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K241 crankshafts
OK here we go;
I have bought 2 Kohler K241AS's at two different tractor shows last summer. I didn't give all that much for them, and figured I would rebuild them during the winter. After tearing them down I find they have identical problems, ie bad rings and bad crankshafts. (I love how both sellers told me how they just needed rings). Move ahead a couple weeks, and I have now bought 2 supposedly good crankshafts from ebay, only to find I now have 4 bad crankshafts (more honest sellers rrrrrr)! Now for the question of the day, does anyone out there rebuild these little crankshafts, ie build them up then turn them back down to original size, or do I keep searching for used cranks? All Advice heard and considered; Cadet Farmer:Irratated: |
The crankshafts are bad enough they can't be turned down?
You can get 10 and 20 under rods. I think even a 30 under is available out there. |
We have a shop in town that does flame spray to build up shafts.
Most of their work is for electric motor driven machinery. They do some precision work!!! But, probably at the cost, it might be better to "continue the hunt"!! :bigthink: |
If you have a good machine shop around they can grind the crank and put a bearing insert in the rod. Probably easier and cheaper than buying more cranks.I like the idea of having replaceable rod bearings.
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crankshaft problems
Well I have miked my collection of cranks, and they measure as follows, 1.59happy happy joy joy), 1.43, 1.39,1.32.
The manager at our local O'Reilly Auto Parts is checking to see if their machine shop can repair it for me back to standard, and what it will cost. He is a former go-cart racer and general small engine expert, and is generally a very helpful guy. At least one crank I have will let me build the one engine I need right now, even though I was saving that one for another engine, oh well the search for good parts continues. Cadet Farmer |
I'm beguining to get angry!
Ok I decided since I had one good crankshaft, I would resign myself to building the one engine I really need right now.
I installed the good crank into a good block, using a new rod with old main bearings that I percieve to be good, along with good valves and valve train after relapping, torqued the rod, etc, etc, I put the pan back on, I turned the engine upright and heard a little "tink" which concerned me, however I went on to check the valve timing one more time with the head off. I then decided this would be an excellent time to install the ignition points and gap them, head off valves and piston in view, wellll it would seem the push rod for the points is not moving, not stuck just not moving. Now is there any other possibility othe than a bad camshaft? Or do I get to take it apart and start over? Sure glad I don't know the names or locations of the guys that sold me these engines, because I am certainly losing my Christain attitude.:bash2::angry::Explode::Mad1: |
I think first things first I would pull the oil pan cover off and investigate the so called "tink" noise. Doesn't sound normal to me. Second I would take the points back off and hold finger pressure on the point push rod and turn the engine over to feel if there is actual movement. That would be the first on the agenda for me. Did you check the crank shaft end play also?
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Checks
I pulled the points off and checked to see if the rod moved, and I couldn't feel any movement when I turned the engine over, and yes I checked the crankshaft end play.
Cadet Farmer |
Sounds to me like your cam lobe for the points is bad. With the oil pan off you can view all that stuff and get to the bottom of said "tinking noise".
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