Need some opinions/parts help
 

Here goes: I've gotten to the point with my Cubs where I want to simplify a bit. I know my modest "collection" of 3 Cubs doesn't seem to need simplifying but with the time, money, and space lift has granted me, it makes sense. It all comes down to I can take care of 2 tractors more properly and thoroughly than I can 3. Right now I've got 2 1811's (one with about 800 hours, the other just shy of 700) and a 1450 with unknown hours. The 1450 has hydraulics and a rear lift with a tiller and neither of the 1811's have a rear lift, but one has the rear plate (for the bagger, I can post a pic if anyone wants).

What I would like to do is sell the 1450 and use the money to put a sleeve hitch on one of the 1811's. The only thing stopping me from doing that is making the tiller I have work with it. I talked a bit to J-Mech and he said with that rear plate, it would be an easy conversion to make the tiller fit the 1811, just mount the gearbox to the plate and install a sleeve hitch. My question is this: what would I need to order to get a sleeve hitch installed on my 1811?

I really only want to sell the 1450 for as much as I'd need to get the sleeve hitch on the 1811. I don't believe they still sell the upper casting but that's where you guys come in. So, what do I need? Is is still available online or would I need to wait for the parts to become available on eBay or something like that? Thanks guys! :beerchug:

xtrememotorworks.com has the lift bar and the lower 2 point, http://xtrememotorworks.com/Parts%20...rts%20List.htm
myself or someone else here will have the upper rock shaft and frankenstein bolts, and it sounds like you will have the lower part covered with the plate. You will also need a mule drive dedicated to the tiller and change out the gearbox pulley with one that will use a 5/8" belt. I do believe that is what the PTO pulley on the 1811 requires.

Here is a pic of my former 782 with the parts needed.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...82/lifta-1.jpg

Ryan, you know you can use the sleeve hitch from the 1450 right? You just need a different lift bar. Extrememotorworks sells them for $46. You won't need the lower bracket because it's built into the tiller gear box mounting. Soooooo all you need is the NLA bracket for the 3pt adapter (which I can make) a longer belt, ($70) wider pulley on bottom (e-bay I got one for $45) change the idlers on the mule drive. ($15 a piece at most). Only price I'm not sure of is how much to make the adapter. Last one I made, I want to change, but I used steel I already had.

I'm going to edit this:
You or someone needs to confirm what size a belt the 1450 used. See what you have running the tiller now, because I went and checked my 1250 and the 5/8" belt will fit the PTO on it. I suppose it's possible that it is running the wider belt already.

Awesome pic/info, thank you! :beerchug:

Doh!!! :Forgot: I should have known that, I did know that, but it didn't cross my mind. I tend to over complicate things from time to time :biggrin2: So it looks like the NLA bracket is the only thing standing the way then. I know I'd have to buy a belt, pulley, and I have an extra mule drive I can dedicate to the task. As for what's on it now, it's not a 5/8 setup. BTW, thank you sir :beerchug:

Looks like after I get my garden done this weekend, I may have to put the 1450 up on Craigslist, that'll give me about a year to get this setup together :biggrin2:

You can use the mule drive off the 1450 too. Just have to change the pulleys.

One of those NLA brackets was for sale NOS on e-bay a while back. I posted a link to it. I probably should have bought it, but I had already made my own, so I didn't. Jut posted the link on here and went on.

Am I correct in saying that a 1450 has a manual clutch and an 1811 has an electric clutch? If so, I believe the mule drive is also different in the exact positioning of the pivot point for the pulleys. The belt drops down a little further forward in relation to the main frame of the tractor on the 1811 VS. the 1450. I don't believe the mule drive from the 1450 will work on the 1811. I stand to be corrected if wrong, but that is what my understanding is.

1450 has an electric clutch.

Bill

If ya have money burning a hole in your pocket you could dress one of the 1811's up with pwr steering! Lol just me dreaming. Good luck with your project!

A 1450 and an 1811 both have electric PTO's. The mule drives are the same. Electric or manual clutch doesn't change anything. You can switch mule drive from a 129 to an 1811. Wide frame is a wide frame. I'm not really sure why you think it would be different. (Now, the belt sizes are different, as I stated, so the pulleys have to be changed.) The pivot point is adjustable, that's how it keeps the belt tight. If you look I think you will find that the belt is seldom perfectly aligned with the PTO. It's a belt, it's not fussy. Think about how much out of align the belt runs when it's powering a deck, from the lower most position to the upper most position. :bigeyes::bigeyes: It will work. :beerchug:

I understand that the belts never run just perfectly in line and I know that the pulleys move to tension the belt. However, I have observed two different mule drives. On mine the latch pin that holds it on is also the same pin that the idler pulleys pivot arms attach to and the pin is held I with cotter keys. Some of the newer mule drives just had little pins, maybe 2 inches long for the latch pins and the rod for the idler arms to pivot on are a little farther forward, effectively placing the pulleys a little farther forward. Both the latch pins and the idler pivot pin were welded in. I looked it up on Cub Cadet's web site. The 1450 takes a hanger number 59681-C1 and the 1811 takes a hanger number 703-0096. Compare pics. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-12...item56648f5eec http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-12...item23398e52eb
I see now that it has nothing to do with the electric clutch or the manual clutch. I must say that Cub Cadets are not that popular down here in GA, so I can't say that I've been able to compare closely a 1450 with an 1811. I suppose that you could just swing the arms a little farther, but my research says that the mule drives are different.