Changing crank oil seal on 86 CUB (lots of pictures)
 

As I read some post on OCC today I realized I need to get my butt in gear and dig into this front oil seal change out on the new 86. I was dreading this as it was really dirty and oily. But I had the seal so here is the play by play.

****Word of warning: Usually these do not come apart this easy!*****

The seal had actually come out of the engine and oil had been spewing forth for some time. Hoping that the engine is OK. It started and I pulled it in the more warm than outside garage.
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Here is where the action starts:
Pull the grill and hood, four bolts. I cut the wire to the lights and will splice that back when the grill and hood go back on.
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First causality, took the adjusting bolt out of the S/G , lifted the arm coming from the block and the bolt in the pivot point snapped off flush with the block!
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01109.jpg

Dip stick needed attention next as the handle was passing through the cap. Some well placed taps with a punch and this was now back to where it wont push through the cap.
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Fan belt has seen better days
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starting to remove grill and hood.
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blade and hood are going to have to be removed. Cut the light wire.
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Quick picture to make sure I get the blade back on in the correct location. Haven't had a wide frame before.
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continued in next posts

Continued:

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Power take off has small set screws at three locations with two screws at each location.
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PTO clutch is removed.
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Bearing for the PTO has a crack and piece missing. it will have to be replaced.
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The lock ring has one set screw. Take it all the way out.
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With a punch find the hole in the ring and tap clock wise when standing in front of the tractor. This ring is eccentric and will loosen to allow the bearing to be removed.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01127.jpg

A small two jaw puller will fit in the space to pull the bearing after the lock collar is loose.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01128.jpg

continued in next post.

continued:
Locking collar and bearing.
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Next is the set screws for the pulley. There is a set screw over the square key and another on the shaft.
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With the set screws removed I gently punch the key through the pulley. On some engines you may not have enough room to do this?
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A very gently taps and the pulley slides off the shaft. I did use some emery paper to clean the shaft.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01135.jpg

Ok we are almost ready for the seal.
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The seal was back in the engine for some reason? Turned the engine over and the air pressure pushed it back out and I used a knife to get it out.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01140.jpg

Continued in next post.

Continued:
New seal had grease on the I.D. and is placed in the engine opening after cleaning out the engine and shaft.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01141.jpg

Speaking of cleaning this was really bad and I did do some clean up. after the seal was in place. I was soaking the grease with purple power as I worked on the seal installation.

I used a heavy metal ring and light hammer to tap the seal flush with the outside of the block.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01143.jpg

Pulled the air cleaner and the filter was junk.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01144.jpg

some cleaning of the engine compartment.
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http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01146.jpg

Wiped down most of the tractor to remove accumulated grease.No its not going to get restored just repaired and used.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01147.jpg

Time to get that broken bolt out of the block. at the pivot point for the S/G bracket. Center punched the broken part. Drilled small hole into the bolt. Good news the screw moved right in to the block. Got a small easy out in the hole and the broken part came right out. This entire engine area was wel lubricated!
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01148.jpg

Enough cleaning , cant have it look too good. Starting to reassemble parts.
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New belt, filter and grade 5 bolt
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Pulley, key and set screws in place. belt and SG tightened.
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Continued in next post.

This should be it:)

The steering wheel was loose right below the plastic wheel. I found that the plastic spacer had move up out of the sterring shaft housing. I was able to get this back down into the housing and it tightened up the steering wheel considerably.
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Changed the engine oil, added some fresh gas, and some sea foam to the tank, and fired it up.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...6/DSC01154.jpg

I will get a new bearing for the PTO next week and then re assemble the PTO and the grill. This tractor drives like it has power steering! I also like the long throw of the shifter. Going to see If I can find a good used seat to replace the crusty one too.

No oil leaks, at least from that end of the tractor now, and its clean enough I could work with it again.

Hope this helps someone that has not taken one of these apart before.

Regards,
Chris

Very informative step by step Chris. I always like as well I'm sure others do, this type of post because it helps people see exactly how to do something close up.

I'm wondering why your old seal had so much movement? I'm assuming the new one is ok and tighter? Btw, what length belt did you get?

Awesome post. It cleaned up nicely. :beerchug: Glad the PTO basket and pulley came off so easy. I always end up drilling two holes 180 degrees from each other thru the pulley and basket to use a 2 point puller to get it off with. I never thought about driving the key back towards the engine.

You've been busy, Chris! Thanks for the pics.

Good work Chris.
You got lucky on the pto pulley and the broken off bolt.
Now about that pto rod...

Nice work there Mr Chris, how easy did the seal slide into the block? The reason I ask is all the engine guys around here put a little sealer around the out side edge to help hold it to the block! That's what we did when we replaced the seals on dad's twin 20 horse.