149 condenser mounting
 

I'm a newbie with a 149. Previous owner did not appear to be big on electrical knowledge. The battery was installed with polarity reversed which I assume was responsible for regulator failure and all the battery electrolyte boiling away.
Anyone have a regulator for sale?

It was also fitted with a coil marked "12V" "external resister required", mounted using a bracket with mounting holes too wide to engage both coil mounting holes on the engine and with condenser mounted to the unbolted coil clamp bracket ear with a hose clamp. I assume the lack of a resister and/or improperly grounded condenser is what caused the points to fail completely. I see ICC coils for sale on eBay but not all appear to have a provision for the condenser mounting on the coil mount bracket. I can imagine this part might have had limited usage due to its requiring the coil mounting bracket to be properly grounded. On the other hand, I notice the new condenser I just purchased is not intended for mounting on a flat surface such a under a coil mounting bracket bolt (and the hole is too small to boot) but appears it would be suitable for mounting on a coil mounting bracket incorporating the little tab intended for condenser mounting.

Is there someone here who knows the correct condenser mounting for the 149?

Anyone have a proper coil (I assume with internal resister) and bracket for sale?

Your information is sought and good information will be appreciated.

Here are the correct parts for your 149. They can be had at your local Cub Cadet, Case-IH, or Kohler Dealer(s). If that is not practical, then our sponsors above would be more than willing to help you out.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...e.png~original

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...3.png~original

This is the original mounting location....Look at items 4 & 6

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...1.png~original

Roland, thank you very much for the very detailed information. I thought the safest thing to do to insure coil/bracket fit was to buy a used one from a Cub Cadet on ebay which I did. I am unsure what model it actually was fitted on originally but it fits the 149 engine. It has the tab on the coil mounting bracket which presumably is for condenser mounting-it certainly fits nicely there. Only trick with that deal is insuring a good ground for the coil mounting bracket on which the condenser depends when mounted in this fashion. I mounted the coil according to your photo and it looks the same with the exception of the condenser mounting.

I now have to figure out how to mount the regulator I also purchased on ebay. My 149 has a shock mount which is not included with the replacement
regulator. It is not obvious to me yet whether I can separate the original shock mount provisions and use it/them with the new regulator. You probably know about that as well.

I no sooner had the ignition system back together with new points, condenser and used coil when the starter/generator system failed (no, I did not overheat it). Did not have a VOM at the barn to run it down or even check for voltage at the starter/generator. I may be in the market for another starter/generator. I wonder if it also was a casualty of the battery being installed with the polarity reversed by the previous owner. After the battery polarity was corrected, it started fine for a dozen or so starts total over a period of months before failing to make a click with a hot battery. Sudden failure same as the points and only separated from point failure by one or two starts.

First, make sure the safety interlock switches for the PTO and the clutch/brake pedal are working, if they don't close, the ignition circuit is disabled. The clutch pedal switch is underneath the tunnel cover and is actuated by a spring lever attached to the clutch pedal/brake shaft. Short the two wires together to eliminate the switch if it's bad. The PTO switch is similar, but inside the dash tower. (some don't have the PTO safety switch--my 149 doesn't but my 108 does).

Since the starter worked after the battery was fixed, I'd guess it's still fine. To test it, use a pair of jumper cables from the battery directly to the starter (Pos on the Positive terminal (large wire post) and negative to a good ground. If this turns the starter over, then work backwards to the starter relay and then the ignition switch, both under the dash.