Easy removal/installation of spiral pins
 

I was just reading a thread about putting anti-seize on spiral pins. I don't know if it helps or not (ask me in 40 years and I'll be able to tell you).

Anyway, I have had my share of mashed hands and skinned knuckles from driving in/out spiral pins, especially the "stubborn" ones.

Some time ago, I decided that most spiral pins aren't so much stubborn as they are hard to get a really good "smack" on with a hammer, so using my same theory about the use of a long extention on a ratchet, I came up with the idea that in order to get the job done, with as little discomfort as possible, you have to get the work out in the open where you can reach it.

On a gear drive tractor it is nearly impossible to hold the punch on the spiral pin and hit only the punch with a hammer. I made-up this "extention" for driving spiral pins out of tight places (get the work out in the open).

Since I have been using this home made apparatus, I have not had any problems driving spiral pins out. Usually about 2 good licks with a hammer and the pin is moving, depending on it's length, two more and the pin is out.
I have also found that (in almost every situation) it is best to grind the pin flush with whatever you are trying to knock it out of.

Granted... a sheared pin is a completely different story.

I have dial-up so I had to do this in two parts, or it wouldn't load.

Sometimes putting the pins back in can equally as frustrating. In the past, I have had problems with the pins (especially the extra strength ones) wanting to uncoil while being driven in, not like roll themselves out flat, but the outside edge sometimes doesn't want to go in with the rest of the pin and the pin will end up with an edge that sticks up past the rest of the pin and it will get a bulge in it near the top an then fold over the top of the center part. Wow, that should clear as mud...

So anyway, I used the same principle as with driving the pin out. Put something on the pin that makes it easier to hit with a large hammer.

First I grind a little more of a taper on the leading end of the pin to make it line up a little easier with the bore. Then I start the pin using the "punch" with the deepest hole (about 1/2" hole for a 1/4" pin). Once the "punch" bottoms out on whatever the pin is being driven into, I use a "punch" with a more shallow hole (less than 1/4"). When that one bottoms out, I finish, using a "punch" with no hole at all just a little concave in the end.

Since I've been using these punches/drivers I rarely distort the ends of the pins and they seem to go in much easier.

I've made these in a couple of different lengths, short ones to use on the bench and longer ones to use in areas where you can't reach easily.

As you can see there is nothing special about these "punches" they are nothing more than grade 8 bolts with different size holes bored in the ends but they sure have made a big difference in the ease of removing and installing those often refered to as "pesky spiral pins".

Good idea!:beerchug:

Thanks, great idea. I find a small sledge hammer works better than a wood hammer too. Dave :bash::beatdeadhorse::BangPC:

Great idea, Mark! Thanks for sharing with us.

I still couldnt get it out with the methods above so here is what i ended up doing.

Got a 3/16" carbide tipped drill bit
Used a cut off wheel and cut both pins flush on both sides with the collar
drilled down about 1/4-3/8" on one end of the pin
Used a 3/16" punch that would sit in that hole
Used wooden blocking to hold the drive shaft/collar so the pin would take all of the force of the hammer/punch
Smacked the punch with a 3lb engineers hammer, Pin popped right out

I did the above, that Yosemite Sam posted (used sockets and an extension instead of drilled bolts as my punches had a hex shaped head) as well as used heat and a weeks worth of Liquid Wrench. The final drilling effort is what got it out. My tractor lived the past few years uncovered and outdoors though.