PTO problem
 

In a previous post I discussed how the PO had mucked around with the PTO on my 127. The entire PTO was the wide-frame style except for the pressure spring. The one that was on there was the single spring with the tips of the spring bent over. When I rebuilt the PTO, I went with the correct double set of springs. I adjusted the fingers to the proper settings using the metal gauge. I set the clearance between the steel PTO button and the rock shaft button within spec. After doing some yard work (mowing, pulling a cart) with the PTO mostly engaged but disengaged at times I noticed that the steel button had nearly destroyed the brass button. Well, destroyed probably isn't the correct word. About half of the material is worn off of the brass button and it now has a concave face. Is this PTO setup incompatible with a narrow frame? It seems as though there is tremendous pressure on the PTO when disengaged and this is causing the excessive wear to the brass button. Should I loosen the screws a bit to reduce the pressure necessary to disengage? Should I remove one of the pressure springs and go with just one? Should I swap out the two flat springs and go with the "bent-tab" narrow frame spring? Any help or suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Also, it appears that my rock shaft button is brass but I may be wrong. Should it be brass or bronze. I know bronze is much harder than brass. What about the fiber type button?

You did not say if you had the mower deck mounted (a belt on the pto) when doing the yard work!? :bigthink:

Also, when mowing, the button MUST not touch the pto.

If there is no belt on the pto, the pto MUST be engaged (running) when the engine is on, so the "button" (whatever material it is) is not destroyed. :bigeyes:

The belt acts as a "brake" to save the button.

The button can be either material, AFAIK.

I hope this helps.

Yes. The mower deck was on. I would say that 90% of the time I was mowing (engaged) and the other 10% was pulling a cart (disengaged). I understand how the pto works; it is adjusted properly and the clearance when engaged is adequate.

No luck here either with the brass/bronze buttons. About 15 min. and its junk were a fiber button will last for years. I've rebuilt a few pto's over the years and thought I'd try a new style brass/bronze button. I also had everything set just right. Sucks to see all your work ruined in a few minutes. I still have whats left of the button in my tool box to remind me to not waist my money on new fangled junk again. If brass was the thing to use cub would have had it in there in the first place. Don't you think so? I do! Yes I replaced everything in the pto including the center pin/button, springs, screws, fiber disc, bearing & collar, everything! Needless to say the parts ain't cheep! Nor is my time!!!

So the fiber buttons are original and the brass/bronze came later? Are the fiber ones kinda like the clutch material?

The brass buttons are something that someone decided to shove in there at one time and to my knowledge was something IH never offered. I run a fiber one and knock on wood have not had any problems with it, or significant wear.

Those "carbon fiber" buttons are basically the same material as pencil lead. They wear forever and I like and use them. It's the pressing the stem into the hole in the bar that trouble can arise. Like pencil lead they'll easily break if not inserted properly. I use slip joint pliers to press the stem straight in. An attempt to insert the stem at any kind of angle and you'll be buying a new one that still has the stem.... That said, I'll repeat: I like 'em and use them.

Uh oh. I just ordered the fiber button but wasn't aware of the installation dilemma. I'll try to be very careful. Any other words if advice when installing it?

Because of the serrated grip edges of the slip jaw pliers, I usually place a small flat piece of wood between the button head and the plier nose. The stem will be a tight friction fit and a wee bit will be shaved off as you press it straight in. Press it in till the entire back side of the button head is flush with the lever. Leave a gap and it will break the stem off as soon as you disengage the clutch the first time or two. A little practice and you will get good at it (:-)...