ISO info on my 1450
 

I recently picked up my first dual hydro 1450 and I'm going to start to restoring it in the near future. I am not familiar with the ISO mounted engines. I saw a modification the can be made . I have never messed with this model . so here comes the dumb questions. Do I have to buy the cradle or do i just weld the extra piece of metal towards the front. any help would be appreciated...

You're just welding in a piece of flat stock.

A caveat: Most write-up's on this show using the oil pan to hold the rails in place while you weld in the crossmember. I did this, and now my rails won't go back in, they're way off from the four mounting holes.

I need to grind out the welds and try again. I figure it must be because the holes where the oil pan bolts to get egged out over time.

So next try, I'll mount the rails on to the frame, AND put the oil pan in place, THEN weld in the crossmember.

Here's the guide from the tech section of the site.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4630

Even though you bolt the rails to the oil pan the heat of the weld will cause the metal to warp and once you remove the bolts the rails will pull together on the side away from the brace you welded in.

You can use something like a small jack between the rails on the rear and spread them to the right dimensions. It doesn't take much so don't over expand them.

Spread them a little bit and check, and if they need more do it again untill all 4 bolt holes line up.

do you think that maybe the washer you stuck in the wore-out frame hole mite be out of place?:bigthink:

Looking at the picture he posted, it would be impossible for it to be off that far...it definitely warped.

Dave-

Got an oxyacetylene torch? If so, heat your new welds and the general area around them to a dull red and let it air cool. That will remove residual stresses in the cradle from the welding process, and it should move back where it belongs.

If you weld it with a mig or arc welder you should be fine. Welding it with a torch puts too much head in the metal and will cause warpage. I bolted my cradle to an old pan and did the weld with a mig welder. No problems at all with movement or warpage. Also, you really don't need to weld all the way around the joint. A couple good 3/4" welds on each side of the flat bar stock on each side of the cradle would be fine and reduce the chance of warpage.

I guess that must've been my problem - that the metal warped from welding.

Matt, you're saying that just by heating it back up and letting it cool, it's going to straighten out? That seems odd.

My rails are actually wider at the rear, farthest from the welds.

It seems that doing it the way I suggested here - mounting the rails into the frame first - would be the way to go. It's not going to be able to really warp if it's held in place. I probably did weld more than I needed to, increasing heat.

It is called stress relieving, and it will most likely work unless there is something else going on there, i.e. one of the rails is bent or it wasn't lined up right to begin with. Or maybe you've got a mis-formed rail. There are internal stresses in the weldment that were created by the uneven heating/cooling during the welding process.

thenrie-

That is pure BS...I have done a fair amount of MIG welding, and I can tell you that it is pretty common to have stuff warp all over the place. There are things you can do to minimize how much it warps, but it can still warp.