new owner: 1650 problems w/ PTO
 

Can someone make a suggestion?

I just got a 1650- which is quite nice. Did some tuneup stuff and it seems to run well. The previous owner said the PTO switch was bad and had it wired into the headlights.
So, I got a new switch- worked for 45 minutes and now nothing.

What Amperage fuses do the CC's take? Is this a normal failure mode for a PTO field? I saw online ppl re-wrapping them but would rather replace.. all the threads no one discloses what gauge/length of wire they use. Is it ussually just the field? Ie I'd like to save a few bucks. How about using the JD field as they are less expensive?
But tell me if the best route is just a new assy..

ANy help to get me cutting again would be appreciated. I don't have the operators or owners manuals yet.

Michael

Not much I can help with regarding the actual problem but here are some manuals you will need. :beerchug:

Here is the link for the Service manual, you can download and print it.

http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x8-9%20&%...e%20Manual.pdf

Operator's Manual:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/pdf/QL%20Op%20Manual.pdf

Electric PTO adjustment page:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30

15 Amp is the Maximum size. The PTO itself will draw 3-4 Amps.

Well that should give me a good start!

If anyone can offer up normal failure modes and problems. It would be very helpful.


Michael

Usually with Elec PTO's they are like a light bulb. They are either good and working, or they are bad (open, burnt, or shorted windings).

The above link(s) tells you how to check the resistance to the field coil.

has anyone ever looked to see if an a/c or airpump engagement coil would be the same dimensions. They are in the $20-30 range depending on vehicle.

I'll see if there is voltage to the switch with the PTO disconnected. Check the fuse. Then if nothing seems obvious- I'll pull the PTO. I don't have an amp meter so I must rely on the ohm measurement.


Michael

Something else I just thought about that some other guys in here had an issue with causing something like what you are experiencing is the PTO bearing is just bad enough that after some time and use it heats up to the point it seizes. They have had good success getting the old bearing out and putting a new one in it's place.

Big thanks to all...

Sounds like I'll probably pull the hood and front off the tractor. I'll take the PTO off and clean everything. Heck- maybe put a new seal on the motor. Then, I can get to the root cause by bench testing resistance, bearing condition, air gap.
On cars, I've seen oily clutches give problems. Heck, maybe I'll get luck. Tractor is only indicating 578 hrs!


Michael

Keep in mind the hour meter can roll over, so it may have some multiple of 600 (or is it 660? Can't remember...)+578.

Ok,

I finally took a closer look at things last night. The clutch coil measures 3.8~3.9 ohms which is good. Wire was attached firmly at the coil. The fuse is checked out good.
Bearing doesn't have any play in it and turns smoothly. Belt isn't broken or burned up.
The IH manual wiring diagram is quite poor. For the switches, it doesn't show the conductivity within the switch. Simply the wires to the switch.
When the PTO switch is in the off position- do the 2 yellow wires connect and when it's "on" does it simply connect the 2 brown wires.
Maybe the wire came off the fuse holder... I'll check that tonight.

Michael