Creeper install question?
 

I'm installing a creeper on my 1200. I need to remove and cut drive shaft. Can anyone help with that. I have the tunnel cover off and am having a hard time removing the drive shaft. My hope is that I can remove the drive shaft without splitting the tractor.

There is a spring over the shaft held with a drift pin and washer putting tension back towards the transmission. Does this spring need to be removed?

Thanks

You have to either remove the motor or pull the trans. You can't get it out any other way..... so YES, you have to split the tractor.

The drive shaft should have a score mark on it and a second hole for the creeper. Cut it on the line. No, don't drive that pin out, that spring is the clutch spring. If you drive it out, you'll be sorry you did. :Poof:

You can get it out without removing the engine. I just did this on my 1000. You do need to remove the pivoting mount for the clutch arm. You need to push it forward toward the engine. Also removing both of the rear flex disk mounts help with room also. Once its free from the rear input shaft you can finagle it out through the tunnel. Area .

Be sure to support the driveshaft couplers when driving the pins out.
Remove the pins from both rear couplers and slide them forward on the shaft.
The assly will pick right out with some wiggling.

If it were my Cub, I would pull the engine at this time to freshen up the engine compt and inspect/replace as needed ISO mounts and anything else in there , like steering gear, that may need attn', but, that's just me.
. You will have to support the front end by the frame so the axle can pivot and remove the front wheels to gain access to the front 2 engine mount bolts.

Good luck!

I usually loosen the engine and slide it forward. You can also loosen up the rear coupler and front and should be able to just work things out like Dave said. A lot easier than pulling the rearend.

Cut mark on drive shaft
 

So I have pulled the drive shaft, your right no need to split the tranny off. The drive shaft has been painted and i don't see a mark for the cut length. Does anyone know the measurement? Also there is only one hole for a drift pin, shouldn't there be two holes for the "rag connection", one on each side of the rags?

Its possible somebody has replaced the shaft with one they made. Is it possible to get us a picture just to make sure? It may take me a day or two to find it but I have a creeper shaft I could measure for you

I know it is not the right thing to do BUT, when I put the creeper in my 128, I left everything hooked up, took the tunnel cover off, started the engine, idled it way down, and held a hacksaw on the shaft until it cut itself through.

I then drove the rear pin out and slid the back part of the shaft and the coupler off of the transmission input shaft.

I put it back together in the reverse order, I slid the coupler over the shaft and once the creeper was installed, I slid the coupler toward the rear, lined up the holes in the shafts and coupler and drove the new pins in.

The mark on the shaft should be about 4 3/4" from the back end of the shaft.

thanks
 

Yosemite thats awesome i wish i would have thought of doing just that but the shaft is out already so its going in my vice. I'd say thats not redneck way to do things THATS Hillbilly Way! Wish me luck with the hacksaw, i just don't want to cut it to short and have to pull all they stuff off the other end and buy a new shaft. Thanks again:BangPC:

[QUOTE=Yosemite Sam;255411]I know it is not the right thing to do BUT, when I put the creeper in my 128, I left everything hooked up, took the tunnel cover off, started the engine, idled it way down, and held a hacksaw on the shaft until it cut itself through.

WOW! You live life on the edge, YS. Last time I cut a shaft by putting it in a drill press and holding a hacksaw against the shaft, I was extremely lucky I only got bruised up. Had the cutoff part of the shaft not hit me sideways, I might not be typing this from this world.:Shocked: