might have found me a good orignial
 

1978 model 1200 cub cadet 12hp kohler 44"cut new rear tires,new clutch runs snd mows great 600.00 obo


1330 cub cadet fresh oil change,new front wheels,tires and bearing all new belts new bearings, seals and blades on deck runs and mows great asking 500.00 obo

which would be better. the 1200 has ags on the rear the 1330 has turf tires

Depends on what you plan to do with it. The 1200 is a IH iron built precision piece of quality garden tractor machinery, while the 1330 is just a wimpy lawn tractor. If you want to do more than mow with it, get the 1200. If all you want to do is mow, then the 1330 would work, but I think you could get a better mower for $500.

AJ

I think I agree with ajgross, but where is the Original in all of this?

i thought the 1200 was an orginal, sorry. so you all say $600 is high priced.

I think they were commenting on the $500 for the 1330, which btw is considered a CCC product, not an IH.

What is meant among the enthusiasts here as an "Original" is the very first garden tractor that IH produced from 1961 to 1963. It had no model number so it's called the "Original". The 1200 is an IH made Cub Cadet garden tractor and is appropriate subject matter for this section. As for the $600 price, that would depend on condition and how much YOU think it's worth and how much YOU want it.

I paid $550 for my first cub, which was a 1200. At the time I was just nursing my wounds from repairing a NOMA POS mower for the umpteenth time at the rate of $270 plus to make it steer and mow again, so it seemed like a bargain. Since then all I have had to do with the 1200 is belts, points, and now a driveshaft coupler because of a hokey repair with the wrong roll pin. In retrospect it may have been slightly overpriced, but I won't sell it for $550 or even $650.....

That said, I would attempt to get the price down a hundred or so on the 1200...the new clutch is a definite plus, but check out the belts, idler pulleys,and driveshaft couplings.... Make sure the steering is tight and it doesn't need any new tie rod ends...and doublecheck the isolation mounts...If they are worn out and the isolation cradle is rubbing on the crossmember that holds the front end you will need about $100 in parts to fix it...not fixed it will ruin that driveshaft and clutch. and oil pan, and frame, etc.

thank you all for your time. i have been trying to get ahold of him during the day when im off, but i guess he works days and i work afternoons. i hope he still has it this weekend.

thanks for telling me what to look for.