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k series average running temp, at the head?
I have an issue to resolve with the k301 in my 124.
I just need to know what the average running temp is at the head for these engines. To be exact, I need to know what the temp range would be where the head meets the block, near the exhaust valve. |
Considering normal or stock operations, and a clean motor, I have read "ambient temperature + 250°F".
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tomorrow, I will get you a true reading. I'm gonna work out my 1200 again, but with a fulll tank this time. Been wondering these things myself, just needing to do the measurements. got an IR Thermometer that can do the test, but I get to cutting grass and off I go.
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Thanks both of you. An exact reading will help some more. I've got an issue.
My k301, is 44 years old, and has never been apart. I can't afford a proper rebuild, so the piston can not be removed IE: ovaling of the cylinder, etc. It has a head gasket problem, where the area was leaking for so long, it left a rusted depression in the block, and even a new gasket after minor filing didn't fix it. If I send it out to be decked, I'll most likely have to gut it, which is a no no. So, I had this crazy idea.......duct tape the crap out of it, use my small hand sandblaster and clean the rusted depression, then furnace cement and when hard, file, and plate sand it. I'm not positive about how it will work, but despite the redneckness of it, it may work. If not, I take it to the machine shop. I just don't have the time to go without it for more than a week, and unless decking can be accomplished without tearing it down, It just won't happen. The cement I use holds up to my stove hitting 650-900f regularly, and doesn't breakdown. |
Your stove doesn't have 10 hp impacts 2 x every second.... heat isn't the only thing to consider. I would rather take out the valves, and deck it myself with a 4 inch grinder and some glass to check flatness. Smoothness is not the critical part. Flatness is the important part.
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True about the throws. I need to call the local machine shop tomorrow.
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Sorry. I failed you today. had my 1200 nice and hot, and the baby needed my attention. Off I went.
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Thanks anyways. I tore it down, bought 3 12" mill files, and stared filing the deck. I've got alittle more to go...takes alot of arm work and I keep checking the flatness of the whole block. But, I have a feeling it will work.
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You could of used a copper gasket. Heated it up till it changed color (let it air cool so it stays soft)
Then put a thin even coat of black rtv (napa brand always seems to work the best) Reinstall it and let it sit for a few hours before starting it. Run it till it gets hot. Then cool it back down and check the torque again. |
I did a temp check today. Its 88 degrees ambient temp outside.
After about 1 hour of mowing dense grass WOT. Low battery- Don't know if that will change matters, but I had to add the detail. Makes me want to do a comparison, after I can do it fully charged- and with same conditions. 350 degrees on the head 385 degrees on the exhaust flange. My 1200 has all the tins on motor, and body panels. Just no exhaust box. Seems according to Roland's post that Im close to expected temp. |
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