Two dead QL's - similar issues?
 

I haven't spent much time troubleshooting - too cold out for my tastes (all that metal gets cold at zero degrees and below!). But its warming up, and there is still snow to move around (which could arguably be called 'playing in the snow), but that's the point.

The 1450 I believe is a poor electrical connection to the fuse block. I had this issue before and crimping down on the connector seemed to help - for a while - but now its dead again. The tricky part to this one is that its a little tight to just reach down in there and see whats going on. Is there an easy way to gain better access to the wiring?

The 1650 was running great. Then a few intermittent shutdowns, then dead. A new battery doesn't seem to help, and I believe the amp meter is showing negative current draw (took a quick glance just before it quit).

The coil checks out. But it doesn't even click when I hit the switch so either the battery is really dead, or I have a bad connection again.

My questions:

If it wasn't charging and I put in a freshly charged battery, it would run 'for a while' before the battery goes too low and then it quits. Then if the battery is really dead, wouldn't even click when trying to turn it over. Sounds about right??

BUT - I did jump it and still no click. So either a bad connection when jumping - or its something else. I saw a spark when I touched the jumper to it and this suggests its pulling current (maybe too much or too little, but something). So maybe a couple things going on in parallel??

I haven't tested the stator. Where are the wires accessible? And if the stator was bad/shorted, I get that it would pull down the battery at the same time. What should the charge meter read if running with no stator? Pegged, or just a modest draw?

I would guess the voltage regulator doesn't often short (might not regulate, but should it short?). Or maybe if not regulating its the same as having a bad stator - not shorted, but not charging either. Hmm... I know there is a post here on checking this and will try that as well. But again, it should turn over if a charged battery, no?

I will jump directly to the starter and see if this turns. And might also make a jumper directly to the coil - if I do these two, it should at least start and run, confirming these two items are good. Which might point me back to some other wiring connection and/or stator.

Other recommendations? I want to try these in some combination of a) whats easy and b) whats likely the problem. (if its easy to eliminate a cause then why not, even if its unlikely).

Course in the meantime I am going to get that 1450 connection fixed again - is there an easy way to gain better access to the wiring?

(in the meantime I am stuck blowing snow with a regular snow blower, which just seems like a shame.....) :)

First off please understand that I am not a "Quiet Line guy". Not that I think there is anything wrong with them, they just aren't my thing...

As for the issues that you seem to be having, it is and probably always will be my opinion that if you have problems and aren't exactly sure where to start or not exactly sure where the problems lie, then break them down into "bite sized pieces so you can sort out what is good and what is bad.

I also understand that due to the rubber engine mounts, Quiet Line tractors require a ground strap from the engine to the frame.

Start with a fresh hot battery (jumper cables from your car or truck would be great). Pay no attention to anything but getting the engine running. Remove the Pos. wire from the tractor wire loom to the coil and hook a wire from the Positive of whatever you are using to jump the engine, to the Positive on your coil, and then clamp the Neg. jumper directly to the engine. Jump the starter as you normally would.

Once the engine has started, using the wiring diagram for your tractor, found in the Tech. section on this site, and your volt meter, check to see if your stator is making electricity. Not being at all familiar with the Q/L wiring system, I would guess that the easiest way to accomplish this would be to check it at the Pos. wire that you earlier removed from the coil (make sure the key is on when you check this). Someone else can probably give you a better way to check stator voltage, but I think the above should work.

Someone else is going to have to advise you on checking the voltage regulator as I may lead you astray.

After you have determined that the V/R and Stator are in good working order, the only thing left is checking wires, connections and switches.

I can not express enough the importance of using a KNOWN GOOD BATTERY, if you are using a bad or poor battery, you will chase your tail from now until this time next year and still not be any further along than you are now.

I am not able to help you with accessibility of wiring and connections, I fear that this part of the project, is just the nature of the beast.

Good luck.

Link for testing the stator and regulator:http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=368

I rewire completely my 1650 and I still got intermitted power cut to the PTO, I need to change both fuse older, check yours too, you may have a problem there. QL are a real PITA to work under the dash and reach the fuse older! They look like having been design for Chinese small hands :Mad1:

On the 1450 connectors, there is no easy way to get to them. I pulled the wires off and installed an inline fuse holder.

As for the charging system, If I remember correctly with the engine running you should have 48 AC volts when you test between the 2 outside wires on the regulator connector (there should be 3 wires in a row on the plug). If there is no or low voltage the stator or wires from it are bad. I have seen stator winding's corrode in half on Kohlers. They can be rewound, but new ones aren't that expensive. Also look for corrosion on the regulator plug also.

If you pull the metal firewall it makes it easier to get in the cowl. It's only 4 bolts.

i had similar problem on mine, it was the plug that goes to the ignition switch. just pulled it off and ran spade terminals

Thanks for all the great ideas. Will have a chance to chase this tonight so stay tuned, it shouldnt take long to screen the general problem area. (famous last words....) :)

OK - jump the coil and hit it with the jumpers and it starts right up. So that is part of the problem (implies a loose wire).

But I leave it running with the jumper. Runs for a few minutes, then starts cutting out intermittant, then dies. Repeat. The same.

So either the battery is down and not running it (maybe getting below the threshold where it just cuts in/out), or there is another issue that is causing it to die (still seems plausable).

Will recharge the battery and try.

If not successful with that, maybe swap the coil (will steal off the second tractor as a test).

Given that its 'hot wired', what other choices are there for it behaving intermittantly?

A charged battery and with the coil jumper it starts and runs great. The batter positive was unhooked, as was the original coil positive wire.

So I put the switch on and connected the positive to the battery and it shows as charging. BUT - when I touch the coil positive wire the charge meter shows zero.

So with the jumper it charges - but only if the original wire going to the coil positive is disconnected.

But it still runs (with the jumper on).

Time to get out that wiring diagram.

Oh, and where is the voltage regulator physically mounted? It seems possible its either the V/R or the ignition switch.... (the ignition switch I know where is)

(I know, kinda a dumb question and I think I see it but before I go taking something apart it would be good to confirm what it was....)