Help Please CUB 1811 WILL NOT GO FORWARD OR REVERSE
 

Hello all,

Had my wonderful Cub 1811 out just last week pulling a plug aerator around the yard here in Maryland and everything was great. Put it in the garage for a few days to let the ground dry out. Went out today, started it but it will not go in to forward or reverse or raise or lower the mower deck. I assume the hydro pump has gone bad.

Eric

Have you checked the fluid level?
Is the pump shaft turning while the motor is running. Will have to take the tunnel cover off to verify. One of the shaft pins may have sheared to the pump shaft.

Yeah I checked the fluid and it was perfect

I dont seem to be hearing the usual whine of the hydro pump. I dont have a shop manual on it so Im trying to figure out how to get to the pump itself.

Thank you for the reply

Eric

Here is the Chassis manual for the 82 series, should be the same thing:
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/82-72%20Se...s%20Manual.pdf

Thank you very very much

I pulled the cover below the seat. The drive shaft to the hydro pump is not turning. The forward and reverse lever linkage all is intact. So I guess its safe to assume the pump shaft connection at the engine is broken.........I guess

Cant thank you enough for the manual. It looks like the Roll Pin may be broken on the front end of the shaft. No the question is where to get one and how hard it is to replace it. I assume the Roll Pin is the same principle as a shear pin on an outboard motor shaft

I get mine at Ace Hardware. Just make sure you get a "Spiral" Pin and not a roll pin. I would suggest our sponsors at the top of the page if you don't have a cub dealer nearby. The pins are not too bad. Pick up some PB Blaster and start spraying it down for a couple of days to soak in. Get a 1/4 inch punch, long shaft. The manual should help.

I think the front pin on hydro's is a harden 1/4 x 1 1/2 steel pin. I don't think it was a spiral pin. I have an 1811 and can't remember. If it was a harden pin you'll have to remove the drill shaft to get a new 1 in.

Thats correct. I Just tried to remove the same part with a punch 2 hours ago and it shattered. So, i shattered other side to get motor out of the junker. Its definitely not a spirol pin by any means !! :beerchug:

What does the spirol pin look like ? The pin in the rear of the shaft looks like a piece of flat metal rolled in to a pin.

I looked in the manual but didnt see the steps to replace the front pin. I do have an ACE near by that deals with Cubs so I can order the correct pin. I also went to Cubs corp. site part finder and could not exactly identify the exact pin for the front

Just basing it on the Cub Cadet parts site. They only list 1/4" Spiral Pins for use.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b.../SpiralPin.jpg

YOU SIR ARE BAD A$$

Thank you very much !!!!!!!

It looks like I'll have to remove the fuel tank to get to this rascal

Just to clarify, that hardened steel pin is used only up to the 1x9 tractors. After that, 82 series and CCC tractors included, only spirol pins are used until the cyclops series when they changed the driveshaft.

If you have multiple tractors, the bags of 25 spirol pins from McMaster-Carr are cheaper than buying 2 or 3 individual ones from Cub Cadet or just about anywhere else.

Matt,

You happen to have the McCarr number for the spiral pins?

You might consider replacing those flex discs if you are into that far. They do weaken and wear out after several years. Just a thought.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#pins/=bnfq9k

(404) 629-6500.

91598A486 should be the number

Thanks for the part number!
I will be ordering some soon.

95755A419 for the heavy-duty ones...they are about 40% stronger, and are the ones I use.

The actual correct name for the pins is "Coiled Spring Pin". "Spirol" is actually a brand name.

AJ

Thanks Matt!