Spindle Roller Bearing Endplay
 

Hello. Today I was working on a deck that my SIL recently purchased. The bolt holding the pulley on the center spindle was loose. I snugged the bolt down and the shaft would not turn. Well we need some shims, but how many? I could not find in the manuals how much endplay the spindles should have, so I hit the web and found this on the Timken site. The info is for the old car front axles, but the dims. are right for deck spindles. I hope this helps someone besides myself.

To adjust the setting of this bearing:

Step 1: Tighten the nut while
turning the hub. When there is
a slight bind on the bearing, the
parts are seated correctly.

Step 2: Back the nut off 1/6 to
1/4 of a turn or sufficiently to
allow .001” to .007“ end play.

Note: Failure to back off adjusting
nut could cause bearing to run
hot and be damaged. Wheel
could lock or separate.

Richard

There should be NO end-play. Bearing should be slightly loaded.

That works for wheel bearings, but deck bearings are spaced between the cones
in the spindle housing.
it is a pre determined length spacer.
possibly it worn shorter or was lost/forgotten/ omitted
You have to tighten the nuts tight or the blade will slip and come off.
You need to take the spindle apart and see what is wrong.
I am assuming you are working on the later style taper bearing spindle.
but that is just a guess.

Should be no play.........but what deck are you working on? :Huh:

I agree, but have seen instances when bearings were replaced and the difference in manufacturer made it too tight. I will never understand why they didn't make it with shims like on a pinion shaft in a differential. I just make my own shims if necessary.

BTDT more than once !! :beerchug:
Usually I just cut a new longer spacer in the lathe and/or put it on the surface grinder,
I don't like thin shims on spindles.

The deck is a 482U-1112 and I think the spacer has been hammered shorter by the loose pulley. Have not spent a lot of time on it yet. I would think that for all practical purposes, .001" would be considered no play. I will probably make a new one on the lathe when I get to it.

Same problem with a 482U-112
 

I had the same problem. If I tightened the nut, the mandrel would not turn. If I backed the nut off a little bit, the mandrel would turn. But that seemed unsafe. So I took it apart, and took it to a dealer. They told me that mine had been converted to a new style assembly. I also bought the two new Timken tapered roller bearings and two lip seals. The other parts appeared to be fine to both me and the dealer. I'm not sure it was assembled properly when I bought it. Can anyone provide advice on where to find a manual and an exploded parts drawing - particularly for the mandrel assembly. Thanks.

Here's a link to Partstree diagram. http://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-c...ades-spindles/
Good luck.