Steering column rebuild
 

I'm in the process of doing a complete restore of my 126 and will have lots of questions in the next few months.
I'm rebuilding the steering column and plan on doing the thrust bearing upgrade.
My first question is on my steering column that I may have destoyed. I tried using a puller as in the first picture and the wheel didn't move even after I heated it and destroyed the wheel:censored:. Then I used the trick in the tech section and it did come off. My question is. Can I use this shaft with only a few threads on it?
The 2nd question. Can I dress the cam up in the drill press or should it be replaced with a new or can you make one with a cut off bolt?
Then I have a question on the grease seal. Do you have to buy these or can you make them from some type of material?
I'm sure I'll have many more questions in the next few weeks. Thanks.

All very good questions Oak,

As long as there is enough thread left on the center shaft to get a nut to snug down, then you're good to go. If there isn't enough thread on the center shaft you could, drill and tap the inside then use large flat washers (5/8" I believe) around the outside of the shaft to "build up" the steering wheel so a bolt and washer can hold the wheel in place.

There are many ways to "fix" the cam follower, you can make one out of a grade 8 bolt, you can "dress up" the one you have, or you can use your old one "as is" making sure that when the column is put back together the "unused" sides of the follower are turned so that they are "riding" in the "wear" position.

I have cut and used cork gasket (in a pinch) as a seal (I used contact cement to hold it to the tin) successfully.

However... Before you spend a ton of time making/repairing parts, try going to your local JD dealer, tell them you have a JD 110 and ask for prices on the parts you need. The parts (Cub Cadet & JD) are all supplied by "Ross" (as you should be able to see embossed on the side of your gear box) and they are (for whatever reason) less expensive from JD.

Thanks Yosemite. Here is a picture of the threads that are left on the column.

Yeah, that doesn't look too bad, clean it up a little and as long as the nut will "snug" down (it doesnt have to be really tight, just enough to keep the wheel from "working" back and forth) and you should be good to go. Depending on how the threads look in the nut you may want to put a new one on it.

Oak-

I am like YoSam and have made the gasket out of cork. I glued it to the tin part with permatex. Also, while you have it apart put your grease gun on the zerk and push out the old grease in the hole it travels. I've found chunks of hardened grease here and you will just push it it when you do a final grease job. Old grease needs to be scraped out of the channels too. A dental pick is good for this. I also just dress the cam follower in a drill press with a grinder. It's pretty easy to follow the angle with your eye. When you're done, you may need to take some off of the nose of the follower as well. The length and width work together in the worm gear. While it's in the drill press you can smooth it out with some sandpaper. It's a good idea to check the lever and bolt assembly for flatness. Put a straight edge on it and make sure it's as flat as possible. This part is thought to have warped some from the factory weld when installing the bolt. The flatness is important for a good seal. I've had to straighten out several and a press helps. Make sure the ball bearings are good and round. They aren't that expensive and good ones make a big difference.

Good luck!

I purchased my parts from the local IH dealer. I opted to put a wheel bearing in the top of the tube instead of a bushing. I also found where you can buy the little ball bearings as a kit, much cheaper than buying the part #'s associated with yours: IH-71930-C91 (about $10 total instead of $30+).

I haven't got mine back together yet, just got the parts today. I also ordered the pin and I'm waiting on a thrust bearing and washers to do the super upgrade you read about. I had my local bearing supplier oredr it for $3.48 and the local Grainger get me the thrust washers for $.96 each. Much better than the $16 - $25 to order it online.

You can see my new column here: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...3184#post23184