Hydro relief valves
 

Hello again all. This is a continuation of a previous impliement thread. I just purchased a CC1450 hydro. One of the relief valves, the left as you stand at the rear facing forward, is squirting hydrualic fluid while the engine is running. The valve on the right is dry. Am I correct in suspecting there is a blockage somewhere creating an over pressure causing the valve to open. I pulled the valve and found it to be clean and all parts move freely.
I purchased this 1450 to solve a sleave hitch and tiller issue. I had a CC680 but discovered the 680 had an alluminum transmission case. It wasn't designed for a sleave hitch or a #2 tiller. So as the saying goes, if you cant lower the water, raise the bridge. The 1450 with it's cast iron trans case was designed for the #2.
Any way, if anyone is familiar with the relief valve and hydro trans, your input would be appreciated. Thanks.
:American Flag 1:

I do believe the valve squirting fluid is no longer good. Time for another one. Does the valve have a push button on the top or is it flat and one piece? The flat ones are automatic and much better than the old manual valves. You don't have to use the lever on the side of the tunnel to move the Cub if you have the automatic valves.

hydro valves
 

I had the same problem with mine ... fluid squriting thru the center top hole...new they are $110 ... so I looked for an alternative...found A guy / machinist out of Ohio that will rebuild them for $35 ea.
I had him do mine 2 mnths ago and all is well. If you can't find him on ebay i've got him stored ...let me know i'll send you the info

Bryan

valve rebuild
 

here's the guy

http://cgi.ebay.com/Cub-Cadet-Auto-M...item4aa9721237

You can new ones for about $60.00 from here....... Hydro Valves

All thanks again for your input. Since I posted this thread, I went and read the manual for my 1210/680. The 680 and 1450 both have hydrostatic drives. I compared some of the photos in the manual, they appear to be very simmilar. In the text, it mentioned the relief valves, there are two, are interchangable. So I went out and flipped them and started the tractor. The one that was originally not leaking began squirting. The one that originally was squirting was now dry. Ah ha I said, bad valve. I ran up to my local CC dealer got a new valve, $160.00 and replaced it. Started up the tractor. Now both valves new and old are squirting. I now believe there is something going on inside either the pump or the hydraulic motor. Your thoughts

The valves are automatic. The check ball and spring move freely

You said.....
OK....just exactly where is it "squirting"...??? Do you have pictures of this....???

A common place for fluid to leak is out the vent hole at the top of the Valve. See Attachment.

The reason fluid leaks out the vent hole, is because there is an internal "O Ring" seal that fails. See Attachment.

When this happens, Check or Relief Valve replacement is due.

I can't speak for everyone, but that is what I thought you were talking about.

That there is why it isn't the valves, because you switched them and the problem didn't switch sides.

The valves, new and old, are squirting from the vent holes.