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1450 The more I dig the deeper it gets.
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As you know a while back I purchased a 1450 at auction.
It didn't look too bad, but it wouldn't start. It had most of the goodies I was looking for. Ag tires,wheel wts., 3pt lift and a mower. Even though the wheel wts. were home made and it was missing slde pannels and the coil was hanging by the wires and mower s belt covers are gone.I decided I would bid on it but put my limit at $260. |
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Well I got the tractor for less than my maximum. And I loaded it up on the trailer. We did get it to start on the trailer at the surprise to us on how loud it was. and it didn't smoke, not all things worked as they should. Lift operated both up and down. Mower stalled the the engine when engaged. Lights didn't work. But I did get it to start, that is after I cleaned a pound of feathers out of the air filter.The dipstick tube was bouncing around, and leaking oil all over the place. But after I changed the oil and put in the right oil in, it smoked. I took it up the hill and it smoked pretty much. so I pulled the engine. and seems it was worked on before. The bore is std. with .008 wear,, and the crank is .010 under. The rear main seal was leaking, and the head gasket was leaking. Was missing some screws and bolts hear and there also. Back to the cyl bore going to bore that to .010 over. That should do it no scratches to get rid of. The biggest concern is the .002 out of round, so we will have to get the crank turned to .020 under. I don't have a spare crank. so I hope this works out.
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While the engine was out I cleaned the inches of oily dirt off the frame. I then spotted the crackes in the frame. Check out these. A crack on each side, how do you say abuse. Now I'm trying to figure out how to fix this problem. any suggestions?
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And , someone switched the deck lift handle to the other side .
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That's not abuse, that's normal for a QL frame. Most of them crack there. Stop-drill the crack tip with a small (3/32" or smaller) drill bit and weld up the crack.
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Quote:
The 1450 isn't a bad looking tractor. Keep at it and she'll be a nice one for ya. Once all the bugs are worked out it will be a workhorse. |
I would do what matt said with the cracks and rebuild the engine. The handle I have heard of guys doing that,was someone on here had one like that. I think it would be more handy on the left anyways with the speed lever on the right.Good looking tractor !
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Welded before?
Kinda looks like it's been welded before, not unless my eyes are tricking me. These old eyes don't see as well as they used to. That's a good idea to drill the hole at the end of the crack but for some reason or another you don't get around to doing that fore you weld it,at the end of your weld come out of the puddle foward bout 1/4 and weld back in and fill your crater. But if you have time drilling is the way to go.
luke |
Thanks Matt. I give that a try.
Lukeott Nothing wrong with your eyes yes it has been welded before. I got out my handy dandy front frame cross member re compressor. 3/4" x 6" fine thread bolt and nut. Got the cross member back close to what it should be, and now the front axle don't move a half inch when the steering wheel is turned. But now for the BAD news. The crank had been worked on by a PO and the crank had been turned down .010" under. When the crank was checked it is .003" out of round. Now if I do the top end .010 over make it better than new. I'm looking at having to get a new crank. Or toss that engine and get a new engine. I don't know if I want to do that. maybe part this out to recoup my money and forget about it. :bigthink: |
I can understand why this was at auction. It's a money pit. :crap:
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