polishing brass for reloading? There is also walnut shell media with a polish coated on it.

I have a vibrating tumbler I could let you barrow when you're up next week, But I would need it back when we finish up on the 86..


Let me know.

JayBrd-

No need, I'm going to build my own tonight. I'm an engineer, you know...:)

Matt
I have seen in other posts of you attending school, you sound like you should be the teacher instead of the student

Got my bolt tumbler done...I have a total of $0 in this...It turns the paint can at about 60 rpm. Should work good once I find something to put in it.

Matt G.

You da man! :ThumbsUp:

That's neat Matt! Thanks for sharing.

Matt
For the electrolysis, do you have to remove the paint or will the process remove the paint also???

Im getting info right now,Im gonna have the kids get involved in this one,BUT i wanna be able to teach them!!!MOre info to get!!!!!!
Neat projects.....Great Job
thanks
Jason

67hydro-

Yes, it will remove the paint as well...which is very handy.

Thanks Matt
I found a way to make my own laundry soda,Im going to have the kids do that also!!! Headed to raid the wifes baking soda!!

Now to learn the chemecial process ,and more about the electrolysis process...How it works

Thanks for your Help
Jason

Matt G, Nice job on the tumbler. And the price is right.

Suggestion: Rather than make your own (you can do that by putting baking soda in the oven at 300 deg. F or so for half an hour), I'd simply buy it from a grocery store. It's like $3 for a 2 or 3 lb. box. What is supposed to work better is TSP (Tri-sodium phosphate...look for it in the stripper aisle of a paint store or hardware store) and that is what I'm using on my larger tank.