replacing seals in SGT power steering
 

hi,,new guy here,,i have a 2086 with power steering,,when i finished mowing yesterday i noticed that there was fluid dripping from beneath the tractor.. after some wiping i found what appears to be a leak on the power steering box (the thing on the bottom of the steering shaft that all the lines hook to). has any one ever torn one of these apart to put new seals or orings? if so are any special tools required, or any special things i need to watch out for? thanks for your trouble,,don

I have not done this, but I do know that it's a fairly complex process. You MUST have the service manual to do this. I couldn't find a link to an electronic copy of it. Perhaps someone else has a link?

Not the service manual, but a exploded view of the internals.


http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=c...&dn=0035900006



JOE

As Matt says you MUST have the manual....something like 9 pages of step-by-step.

Scott

First I would check to see if it is not something simple like a loose hose fitting.
Then if it is more complicated like it is leaking from the top sections. or between them,
then a kit is in order,
Parker is the supplier, and cub cadet buys their seal kits from them,
Charging $100.00
Of course John Deere sells the same parker seal kit for $70.00 # AM107078.
(Today’s price from J.D. online)
That is if you are not too superstitious to purchase from brand x store. Ha,LOL!

I have been into those steering units and had successful results but it ain't for the novice!! And it is imperative you have the instructions to do it. CORRECTLY the first time
There is a port manifold and valve plate that can go either way and only one way will work.
Also there is 6 springs, 3 small and 3 a bit longer/larger that are ever so slightly different but have to be installed correctly and they like to fly in many hidden directions in the shop.
The kit comes with directions but it isn’t detailed enough for the average tinker.
Maybe somebody will chime in here as I have seen the service procedure on the net maybe in the super service manual but my memory fails me now, if you choose to take the plunge.
edit, Here is the link
http://www.me.umn.edu/courses/me4232/Lab/lab_14_hgf.pdf

oh and J.d. can get most of the parts that cub cadet says are not avail. like the flying springs, Ha,LOL!

I talked to several people about mine. The general consensus was that even when you know what you are doing it doesn't always work well after a rebuild. A new one is about$700+ I bought a nice used on from a cub salvage guy for less than 1/2 that. I have the manual and it's a pretty complex procedure. I may eventually try rebuilding the old one. http://www.binderbooks.com/ can supply the manual.

i just read the whole manual from the link above, and i will tell ya what....its far more complexed than i thought it would be. i think im going to try it in the future, but first im going to try to find a suitable replacement(in case i fail miserably,lol),i would like to thank everyone for responding,and i would luv to here from anyone else who has any knowledge about this procedure...

Yea that is kinda what I mentioned, it’s a little complex, and the highly detailed assembly instructions make it appear more complex than it is.
----- Check good, as sometimes it is a loose fitting. spray the gear off with a cleaner of choice, like kerosine or brake cleaner etc. then find where it is comming from, it just might be simple!!
If it is the hydro gear leaking, usually it is the face seal or the through bolts worked loose and the o rings are leaking between the segments.
There are short cuts, like the rotor assembly usually doesn’t need disassembled after taking the unit apart, if you keep it clean.

The hydro unit ain’t rocket science, but you have to be patient and go step by step and assume nothing.
Keeping everything hygienically clean and not using rags. compressed air is the best cleaner and use assembly lube (vasoline works) on the o rings.
it is not as complex as rebuilding an automatic transmission.

Vasoline will disolve in oils like hyd oil or Dextron, it is a distillate, whereas wheel bearing grease is a soap base and it will not mix with oils. When I rebuilt auto trannys Vasoline is all I would use.

I prefer trans gel myself ,
but most folks don't have it that is why I suggested vasoline. :ThumbsUp: