The Super 1572
 

I decided it was finally time that the 1572 got some much needed attention so I can use it for more than mowing the grass. I want to get this tractor set-up to pull a 4ft box plate so I can groom some trails I have and also do some work in my lower driveway.

I got my Tru Powers and 12x10.5 rims ordered today for a start. Next I need to get a Ruegg 3pt ordered.

Below are the links to the rim blanks and centers I ordered. I feel like I am more than capable to weld these together and it was worth it to me to save some money that I can invest in other areas. The other thing I like about this route is I can set the backspace to whatever I want. I need to experiment and see what will work best.

http://www.millertire.com/products/w...n/12x10-5-rim/

http://www.millertire.com/products/w...2-rims-convex/

Has anybody gone this route or welded a set of wheels like this? Just looking for some tips and tricks before I start.

I had Xtreme build my wheels, this is the back spacing I had them welded at. This put's 1" of the additional rim width inboard and 1" outboard.

This is what I want to try. I don't want them to stick out to far because I'm planning on a 42" hydraulic tiller and a 4ft box plate. I would like to try to keep the outside of the tires less than 42" so I don't have to offset the tiller.

I priced the wheels at Xtreme and the blanks from Miller. Going with the blanks saves $84 on the shipped price. If you were not a capable welder, having the wheels done by Xtreme would be the way to go, for sure.

Sounds like you have I good idea what you want. I just took a few measurements on my 1772 with the the rims like Sam had made, it's right at 42". I don't think i would go less, the front is about 42 anyways and you would have to keep an implement or spring on the lift arms to keep them from hitting the tires. Welding the centers isn't too bad, run a straight edge across the rim and measure to the four corners of the center, once you get them all the same tack them and double check the measurements. Oh, be sure the three point rockshaft isn't hitting the fuel tank in the full down position, I had some small issues with that.

Thanks for the measurement on the rear. That sounds like it's right where I want to be. I will also have to watch out for that issue you had with tank clearance.

I also have a new dash I have to get installed. I bought it last winter and just never got around to getting it on. Should be an easy job once I get the steering wheel off.

The main reason I went with new wheels is so I can keep my turfs and chains mounted for winter use. I already have those loaded and I really didn't want to break them down.

Yesterday I got my new wheels and tires. Today I plan to weld them up and get them painted.

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/...psmqltg9oo.jpg

I got the centers in at 1 5/8" backspace and mounted them on the tractor so I could spin them and check them for out of round. I got one down to .010 and the other down to .005. The rest is just the fact that the hoops aren't any more round then that.

http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/...psx4vqdrcu.jpg

Nice work!:beerchug:

I like the idea of using a dial indicator with the center mounted on the axle. Makes the wheel run true to the axle.
Do the centers fit tight enough in the wheel so they stay put when you remove them to weld?

They are a tight fit. I had to beat them around with a hammer to move them even when I had them mounted to the axle. I didn't know if it would make a difference so I also torqued all the lugs.

Using a dial indicator may be just a bit of over kill, don't think you can get a factory wheel that is even close to that. Killer job. Sometime if you have nothing better to do it would be interesting to see how bad the factory stuff is. :beerchug: