1450 wont crank, electrical help please!
 

No crank condition after parking my 1450. It plowed the driveway all winter, started every time no drama, last time it ran 2 weeks ago it was fine in the yard, moved a jetski… a utility trailer, and parked it in the shed. Now It wont crank without jumping the battery to the starter solenoid or starter directly. Will only start if i jump the battery positive to the solenoid and turn the key, it runs until i remove the jumper then dies. Spent alot of time going over the wiring diagrams to test the starter switch, solenoid, and safety switches.

I have noticed something odd while testing the circuits, it looks like the starter solenoid has 12V until i turn the key to on, then neither large terminal on it has power and none at the small terminal either. Turning the key to start does not change this, so ive traced the power up to the pto switch so far, a red wire on it gets 12v with the key turned to start. Thats as far as i get!

Can anyone help me understand this specific condition? Stumped here, im not a wiring guy but im determined to run this tractor again!!!

Thanks all!

-J

First, welcome to OCC........ :Welcome2:

In order for the 1450 to start, two things need to be done. (A) The PTO switch has to be in the off position, and (B) the LH Brake Pedal must be despressed to engage the Neutral Safety Switch.

Are these things being done?

:bigthink:

Hi and thank you!

Yes both are in the correct positions, so I played with them switching the PTO on and off, and same with the brake pedal, though ultimately i installed a jumper on each clutch and safety switch to bypass them.

-J

Do you have a DVM or VOM ??

:bigthink:

Try wiggling the ign switch wire connection on the back of the switch,they are known for having corroded terminals.

Im not sure i know the difference, believe the type of meter is auto-ranging digital volt / ohm meter.

Thanks there was only a little corrosion and slight damage to the plastic connector around the green wire, i brushed up and greased these as well as the solenoid leads, battery ground to chassis, the coil wires, and just think next i may do the same to the engine ground although it seems to work.

Wondering now if my positive battery cable is shorting on the frame some where or in rough shape. Would that be why the meter shows no voltage on the solenoid terminal when the key is on? Too weak?

Also this is with a full battery and a jumper and charger on between tests.

DVM = Digital Volt Meter
VOM = Volt Ohms Meter


With either meter set on the DC Scale (ie: 0-20VDC or more) attach the Black lead to the Battery Negative terminal. With the Red lead, attach it to the small terminal on the Stater Solenoid. Turn the Ignition Switch (provided the two previous mentioned switches are still jumped out) to the "start" position. Do you have 12VDC going to the Solenoid ???

:bigthink:

Thank you, unfortunately no, with this check the battery side of the solenoid large post by the fuel tank is metering 12v then dropping to 0v with the ignition turned to on, and turned to start there is 0v on the solenoid small post.

Run a "jump wire" from the Large (Red) battery cable terminal to the small starter terminal on the solenoid. Does the engine roll over ??

:bigthink:

Jumper from batt (+) to the small it clicks the solenoid but does not crank the starter. I found that moving the jumper to the large solenoid post (+) line and turning the key will start the engine and it will run with the key left on as normal.