2150 Loses Power...Clutch going bad...I suppose?
 

This seems like the standard problem where the engine gets hotter and then the tractor has very little power, especially going up inclines. The motor seems strong. I have seen this on several posts and the response is that it isn't too hard to replace the clutch (I hope) which is probably what the problem is, but I haven't seen where information is given so that I can do it myself, or see if I can. The 2150 is one of those that has the clutch that seems to work like the accelerator in a car, but from the posts here, that is a bad thing to do as it burns out the clutch. I just bought this and it seems to be in great shape except for this. Anyway... many thanks to anyone who can direct me to the information.
Also, where can I find an ignition key. A suitcase key is being used to start it now.

Clutch replacement
 

This is a very easy job to do. I have replaced mine once already and it is pretty straight forward. First remove the muffler assembly. You will need to do this to get the old clutch off and the new one on. Start by removing the complete front end of the tractor, sides, hood and grill. Remove the muffler assembly. Disconnect the electrical connection to the clutch. Remove the center bolt from the clutch assembly, then use a pulley puller(can be rented at a tool rental shop) to pull the clutch assembly off of the shaft.

Reverse the above for assembly, but first put anti-lock grease on the clutch shaft to aid in future replacement!

I got the replacement clutch @ Pats Small Engine Plus. You can Google for his site.

The clutch itself cost $122.90 plus shipping.

It is the exact clutch you would receive if you order through a cub cadet dealer at a substantial discount. I have not had a problem with this new clutch.

It is the exact clutch you would receive if you order through a cub cadet dealer at a substantial discount. I have not had a problem with this new clutch

I could be wrong but I don't think he's talking about the PTO clutch!

:Welcome2::Cub2:

PTO CLutch
 

My 2150 acted exactly as he describes. That PTO clutch gets so hot it will actually shut the engine down if it is not replaced.

That is what happened to mine, loss of power, excessive heat and finally melting wires to the PTO.

The cadet shop I deal with said this is a common problem on model 2150 because there is no cooling apparatus for the PTO. What happens is the bearing go out first but the PTO will continue to work but with excessive heat which is transferred by the shaft directly into the engine causing an over heat condition which in turn causes the loss of power.

Now if it is the clutch in the differential going bad the chances of the machine even moving when pressure is applied to the pedal is slim to none since this is the driving mechanism of the machine and will not cause a loss of power at all. He also maybe mistaking what he calls loss of power for the gearing in this model. The first 3 gears are for using attachments like a tiler, snow blower and other attachments that require super slow movement. First gear in mine is so low that the machine barely moves because it is a creeper gear just as second and third.

Thank you so much, Jake, for the information, especially since you had the same problem with a 2150. I will give it a shot.:beerchug:

Need more info on this
 

I found this while searching the forum for a problem with my 2150. Thought I'd throw my problem out here and see if anybody has some advice.

I also bought a used AGS2150 and most everything seems well except that after a couple mowings, it has suddenly developed a problem in locomotion. Motor is fine. The tractor will now only barely pull itself forward in any gear, and especially in 5th or 6th. Reverse seems to be mostly OK, but does lurch or chug a little.

This is not an engine power problem and doesn't involve mowing in any way. I checked fluid level in transmission and it's right on the mark. Looks clean (clear) with no burnt smell at all.

One additional note. When problem first began, the tractor would drive across level ground OK, then slow when turning or attempting to climb up inclines. Only a couple hours later, it would no longer climb any incline at all.

Any help greatly appreciated.

I think this is a common problem with the auto gear system (AGS). People use the foot pedal like a hydro tractor and burn the clutch out of it. The pedal should be full down or up and not used to control the speed of the tractor. I think you may be in for a rebuild.

Ouch!
 

Thanks for the reply. I was just over at cubcadet.com checking the parts for the clutch discs, etc. OUCH! Looks like a rebuild on the clutch will be kinda pricey! :crap:

Might be good news!
 

I just bought an HDS2185 tractor. No hood, side panels, or front end. Tractor was parked a couple months ago because of various electrical problems. WHAT A MESS! Toggle switches added here and there, wires taped together, etc,,,etc,,. Has what appears to be a fairly good 48" deck under it. Previous owner said it ran good and pulled itself fine until the electrical mess caused it's demise.

I've looked at all the part numbers for the hydro for the 2185 versus a 2155 (same tractor as 2150) and it appears it's a matter of swapping the two trannys. Also appears that the 48" deck will go under the 2150 since all implement lift and hanger part numbers match.

I'm not sure I like the way the deck wheels are mounted on the deck. Looks to me like the front wheels would interfere with trying to mow/trim close. I guess I could address that later.

Kohler motor is supposedly good except for the electrical mess. Might be a worthwhile winter project to do a minor rebuild. I'm considering the motor to be gravy since I really just need the tranny. And for $50, I figure I didn't get hurt. Now to get it home and get to work,,,,,,,